For in the field I'm considering the type of honing stone used by Ray Mears and Michel Blomgren, a diamond on one side and fine ceramic on the other:

http://www.fallkniven.com/misc/eng-sharp.htm

If you need your knife to shave wood for fire making for example, the best is the sabre grind (3 on the diagram, as found on Mora knives) or else it's more awkward to use a secondary micro bevel. This grind will shave wood basically like a chisel. The secondary bevels are used to keep the edge sharp for a longer time while not having to remove too much metal, in a kitchen for example but you will need a specialized system to maintain the right angle. But the advantage of the single wide sabre grind of the scandinavian blades is that it's easier to maintain the angle obviously.



Theoretically, there's 5 stages in sharpening:

1. coarse, removing material; (not always needed)
2. Medium, polishing; (around 400 grit)
3. Fine, polishing; (around 600 grit)
4. Hone, polishing; usually you start using ceramic at this stage. A bathroom or kitchen ceramic tile will do the job.
5. Strop, to remove the burr and reconfigurate the angle like a microscopic convex grind. You can use your leather belt.

Theoretically, you have to triple the number of strokes you used at each stage. For example, if you took 10 strokes at the medium stage, you'll need 30 strokes at the fine stage, 90 strokes at the hone and so on.

You may start by experimenting with wet & dry sandpaper sticked on a board (with carpet tape for example) and then you'll know more what to buy as a specialized tool.

Frankie