I believe I saw someone's kit have a pice of a hacksaw blade, so I am, now, considering this. It looks like the longest length that could fit is approx 3-5/8".

But, what kind of blade? Just within one brand, Buck Bros., I found 3 different grades (economy, professional & bi-metal) and each has 3 different Teeth/inch (18,24,32).

This PSK is only used for urban carry. What thoughts do others have on this, please? In this case, it doesn't seem money will be an issue since they were all only a few dollars.

Thank you!
Xavier - Phx, AZ

My thought, esp for an urban PSK, is the 32tpi. 1) less "push" or "pull" required - teeth take smaller bites (slower cutting, but you don't have a frame or handle) 2) more useable for cutting thin metal - one usually wants to have at least 1 1/2 teeth "in" the cut 3) will still make fine cuts in small diameter wood, such as notches for a figure 4 trigger

It's not long enough to be significant for cutting firewood and even 18 tpi is slow compared to even a multi-tool or SAK knife.

As far as the type - bimetal are best, but a good quality carbon or tool steel might be a bit more useful in a PSK. Cost IS a reflection of blade quality in hacksaw and band saw blades.

You will need to abrasively "cut" a piece out of the blade - a bench grinder is simple or a cut-off wheel in an electric or pneumatic "die grinder" (Dremel tool). The edge of a whetstone will do, as will the edge of a concrete stoop (both slow). You can easily sharpen any portion of the blade as well - good steel with a good temper EXCEPT bimetal blades have "softer" bodies to resist breaking - hence my earlier suggestion that for a PSK a carbon or tool steel blade might be best.

Just my 2 cents worth

Tom

One important use of your hacksaw blade might be as a steel for flint-and-steel firemaking. Several of the commercial MFS sets I've seen have "hacksaw blades" without any teeth at all.

So as well as the optimum number of teeth, you might want to consider the firemaking capabilities of each type of blade. Sounds like an experiment waiting to happen.

I also recommend the carbon blades with 32 teeth/inch. It´s easier to handle. The bi-metal blades last longer in normal use, but with a small piece for infrequent use you won´t have a real benefit.
When you sharpen the blade for cutting, it´s best to take one of the ends. Make sure that the teeth point to the sharpened end. That way you can push for cutting. I don´t recommend to sharpen the long edge oposite to the teeth. That would be begging for nasty cuts in your fingers.

It depends on how you think you might use the blade.

I carry one in my kit to shave, scrape, carve fillings off the MFS. The fewer teeth saw blade makes larger shavings and a pile quicker. Basically powder when compared to carving the MFS with a knife.

If you plan on using the blade for something else, then you would adjust the teeth size to that need.

FWIW the Lenox company sells a bi-metal hacksaw blade (I generally purchase them from electrical contractor supply houses, however they are available in many other places now). These babies are really neat as they can literally be tied into a know without breaking. IRRC they run about $2 US @. I put them on my service trucks as I got tired of my crew breaking the standard blades.