so the crack runs side to side at the bending part of the sole?

does the sole flex there? some do - some are so rigid they don't.

i'm not sure anything short of a new sole would repair it if it constantly flexes there. if it's rigid i think you have a chance..

good luck.

I agree with Schwert.

Barge is what I use when it has to stick. I bought mine from the Local saddle maker, It is the only glue that he uses.

Hi bsmith,

The boots are Danner Striker GTX, they are very light and comfortable but the sole is molded onto the upper and is not replaceable (the warranty is also long over). I split the sole across the ball of the foot where it flexes most, it will be a near impossible repair but I think it will be an excellent test of Shoegoo.

I now wear Danner boots with stichdown soles that can be repaired, they are heavier and more expensive but excellent boots overall.

I will post how the repair works out.

Mike

hi mike,

the boss says use barge.

incredibly strong, incredibly flexible, and the other guys are right - it's the stuff to use.

it's what shoemakers use - and they should know.

bummer about the crack, though.

bsmith

I have used both Gorilla Glue and Goop to fix shoes.

The only time I saw the gorilla glue fail was when I failed to properly prepare the mating surfaces. One time I didn't remove the original glue but any way or varnish used during manufacture will also stop a prevent a proper bond.

Usually I scrub the surfaces with a nylon dish scrubber wet with lacquer thinner to remove and coatings. Then I follow with 60 grit sandpaper, a very rough stone in a drill for larger areas and/or scraping with the edge of a knife. Immaculately clean and well roughened leather tend to stay together quite well no matter what glue you use.

Gorilla glue is good, particularly if you dampen the surfaces and clamp the joint. Urethanes harden by absorbing moisture. Goop is also good but sometimes in a couple of years it hardens and pulls off. When I was using silicone caulk at work I would sometimes use the dregs we would otherwise toss to glue up my work boots. Seemed to work well.

Trick is to let any excess or squeeze-out harden and trim off with a razor blade afterward. Same with the gorilla glue.

As long as I well and throughly prepared the mating surfaces. But, like I said, prep the surfaces well and the brand of glue used is far less important.