I am looking for suggestions. I am looking to build a bug out trailer. I have access to all the tools and the shop that I will need (I have even built a few trailers) What I need is some suggestions and possibly some plans I am not sure yet whether I want to make one with a sleep area or not. Right now I am torn between a small trailer based on a truck utility bed so that I can lock everything up, or a teardrop style like the ones popular in the 40’s and 50’s.
I look forward to all ideas none will be considered as to off the wall or crazy (at least not by me) since some of my own ideas scare me some times. Thanks for your help in advance.
Ray

How about adding some sort of pop-up sail type thing to help collect rainwater?

-Blast

One of the many flaws with my bug out RV trailer is heating in a crisis. Once the propane and/or shore power is gone, the trailer becomes an icebox. If I were designing from scratch, I would try to come up with another system to heat the rig in addition to LP and electric devices.

I thought it would be neat to create an external firebox with a sealed heat-exchanger to allow you to use wood or other material to create heat as a last ditch alternative. You would need power for a blower, some insulated flexible duct work, a butterfly valve and a splice into your trailer's air duct system.

I would also add a bank of 10 marine batteries, an inverter, solar panels and controller hardware.

I have a 1964 Pop-up Camper. It pops straight up without the flipout sides of most pop-ups. It's lifted with 31X10.50 15 tires on it so it's totally off road capable. At 8'X 10' it's suprizing how much stuff can be loaded into it. The biggest advantage is it's a place to sleep off the ground. I have a 10'X17' tent but when it gets real cold the camper is much more comfortable even without heat. I've installed solar panels to keep the batteries charged and an inverter to run AC (phone chargers etc.)items if required. It weighs about 800lbs empty and probably 1200lbs loaded, I now tow it with a full sized Dodge 4X4 but in the past towed it way off road with a downsized Jeep Cherokee and a Toyota Tacoma with out any trouble.

In Arizona the canvas sides with big windows work well to keep you comfortable in the summer and in the winter keep the windows closed, and brew a pot of coffee on the stove and it warms up nicely.

I think more than anything you need to think about what are you going to tow it with, what do you want to take with you and where do you intend to go. Taking the seasons into consideration, those should drive your decisions as to what kind of trailer you want.

I would steer away from a metal sided trailer myself if you intend to sleep in it for obvious reasons as well as the excess weight involved.

If I were going to build a bug out trailer, I'd make it a sleeper and definitely sacrifice some space on the interior so that it could be well insulated. In doing so, as long as you can access it easily, you've got a warm (relatively speaking) and dry place to sleep pre-made.

And whilst I'm dreaming, I'd make the gear storage space pull out from the interior which would then be open space to bed down in much like a drawer. Something like this, but without the openly accessible sides on the outside...

I once owned a 1972 Ford van that had been customized by a college student who drove it to do his graduate work in botany in Guatamala. Except for the floor and windows (only had front & back & two door windows), it was totally insulated and paneled.

It had a crank-up roof vent that was okay in rain as long as you weren't driving. I drove all over the western U.S. in that thing, and was as comfy as could be.

For a trailer, I would have fold-down platform bunks on hinges & steel cable (or chain). This would give you more storage room, but could be easily converted to living quarters.

Ventilation is important. Heat rises. I've had a van with a roof vent and one without (for a short time), and the difference is incredible. Vents must be screened.

Screened windows that can be secured from inside with solid covers. Gun barrel slot optional.

Anchor as much as you can so it stays secure. Having to rearrange everything so you can sleep after a hard, tense day is a real PITA. (I learned this after the near-deer event in ID.) It doesn't have to be permanent, just anchored. Like the 12x18x5" FAK that clamps to the wall right inside the door, but can be released so you can take it with you.

Don't waste the storage space near the roof, along the walls.

A roof rack can come in handy. Put some thought into it so there is support all across the roof itself, not like those stupid station wagon rack things.

Put a relatively flat water tank on top of the roof, painted black. Sunny day = warm water without wasting fuel.

Dual purpose is always good. A fold-down plywood bed platform can also serve as a dining table. Square cushions on storage boxes make more comfortable seats.

Check out boat equipment for fasteners. What they don't have for keeping things secure while moving probably hasn't been invented yet. It's not all expensive.

Consider some of those boat things that look like a metal dimple with a ring that swings up so you can tie things to the outside. (I've duct-taped 10-ft lengths of plastic pipe to the side of a compact car, but there ARE better ways.)

More of those dimple/ring things all over the ceiling could come in handy.

Seal all seams with EXTREME care.

Sue

I once converted a 3/4 ton Ford van to be a "Mobile Command Post/Base Camp".

It was this concept that led me to customize it the way I needed it to be to fit my need.

That had me arrange bench seats to double as beds, w/storage boxes underneath each.

I carried food, water, & a porta-potty at all times. My camping supplies were all in the van, at all times.

Space was allotted for weapons storage.

Communications consisted of a CB and AM/FM receiver (pre-cell phone era).

Space was reserved in the back for modules. (kitchen, general cargo storage, work bench/tool storage). I put in what I expected to need per trip.

The concept is what gave me the direction I needed to achieve my goal.

Why build it yourself? Why not find one used?

tro

http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showto...earch/1/#769797

A great thread, with plan links, on building your own trailer.

I always thought that a long bed P/U (or just the bed) with a utility bed installed and a camper shell on top would be pretty handy. But, why not just look for a used travel trailer, 16 ft or less should do. Already equipped with toilet, fresh water tanks, waste water tanks, stove, propane, beds, refer, just about everything you could want. Pull it with a P/U and you have more storeage space. You can add storage pods on top, all kinds of options...