Ok, mini RSK,M2 using a Sharpmaker at the 30 degree angle. All of a sudden I can't seem to get it shaving sharp. What am I doing wrong? Do I need to try the 40 degree for a while and then go back?

I don't have an M2 Ritter but it sounds like you need to resharpen the edge as opposed to touching it up. Did you use it a lot before putting it to the Sharpmaker? You may need the diamond stones. M2 is hard machine steel. If all else fails find a local knife shop to grind a new edge and touch it up with the Sharpmaker or send it to BM for "Life Sharp" service.

"send it to BM for "Life Sharp" service."

Ors,
Have you tried the sharpie marker on the edge to make sure you're using the correct angle?

No knife I own (none!) came from the factory with the edges ground at an accurate angle. Additionally, each knife's edges are not the same (i.e. one edge will be, say, 21 deg, and the other, say, 19 deg). I've had to regrind the edge on each one of them so that both sides are the same. I usually regrind at 12-1/2 or 15 degrees.

At 15 degrees, the Sharpmaker's 30 deg setting works well. At the final passes on the fine stones, I'll increase the angle by eye just a tad, and use very, very light strokes.

At 12-1/2 degrees, I have a 1/4" hardwood block that I set under one end of the Sharpmaker to increase the angle. I swap this block to the other end when I switch edges.

The sharpie marker will tell you how you're doing angle/edgewise.

I hope I didn;t overexplain this to an already experienced sharpener.... but it appears you're having trouble with the S30V. Diamonds are great, but you don;t need them for S30V...the Sharpmaker's ceramics will do fine.

Each to his own, but I don;t strop S30V. I leave it as it came from the fine white stones.

RAS has a pretty good idea....BM Lifesharp will take care of you....eventually. They can take several weeks to get your knife back to you. Plus, when it gets back, you'll use it and need to resharpen it soon enough. S30V is good but not invincible. So, I'd recommend pounding away at the Sharpmaker.

The thing I noticed is I can get good and fast at one or two knives. The others I fuss and fight with until I get them right. By that time, I'm not good at the original ones! I think I get familiar with the edges while I'm working them....each one is unique. Once I get them sharp, I've lost the feeling for the other blades. It never ends.

Keep trying Ors. Use the Sharpie marker. Increase the angle *just a tad* on your final passes on the white stones (corners, don;t use the flats) and use whisper-light pressure.

MY mistake. You have M2 not S30V. Same principal though. Use the Sharpie. I don;t own any M2 but from what I've read it will take a little longer on the ceramic rods. You might need diamonds later, but with a little work the ceramic will work.

Not my idea. billym mentioned it first in the thread, but it's a Benchmade so the policy applies. Sounds to me like he let the knife get to dull and it just needs a new edge. I'd use the Sharpmaker and not go for an acute edge. Making the edge too thin is the reason so many knives won't hold their edge. Do you really need it to shave with? I see so many guys who reprofile the edge so that they can shave their arms, but is that a realistic requirement for an EDC utility blade?

My apologies RAS... I didn't notice the quotation marks.

No, I don;t think you need a super fine edge. It's a personal preference. 15 degrees is 30 inclusive though.... 12-1/2 is 25. That's not too fine for an RSK. You (no, I) want it as sharp as I can get it, not necessarily a fine edge, just a very sharp one.

I think that Sharpmaker will do the job from 30 to 40 degrees, and several on either side of that.

I've got an old Tri-Hone that I used exclusively for years. It came with a 23 degree wedge which I suppose would give a 46 degree edge in addition to stock thickness. It's a robust edge and I've found it to be plenty sharp for any wilderness requirement. I've used that on a few of my folders and find them to be sharp enough for my needs. I just don't need to shave my arms.

Ors,
I've always found that the "Razors Edge" 'system' to give exceptional information regarding sharpening. Basically, after you've prepped the edge (getting the right 'relief') then as long as you keep the angle to less than or equal to 25 degrees, you can get a razors edge. To prep the edge, you have to grind down the area behind the edge so that it is (relatively) thin. If you get the book "The Razors Edge Guide to Sharpening", I think you will find it an excellent resource to your library.

CJ