The Brooks Brothers Brigade Office Cashe

Rich “Raspy” Shawver

Some disasters happen in an instant without any warning. Others give you days of advanced notice. Some are a single event. While some are a combination of a series of happenings culminating into a big showdown. Still others give vague hints of what may come for days. Then something changes. I have seen where they predicted a hurricane would strike a location. Some of the people at that location evacuated up and down the coast to get out of the way. Then in the last hours the storm changed track. Some of those that had evacuated ended up right where it hit. I have seen snowstorms that were predicted to be somewhat heavy but no great threat. Then things changed and it is suddenly all hands on deck. We just stepped into a deep pile of brown stuff. Mama nature and her storms do what they want not always what the weatherman predicts. Then you might only have hours or minutes to react to the news that things just got worse.

Regardless of the speed that a disaster is initiated. It can depend upon the type, size and location of how and when it effects you and your reaction to it. Even instantaneous occurrences may take seconds, minutes hours or even days to directly impact you where you are. If you have days of warning you probably are not at work anyway. But if you happen to be at work when things begin going sour you will need to react in an appropriate manor and in a timely fashion.

If the situation develops at a slow enough pace rather than a run for your life scenario. You may have the opportunity to upgrade to a higher level of equipage from a cashe in your office. Yet this begs several very important questions. The first is why should I even bother? What choices do you have? Why do you need it? What is it? Where can I keep it? How big should it be? What does it consist of?

Why should I have a cache in my office? If you are reading this you can probably answer that question already. You at least have an inkling that maybe you should think about being prepared just in case. You might say. Well even though I think I should be ready. I have a full kit at home. It only would take an hour or anyway less than a day to get there. So why do I need food and water let alone all that other stuff? That’s what you think. What under normal conditions would be an easy walk. Remember the entire premise is things are not normal. It might take you much longer to accomplish the task. Why take chances?

Depending upon the situation you have 2 options. You can stay put or head for different location. This alternate location could be home, a relative’s or friend’s residence outside the effected area or a prepared retreat. Such a retreat could be a dedicated disaster shelter or simply a well stocked summer or vacation home. The choice may also include additional stops along the way. If it is a short-term situation waiting out the trouble might be the wisest choice. But then this needs to be balanced against family obligations. If you have no family or that you know they are safe and sound there may not be a driving need to rejoin them immediately. The decision to head out is time sensitive. With plenty of warning you might have the time to change cloths, eat a hardy meal, plot your next move and maybe even take a nap. One thing you should if at all possible do is prior to taking off is to drink as much fluids as you can hold. As your stomach can be considered an extra canteen. That way you don’t have to use what you are carrying for awhile. This will give you a longer period of endurance before needing to resupply. You want to be at the top of your game and start out under the best possible conditions available. Then again you might only have enough time to grab some gear on your way out. Therefore a portion of the equipment needs to be arranged in a grab and go package. More commonly known as the dreaded BOB.

Timing of an evacuation can be critical in a slowly developing situation. Too soon and if nothing comes of it you look like a fool and if such behavior becomes a habit of splitting from work at the least little thing it could cost you your job. If you are going to go anyway the best bet is to get out quickly and be ahead of the crowd. That way you are clear of many complications such as traffic jams. But you have to plan that everyone else is trying to get out at the same time. By traveling inside the mob there is the advantage of strength in numbers. Traveling through “Bad Neighborhoods” with a couple of hundred or even a few thousand others the chances of being mugged is very small. Remember the mob scenes from the New York City blackout. But being trapped in a herd can be bad if panic sets in. Also there may be travel restrictions or diversions that are imposed by the authorities. While they that might be avoided or circumvented by a single person it can’t be done from within a crowd. You might want to go into or through an area that the PTB’s have decided you shouldn’t go. Before going into such areas it might be wise to find out why the restriction is there. It might actually be hazardous to your health to go there. But let’s take the case you decide to wait until after the crowds clear. Do you want to start your travel in the dark or the light? In either case you want to have the maximum amount of either one. So you will need to adjust the time of departure. Both have advantages and disadvantages. The key is one of visibility. While daylight lets you see what is going on around you. It also allows you to be seen. It is a choice of how, what or if you want to evade contact with during your travels.

You need to form a series of what if questions and answers. If this is the situation then I do this action at this speed. But if that happens then I do that on a different timeline. A flat out run is not always the best choice. By having worked out beforehand what, when and how to function under different conditions improves your chances. By preplanning you are ready to act. This is done while things are calm and you are thinking clearly. Having no plans other than some gear you have to make your choices on the fly while under pressure. Not having time to think things out under the pressure of the immediate situation can greatly increase the chance of doing the something wrong or at least ill advised. Studies especially those of airplane crashes have found that people that have plans ready to go in the event of a catastrophe have a higher survival rate. Instead of flapping around in a panic they react quickly and with purpose. This can make a great deal of difference in any situations. Of course you need more than one plan and each of those need options. Why you may ask? No matter how good any plan is things will not work out the way you think they will. Remember Murphy is always with us. So you need options for built in flexibility. That way you can change plans in an instant. But if things alter radically you should be able to go completely off the page. Even if you have to go radical having thought out other possibilities will provide a background upon which to base any new choices. Like the old Chinese menu you can chose one from column A and one from column B from bits and pieces of other plans and ideas.

Having such gear should be obvious. The more gear you have available the easier your life will be. Much of this gear falls into the category of nice to have but are just too much for daily on your person carry. The extra gear will save you time. For example you can pitch a tent or other form of shelter far faster than building a debris hut or lean-to. And while you might be a master builder of outdoor shelters they won’t be as tight as a commercial product. Besides if you have the necessary materials for the task at hand you do not need to spend the time gathering what you need. You can boil water to purify it but filters and or chemical methods are much quicker and more convenient. Besides they can be done on the fly or with minimal stopping time. Gear can in no way supplement for skills. And if you don’t have the skills to use your gear it is a useless burden. So learn to use your gear to its fullest extent and learn primitive skills and expedient methods as a last resort backup if you and your stuff get separated.

What it is, is a group or selection of supplies to supplement your daily carry items. While your daily carry should supply your minimal basic needs. The additional supplies will make the situation more comfortable. This added comfort can and will reduce the stress levels. Thus making it easier to cope with the elements that are to be faced because of the disaster you are involved in. In a survival situation anything that improves your chances is a welcome addition. Often having the proper equipment available can make a great deal of difference even if it is not used. How can that be you may ask? Your decision process is less in the panic mode. The thought process is that since I have that item I don’t have to worry or panic. Since you are not thinking about how to supply a need that hasn’t or may not come up you can focus more clearly on what needs to be accomplished immediately. Think of these items as an upgrade to what you are already carrying.

Where you store it will greatly influence what you have in it. The size and even the shape of the available space will not only affect how large some of the items will be but also the overall amount of equipment. You just can’t stuff something that has a fixed length of 3 feet into a space only 2 feet long. Sure, sure if you angle, twist and put something just so you can fit in something a bit larger but there are limits. If the total amount ends up the size of a small trunk it will not squeeze into a space the size of a shoebox no matter how skilled at packing you are. Although the better thought out the packing is the more that can be placed in the space available. That does not mean that you are forced have only one such storage area. By combining several small areas you may have the ability to store surprising amounts of stuff.

Rather than simply dumping things into the various spaces you can measure the available dimensions. Then take either soft pouches or boxes like those made by Rubbermaid or similar products that fit the available spaces as close as possible. By prepackaging the gear in such containers they can be quickly and unobtrusively slipped into the selected spaces. Consider your grab and go bag as one of these parcels. Aside from packing things in sealable container vacuum packing is a good way to help protect items. This is distinctively helpful when packing bulky items like clothing. Along with protecting them it greatly reduces the space they take up. Making them easier to store in limit space.

Several factors will go into the decision on the ideal storage space. Where you keep things and what you can store might be controlled by your employer’s policies. If the company has an edict against firearms or even cutting implements it might severely limit your options. Remember most government facilities especially schools and courthouses have drastic penalties beyond simple firing for trying to smuggle in these kind of items. At a minimum they will confiscate them for even forgetting they were in your pocket. And chances are you will never get them back. Such rules may require having much stored outside the workplace. Ease of access is a 2-edged sword. You want it where you can get at it quickly and easily. You may not have much time to get to it or be able to jump through hoops to reach it if you have to evacuate. On the other hand you will want to limit the amount of access to others. After all they are your supplies. That doesn’t mean you can’t share your bounty with others at need but that should be your choice not someone else’s. You don’t want to go to your cashe only to find it depleted because someone “borrowed” bits and pieces. Or even worse having it spread about the office on display showing everyone what a disturbed individual you are. Scaring the PHRASECENSOREDPOSTERSHOULDKNOWBETTER. does not make for a harmonious work environment. Being considered a dangerous fanatic might cause a few problems. This could range from general embarrassment to the need to seek other employment. Although with the Red Cross and Homeland Security pushing for people to be prepared it might not be as bad as it once was. Some of your coworkers might even come to you for advice on setting up something for themselves. Some may decide if something happens you will supply their needs. And there will always be those that think you are some kind of nut. Believe me those that think the worst of your predilection and probably say things behind your back will be the first ones that come to you demanding their fair share if something does happen.

Lockable desk drawers are one of the best choices. Of anyplace during the workday your desk will be the one place you spend the most time. While a dedicated drawer would be nice odds are that you might have to make do with unused portions of several. Open areas in file cabinets can also work. But this can depend on the amount of access others have to them. One idea with filing cabinets is that things can be stored in the space under the bottom drawer. This location is especially suited for prepackaged modules. Having it there, chances are that unless you tell someone or they see you putting things in such a space. No one would be the wiser. Documents have been lost in these spaces and not found for years or sometimes never. A personal locker, if available, might allow for increased capacity but could suffer from being too far away at the critical time. If all else fails a bag stuck under the desk might be your only choice as limited as that maybe.

What such a collection should consist of breaks down into 3 categories. These areas are a change of attire, the stay in the office supplies and finally a BOB. Of course anything stored will depend on numerous variables. Most important are to account for individual needs. Another is the general location of where you are. This would also entail the climate and the season of the year. Additionally what are the expected disasters could be. In tornado alley you would be less likely to gear up for earthquakes. Conversely in California a tornado kit might lack essentials needed there. A blizzard in the northeast will require a different set of skills and equipment than coping with a hurricane on the gulf coast. So what you gear up for should be based upon the most likely scenario first. You can then add items to cope with more unexpected circumstances as the opportunity presents itself. Regardless of the type of situation you face some things will be universally adaptable. Regardless of where you are or what is happening around you the basic needs of survival will not change.

What is selected for a change of clothing will be the most variable section. Part of this depends upon the geographical location. The largest factor that effects the variation is seasonal changes. If there is enough storage space you could keep several sets that would cover all possible weather conditions. Still in most cases this would not be practical. Although it is best to have it stocked for the most severe conditions that could be faced at the time. Additionally rotating the clothing in and out as the seasons change is the perfect opportunity to inspect the entire storage package. Even if there is no need to change items there should be a regular schedule to inspect the gear. Also time sensitive items as medicines and foods need to be used and replaced according to their shelf lives. These regular inspections serve another purpose. By looking over what is there you can see where changes can be made to improve the entire kit. It can allow you to see if something has gotten lost or forgotten. It can also be an excuse to upgrade to improved wants.

Why do you need to have this change of costume? First reason is of durability. You have to plan that you might be scrambling around in unusual locations. You might need to be climbing over, under, around or through rubble. You might even be forced to travel through subway tunnels, sewers and other back and by ways of the city. While a quality suit could be rugged, they are not made to withstand this kind of abuse. What you want is the kind of clothing designed for strenuous activities such as hiking, camping or manual labor. These items can also function as a form of camouflage. No, I don’t mean military or even hunting camo gear. In an urban setting these kinds of things would actually work in reverse. They would make you stand out from those around you. The idea of camouflage is to blend into the surroundings. In a city this means blending in with other people rather than the terrain as in a rural setting. If you, and you probably will, have to travel through some of the rougher sections a suit would make you stand out as a Have among the Have-nots. This could make you a target. Where as dressed as a working stiff you would pass relatively unnoticed other than as another body but nothing special. To make you less noticeable you would want to go with neutral colors that would blend with city buildings to an extent. High fashion neon reds, greens and the likes are too visible for skulking around trying to avoid attention. Shades of brown and gray are better than distinct colors like black or white. While you might think it cool to dress in basic black. Looking like a Swat Team member or a ninja can draw attention not only from the common people it could draw attention from any vestiges of organized authority. The entire purpose is to be unnoticed not the center of unwelcome attention.

The first and one of the most important items on the agenda is footwear. If nothing else of apparel is included in this cashe high quality hiking boots are almost a must. You do not want bright shiny new boots either. You want a well-broken in pair. Your feet will thank you for it. Sure you may be able to ride off into the sunset in you trusty SUV with few problems. But you had better be ready to travel via the shoe leather express as a last resort. Yes, you were smart enough to go practical rather than stylish in your daily wear shoes. They are the kind that are designed for a lot of walking and time on your feet. Yet no matter how good they are even these do not hold a candle as a good pair of hiking boots for long distance and rough terrain walking. Such boots will have better traction and far superior foot protection especially when it comes to ankle support. In the summer time you would want something as light and cool as possible yet strong and supportive. While dealing with cold and snow conditions you want a pair that is more rugged and insulated to cope. Also if icy conditions can be expected you might want to include those slip-on traction devices. While unlikely specialty footwear such as climbing shoes might be needed for your special conditions. Thus providing the exception that proves the general rules.

Along with shoes come socks. While you should already have a pair in your daily kit here you can and should have a couple of extra pairs available. First so you can wear multiple sets. One reason for this is insulation for warmth. Secondly for the cushioning effect. Additionally it allows one sock to slide against another. Thus reducing friction on the foot itself that can cause a crippling blister. Also with several pairs it allows rotating in fresh clean ones to maintain foot health.

The rest of your apparel needs to be set up in a layered system. By designing it in layers it is easier to adjust to meet the requirements of the weather conditions and activity levels you will face. Another advantage of having the clothing set up in a layered system is that even though you are capable of being rigged up for the arctic doesn’t mean you have to wear or take the entire thing. Just make sure that what you take with you meets or better yet exceed the worst you could expect over several days. As Mr. Murphy would have it on top of the disaster you are facing here comes the storm of the century to make things even more interesting. But even if it is hot weather forget shorts and T-shirts. They leave your arms and legs exposed. While a simple layer of cloth is not much protection it is better than nothing. A simple nick, scratch, cut or scrape may not seem like much unless it gets infected. Even then it is generally minor. But with the scrambling around you may have to do in some of the places you may have to go. This could easily lead to dozens if not hundreds. And who knows what they might get smeared with. Even a sunburn could become very painful and somewhat debilitating. While this may not put you completely out of commission because you can fight through the pain in a dire situation. It could seriously limit your actions or slow reaction time. At a time you need to be at the top of your game. Do yourself a favor. Go with long sleeves and pants.

Traditionally wool has been the first choice as outdoor wear. Being a natural fiber it has been in use for a very long time. So all its properties are well known to get the best uses out of it. Wool clothing is extremely rugged. It is highly fire resistant. It is virtually impossible to get it going with sparks and even when exposed to direct flame it tends to smolder rather than burn. Wool retains much of its insulation ability even when wet. Although once wet it takes forever to dry as the fiber retains water. Unfortunately for myself like many others wool is an irritating fabric to wear. Face it wool itches. Although there are suppose to be itchless brands on the market.

In recent years some of the modern miracle fabrics have begun to rival wool for the top spot. Their biggest plus is they don’t itch. They are almost as warm for the equivalent weight and getting closer all the time. Most of them are based on plastic. Therefore they are much more vulnerable to fire. To make matters worse they melt and stick to you while they are burning. So care must be exercised. Many retain much of their insulation ability when wet also. Another plus is that they do not retain water very well. In fact many can be swung around your head in imitation of a helicopter and be almost dry in a short time. While this spin drying technique will work for any soggy clothing it is especially suitable to these fabrics.

There is a kind of middle ground on fabrics. That is silk. It is a natural fabric, which is a plus. It has good insulation capacity but is comfortable even in hot conditions. It is particularly well suited as a next to the skin layer. Silk is probably the strongest natural fiber available.

Cotton is another acceptable choice. Now, before everyone commences screaming this is in a limited role. In cold weather cotton is the worst choice possible. The old adage is that in the cold cotton kills. Cotton is a cool cloth. It doesn’t insulate well. It wicks moisture and heat away from the body. And if it gets wet from an external source it is a recipe for disaster. But the features that makes it so bad in the cold makes it good in hot weather. So if the thermometer is soaring because of season or general climate it might be the choice for you. In any case the selection of material is a personal matter.

It might seem that I’m a bit obsessed with dressing warm. That is because hypothermia or as it is called dying from exposure is so insidious. As it can creep up on you without notice. You know you are cold but don’t realize that your core temperature is dropping. One thing that makes matters worse is the chilling effects the mind. Causing you to lose the ability to think rationally. You don’t realize what is happening. People that have suffered hypothermia and survived have actually thought they were overheating and started to discard there clothing and other gear in an effort to cool off. This only makes matters worse. It is best to be prepared for its effects and symptoms. Actually sub zero and even sub freezing temperatures are not that much of a concern. That is because in those conditions people consider it a possibility and take the necessary precautions and are alert for the symptoms. The majority that have succumb to hypothermia have done so in the surprising temperatures of the 40’s and 50’s. The reasons are that it is not so cold that people are worried about it but is still 50 to 60 degrees below body temperature so that there is enough of a gradient to drive a considerable amount of heat loss. Especially when the likelihood that you might be inadequately dressed for the conditions. Add in wind chill if a breeze is blowing. Then if you manage to get wet lookout. This is real easy to do. A storm front passes through with rain. This can and often drops the temperature from comfortable 70’s to the 40’s in a matter of minutes. Ergo you are wet, chilled and not wearing what you need. The chances are that you could be in serious trouble without even realizing it.

Other than more appropriate attire. And yes the change in clothing is based more on travel than staying put. But could be needed if the office environment deteriorates because of a power failure. Just because it is available it is an option. You don’t have to use it. The rest of the office cashe is equipment either to ride out the storm or a to get elsewhere kit. The portion set up for travel is still part of and usable if you stay but packed so that it is ready to roll at a moments notice as you might not have time to pack if you need to get out. True cloths will go with you. But are not really considered part of the traveling equipment pack other than a possibly an extra set so that you have spares to change into.

Much of the equipment outside of the travel kit consists of consumables. Essentially food and water. As these are for use mainly if you stay there is no limitation on bulk or weight other than the available storage area. In fact you should probable stock more than for your own needs. Why more? Well even though it is your supply there will most likely others staying there also. Yes, feeding them is not your responsibility. It would not go over well if you are sitting there enjoying a fine dinner while those around you look on drooling. But sharing with those others is still your choice. One reason to share is there might be some available supplies in the office. These would be from a break room or vending machines. If you want to use these others could rightly expect to have some of your goodies. Also depending on how your office is set up utensils may or may not be available. If there are none or are limited in nature you might want to include paper plates, cups and utensils.

I won’t go in depth on specific foods to include in a stockpile because tastes differ too much. Things I like you might hate and visa versa. I see so many people decry eating Spam but I enjoy it. The hard core will claim that the only things to use are MRE’s but can be anything that may be stored without refrigeration. It is amazing what is available on the average grocery store shelf. Not only many dehydrated food of all sorts especially fruits. The science of shelf stabilized or retort foods is expanding daily. Much of this is based on the process that created MRE’s. You don’t have to deal with heavy tin cans. Foil pouched tuna is just the first. Think of how many soups, stews and the like in plastic containers made to pop in the microwave to heat and eat. There are even meals like roast beef or chicken breasts with gravy and mashed potatoes. While many of these taste better heated. Since they are fully cooked they can be eaten cold if you have no means of warming them. Of course there are bars of all manner. Such as power, protein, granola and there are even bowls of cereal in a bar form complete with the milk. One excellent choice is Ensure and other supplement type drinks. They combine fluids with a high level of nutrition.

You can include assorted comfort and convenience items. Comfort and convenience items, Boy does that cover a lot of ground. Especially since what works for one can be totally different for another. The only limits are what an employer allows, the space available to store it and what your imagination and inclination deems viable.

For physical comfort it could be a couple of blankets making a bedroll to keep you warm and comfy at night. But could easily be upgraded to a top of the line sleeping bag. Depending upon finances. And what are you going to sleep on? Well the floor is there if nothing else is available. Maybe couches are available in a building lounge or reception room? But if there are others also waiting out the trouble you will need to vie for an open one. Unless you are the top dog in the place someone higher up the food chain might have first dibs. Then again that individual or the group as a whole might claim it for someone else considered more in need of it. As an example a pregnant woman might have a better claim. So you better think upon methods of supplying your own comfy bed. A sleeping pad springs to mind first. With an air mattress following close behind. Even that could be upgraded to one of those airbeds. But if that is the plan think about having an alternate method of inflation. If there were a power failure it would take you probably well into the next day to blow one up with lungpower. Then again a folding camp cot might just be the ticket. Going a short distance from the common you might rig a hammock from the walls of your cubical or any place with solid anchorage. Well someone might think they have more right to your sleeping arrangements than you do even if it is yours. Most people wouldn’t even consider trying to appropriate a hammock. Then there are other methods of improvisation. Look around now and see what is available. Try to figure out what and how it could be used to manufacture accommodations.

Comfort can also be of a spiritual nature. A security blanket if you will. This could be anything that gives you the will and incentive that gets you through the wee small hours of the night when the willies strike. For some this could be a picture or pictures of family or loved ones. It could even be a beloved pet. For others it might be a picture of a favorite media star. What ever works. One favorite of the religious is a pocket Testament for inspirational reading. Back in the 60’s many ran around with Chairman Mao’s little red book. Personally I find a well-cuddled .45 has a great calming influence.

Tools:
This is where you would keep those large tools that are too big to go anywhere else. Your stash is where you would keep a sheath knife, hatch, machete and other similar blades. If you think you might have to deal with rubble, stuck doors, dropped ceilings or other contingencies of a tweaked, partially or totally collapsed building. A 3-foot or so pry bar or crowbar could be handy. A small to medium hand sledge might also fit your list of useful items to include. Some might like the utility of a fireman’s friend the Halligan tool. Think of it as a high tech pry bar. I have seen them in various lengths from 2 to 4 feet long. Again what to have is a matter of personal choice or a perceived need. Remember when selecting such things use your imagination Don’t just go with what is on my, or anyone else’s list or thinks is best.

OK, so now that we have you are able to stay comfy cozy in your office. It is time to think about what will be needed; in the event you decide it behooves you to get elsewhere. Now you have to construct the dastardly BOB. So you don’t like the name BOB, call it a George if it makes you happy. As long as you have something that serves the same function.

What is a BOB anyhow? Well the term BOB stands for a Bug Out Bag. Along with bugging out it can be likewise used to get home again. It is simpler to type BOB than some other long-winded name. It is simply a convenient travel pack of necessary equipment. The contents of which extend and improve upon what you should already be carrying on your person. Sure, that daily carry gear is suppose to cover your minimum needs for an emergency. But the important word in that sentence is minimum. As always you can scrounge for more and this might be even easier in a city. But the additional equipment being readily available can improve your chances. But if nothing else it can be a great time saver.

How big should a BOB be? Everyone talks about 40 and 50 pounds in a pack for camping. A soldier’s load out runs to 60 and 70 pounds. But face it the average office worker is not in that kind of shape. OK, OK, you are the exception or at least think you are. Even if you are in that kind of shape to carry such loads. Remember these max loads are only moved from point A to point B. Hikers make base camps where most of their gear is kept during an outing. Soldiers drop the majority of their load when going into combat so they can move more freely and quickly. They then return, if possible, to retrieve it. When you are traveling in an emergency you might end up having to abandon your gear. But there will probably be little chance of returning to getting it back. So the concept is to keep it light enough to be easily carried. Not so heavy that it becomes a burden. Finally at a level where you can still be quick on your feet and nimble while wearing it. So lighter is better? Well, the answer is yes and no. There is also a lower limit to be considered. That is to be able to include enough gear to be practical. That way it is worthwhile to even bother with.

While the exact weight is a matter of personal choice as it depends upon what you decide to include. Figure an average of 20 to 25 pounds or 10 to 12 kilograms for the metric crowd is about right. Of course if you study the tenets of the lightweight backpacking crowd you might go even less. But then again it might enable you to have even more gear available.

In general about half the weight allotment will be consumables. Essentially food and water. With the water being the much larger part of that weight. Fortunately but then again in many cases unfortunately this portion will rapidly decrease as you go. If you did not include a method of making clean water in your daily kit you will want to include a way here. Even if you did you might still want to add an improved capacity. So you can restock.

For food you want it to be the lightest most nutrition packed form as possible. The old form was pemmican. You can still make your own. There are many recipes available. There are even some that has replaced the fat component with peanut butter. Although, I don’t know if these recipes have the same long storage life as old-fashioned pemmican. The modern equivalent to pemmican is power bars. These come in a much wider assortment of flavors and are much more convenient. You will probably want to include some hard candies. As they are basically sugar the rush from eating them can give you a short-term energy boost at critical times. They also have good storage capabilities. A small sealed jar of peanut butter might likewise be an option. Homemade jerky and dried fruits can be a welcome addition. Even power bars can be concocted at home. Making your own storage foods have a few distinct advantages. In general they are cheaper. The major difference in price is the time it takes to produce them. The biggest plus is that you can customize them. Not only to individual tastes but also to only contain ingredients or amounts of something that your body can tolerate. If you are allergic to something say peanuts. You simply don’t use them. Suppose you are on a low salt diet. You don’t have to make jerky that is so salty that you need to drink a gallon of water with each bite. Sure you don’t need food for quite a while. You will still function better if you keep the fires stoked on a regular basis. Besides being hungry even if it is not critical it is another distraction. You don’t need any more at a time like this.

Another old time emergency and travel food is parched corn or Pinole. Being dried it is very lightweight. It likewise has a fairly long storage life. It is also known by many other names depending on what part of the country you come from. This is corn, preferably sweet corn, that is parched then ground into a fine flour. While similar and seems to be corn meal. There are some differences. Mainly that is the corn is parched or toasted rather than simply dried. It is also a finer grind than meal.

While it tastes good as is. Adding some sugar often boosted the flavor. Back when this was the travel food of choice this was maple sugar. Maple sugar is more flavorful than plain old white. Since you will probably be making this yourself. You can experiment with various flavor additives to improve the taste. Make sure that what you use can be stored as long as the Pinole.

A large tablespoon full mixed with a pint of water makes an adequate meal. While it can be mixed in a cup. Another method was to place the Pinole in your mouth then drink the water through it. If time and facilities are available the mix can be cooked down into a mush similar to grits or polenta. While it would not be stored in the Pinole. If you have some dried fruit in your kit. It can be added while cooking it into a mush makes it very tasty and something for a change of pace. Dried apples are remarkably good this way.

It was said that toasted wheat or rolled oats treated the same way are almost as good and nutritious.

A friend has an interesting way of consuming jerky. He grinds it into a fine powder. When ready to eat he mixes it with water making a meat shake. Because of the fine grind the jerky reconstitutes quickly. By combining jerky and Pinole this could make a very flavorful drink that would be very nutritious. The combo could also be cooked down for a hot meal. Because these are dried products be careful about the amount you eat at one time. They will swell as they absorb water. You could eat these so quickly that you could easily overload your stomach before you realize it. Just because these are old time foods and considered old fashioned. Doesn’t mean they won’t work and work very well even today.

A change of cloths should be included especially more than one pair of socks. Some form of shelter or components to be able to fashion the same. Some way to protect you from the weather if it happens to change or is already inclement.

Shelter:
There will be a couple of specific suggestions from my system at the end of the article. You got a trash bag or 2 in your primary kit. They are so useful tossing a couple of extras in the pack couldn’t hurt. What about including a poncho or a tarp? Ever think about a bivy sack or other small tent? Sure travel trailer, an outfitted van or a RV would be nice. They just don’t fold up small enough to fit into a pack and they tend to be a bit heavy to carry around.

Fire:
You have a lens in your wallet for solar fire. There are Bic or two in your pockets and at least one in your briefcase. A couple of magnesium fire starters or the flint sparking rods are scattered around your gear. Maybe you even have some matches about your person. Since fire is such an important tool. Why not toss a couple of different methods into the pack. Might as well add some tinder either commercial or homemade. One of the favorites is petroleum jelly coated cotton balls. Possibly some other methods of encouraging rapid fire starting. Such as fire ribbon and the like. Maybe a tuna candle, a buddy burner or an Esbit stove and fuel for a self-contained fire source. It won’t take up much space and only weights a few ounces. As the old saying goes an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Do you really need to cook? Perhaps you scrounged a can of something during your wanderings. You could probably eat it as is but it would go down better if it were cooked and warm. More importantly you may need to boil water to purify it to replenish your supply. In your front line kit you have some foil, don’t you, to cook with. Foil can be folded into something you can boil water in. Wouldn’t a pot in the pack be so much nicer and easier? A 1-quart would be about the smallest practical size. A 2-quart pot would be about the best choice. Anything much larger would tend to overwhelm the pack. What about a frying pan you may ask? While you can boil water or make a stew in them. The size and balance is all wrong. Besides you can fry in the bottom of a pot. The bail over the top makes a pot easier to manipulate over a handle sticking out the side. A pot can also protect some of the more delicate items in your pack from rough handling. It can also protect the pack and you from items that might poke and prod.

Finally toss in anything else you might need or want. And don’t forget to include a decent first aid kit. All the separate portions of the kit can be packed into different colored pouches for ease of finding what is needed quickly. Also individual components can be packed in various sized plastic bags for water proofing. If desired, then those in a group can be placed in even larger plastic zip style baggies for double protection.

I guess the next important question is that now that you have selected what you want to have. What is the best way to carry all of it? Conventional wisdom says use a backpack. Considering the limits we have placed on ourselves we are looking at something daypack size rather that a full expedition model. Also by limiting the size of the pack it will help keep the weight down. You won’t be tempted to add more things to fill up the extra space. An advantage to the smaller size is that it can be more easily stored. Moreover it could easily be placed in another more conventional bag or box. This can be used to camouflage its nature from those that might take exception to its presents. Another possibility would be to use a vest. Hunting or photographer’s vests, the kinds with a myriad of pockets, are ideal. Many of these vests often have a large pocket across the back. The ones on hunting vests are called game pockets. These can be used as an ersatz backpack for bulky items like a sleeping system. A vest’s major advantage is that it spreads the weight around the body. This permits better balance rather than having everything lumped in the middle of your back as in a pack. But has the disadvantage of less capacity especially for large items. This could create a challenge.

If going the pack route is your choice. I would recommend going with a combination hydration system. These not only have a sizeable water pouch. They have provisions of a pack bag attached to the same carry harness. Thus giving the ability to carry gear and water in a single system. Furthermore a simple hydration system can be combined with a vest. Correspondingly the use of a vest with a pack hydration system will permit more accouterments. It can function as a layering set up. Then if forced to abandon some of your gear it doesn’t have to be all of it. In such layering equipment would be positioned such so that which is most critical to your well being is closest to your body. That way it would be the last to be left behind.

So the quest is finally finished or is it? Is a single cashe all that is really needed? Even if it isn’t you need to get the primary kit ready and in place as quickly as possible. Then you can slowly expand to a more complete system as time and finances permit.

Do you frequently or regularly visit other locations? Perhaps another office in the same or even other cities? What about a factory or warehouse? Maybe it would be wise to consider having cashes in or near these other locations. Most of these ancillary cashes would not necessarily need to be full-fledged stay in place units. But having a BOB available at these locations might fulfill your needs.

Then there are other options. These would be route or satellite cashes. Route cashes are equipment placed along or near frequently traveled or preplanned escape routes. Satellite cashes form a basic ring of several cashes around a primary location. They could be placed around more than the single central point of the office. Often 4, one in each general direction of travel north, south, east and west. The satellite concept is that if you are caught away from the primary cashe and can’t return. No matter which direction circumstances force you to travel one should be relatively near and accessible. The actual number would vary depending on the size of the ring and availability of storage spaces. While in the country such cashes often are buried in a sealed container this would not be very practical in the city. In that case the locations would be placed in rented spaces. These would be something like storage lockers in bus and train stations or gym lockers. Any place in a relatively stable environment you could rent a couple of cubic feet of lockable space would be acceptable.

In most cases both route and satellite cashes would be fully rigged BOBs. The best way to build them would be to make them identical to the one in the office. By making them all the same have several advantages. First there is no guessing what might be in a particular BOB. Also by buying multiples of the same item you might be able to get a bulk discount. With these cashes you can either grab and go if in a hurry. You can restock or supplement existing supplies. They can likewise replace any gear that you were forced to abandon. Furthermore if you happen to be traveling with others. You could then equip your companions with a complete BOB in its own carry system.

Maybe these other BOBs are not a possibility for whatever reason. Another option would be a portable BOB. A standard BOB could be placed in a hard or soft case. Then it could be strapped to and transported on a rolling luggage cart. As these are often common in a city it should not raise too much comment. Even if questioned about it can be explained as equipment or paper work for another location. Your briefcase can even top off the cart along with any legitimate work for those locations.

As mentioned earlier under the shelter section. I will detail a shelter/sleeping system that I have devised. These use existing but modified products. The modifications were to increase their versatility and range of use. They are a poncho and a hammock with added layers. These layers can be separated for specific functions. By combining the layers they give a much lower temperature rating. Another feature is that parts of both can be used together to make a sleeping system. Having multiple functions can result in reduction in weight over fulfilling these different needs in a more conventional manor.

The poncho set up. Sure you have an emergency method for rain protection in the daily carry portion. But then again this is the upgrade section of the program. In my case and area of operation, that is being in the Northeast. I have combined a couple of ideas to form a more multifunctional garment.
One of the ideas was to take a heavy-duty space blanket.
Cut a slit in the center.
Sew bias tape around the resultant opening.
This reinforces the edges so they don’t tear out. It is then pulled over the head and acts as an insulated hoodless poncho. The other concept is to add a layer or liner of insulation to a standard poncho. Either of military or civilian design. In most cases such liners as mine are of a pile type fabric, thinsulate or fleece blanket material. This liner can either be attached via snaps or zippers. I prefer and use snaps because they are easier to install. The liner lets the poncho function as a lightweight walk-around sleeping bag. Sort of a high tech bed roll. What I did was add the space blanket idea between the poncho shell and the liner using snaps. When all 3 pieces a used together it upgrades the thermal insulation value for cold weather. The nice thing about it is that each piece can be used independently or in any combination. This assembly not only functions as wearing apparel but also as portions of sheltering and sleeping systems. Don’t forget you further can and probably should line the hood with insulation and a tin foil beanie.

The Hammock

For a sleeping system I recommend a hammock system. Yes a hammock can even work in the city. For that matter it can work right in your office. All you need are a pair of supports solid enough to support the weight and far enough apart to hang the hammock.

The advantage of a hammock is that it supports your body above the surface. If the area is wet you stay dry. If the surface is lumpy you don’t have things poking you in tender places. It is definitely softer than laying on the floor or the ground. If you have ever tried to sleep on a non-level surface you know how little rest you end up getting. Because you body had to fight all night to keep from sliding or rolling away. Direct contact with a solid surface can literally drain heat from the body at a phenomenal rate. Thus a hammock eliminates the expense, weight and space of a sleeping pad. Using the right style hammock it also combines the features of a tent. The whole thing ends up weighing less than a pad, sleeping bag and a tent. Although there is less space available.

One complaint many people have against hammocks during cold weather is that hanging in the air the wind blows all around it. With that you are affected by wind chill factor. While true this is not as great as uninsulated contact with the ground. But that can easily be overcome if you do not think along conventional lines. Most people think a hammock must be hung roughly at waist height. Well that just ain’t so. Sure that is convenient most of the time. It can be rigged so that when you are in it you are a mere fraction of an inch or a bit more off the ground. Then a very small windbreak will eliminate that problem.

Conversely you are not limited on how high up you can go either. Sleeping high in the air serves at the very least as a form of concealment since most people rarely look up unless something attracts their attention to do so. Therefore you are likely to go unnoticed. This is even better during the darkness. Even more so if there are other things to hide among.

If you are in the wilds or at least a natural setting like a park or the burbs to city dwellers. A hammock keeps you above those things that slither, creep and crawl along the ground. Higher up it can keep you safe from the wild beauties. In the case of an urban setting this could very well be a pack of wild or at least less than civilized dogs. It can even help you avoid the two-legged variety.

A word of caution. If you are consider the possibility of going aerial for a sleeping platform. You might want to include chest and waist straps as a safety precaution. If startled out a sound sleep you might leap out of bed. If you have a violent nightmare you could thrash your way out. This situation happening could lead to the rude surprise of suddenly finding yourself in free fall just before the thud. The effects of that sudden stop at the bottom will greatly depend upon the starting height. It could be a simple inconvenience, serious injuries or worse. Such straps will greatly reduce the chance of this happening or at least slow you down long enough to realize where you are. Think of them like seatbelts in a car.

There is a wide selection of hammocks available on the market. Of course there is also the option of do it yourself route from scratch or in my case adding a few modifications to an existing model. While there are a few designed to accommodate two people most are made to sleep only one. Although in a pinch these single sleepers can be pushed to hold 2 if they are very friendly or in some cases for a parent to include a child.

For those with the desire or need to go ultralight there are the string hammocks. They use relatively light cordage tied in a fishnet pattern. Some of the better ones have ratings of up to 500 pounds. In fact depending upon the mesh size used they can be used as a gill net or a cast net with a few minor adjustments. They can also work as a storage or tote bag for your equipment.

Then there are the old style military jungle hammocks or their civilian descendants. These systems add a roof and sometimes mosquito netting to the hammock. This way they act as a bed and as a tent combined. The modern civilian models are lighter in weight, more compact and have added features making them even better. The most notable of these are the Clark and Hennesy brands.

My choice a few years ago was to go with a modified Hennesy. Although in response to customer comments they have incorporated similar features to their latest models. I trimmed, shaped and re-hemmed a space blanket for a tight fit the outside of the hammock. Then attached snaps to connect them together. I also trimmed and fitted a second space blanket with ties for the inside. This acts as a cover or blanket. The combination makes a self-supported reflecting sleeping bag. Because of the gaps around the edges it is not quite as efficient as a solid bag. It does vent the water vapors your body produces. It actually makes it quite warm in cold weather. Because of the minimal nature of the space blankets the entire works packs with little difference in size and weight of the original setup. There is another product at home improvement stores that can substitute for the space blanket. This building insulation is in essence; bubble wrap sandwiched between 2 sheets of foil. It is nice insulation but does add a bit more bulk to the system.

The Sleeping System

Combining the upgraded poncho, the modified hammock and using the emergency space blanket from a maxi survival kit I formed a winter weather sleeping system. I have tested the system in subzero actual temperatures with a measurable amount of wind blowing. Overall I would have probably faired better and much preferred a sleeping mat and a sleeping bag rated for the conditions. While a bit cold and having to get up to stoke the fire it was a survivable situation. No, the initial tests were not an all or nothing situation. I started in warmer temperatures and had backups and a quick out. Initial tests were conducted in my backyard. I’m not going to risk my life on something unproven. Then worked my way up or should I say down the scale. Until I had something that I knew would work in extreme conditions. I would say that adding a sleeping bag rated in the teens or twenties would be comfortable in the minus 40’s or stretched to the 50’s. It was not a clothing optional situation as they were part of the insulation used. Besides it made it easier to get up to tend the fire. The insulated poncho liner is wrapped around you and used as a blanket or bedroll. While I never tried it adding a sleeping pad inside the hammock might have made things even more comfortable.

I’ll use compass directions to give some perspective. To start say the wind is blowing from east to west. Of course if you are building such a setup use the actual wind direction to align it. If there is a significant snow cover dig a north south trench. Then hang the hammock so that it fits into the trench without touching the sides or bottom. The trench will act as an additional windbreak. With little or no snow the trench is not necessary. Hang the hammock as close as possible to the ground without touching when fully loaded. The head and foot orientation north to south is whatever is most comfortable for the terrain.

A lean-to frame is the constructed to surround the hammock. The low side points east with the opening toward the west. The top of the lean-to is made so that it barely clears the top of the hammock system. It should extend far enough that when finished the hammock is completely enclosed on the ends and top. Obviously the downwind side is left open.

The emergency space blanket is the draped over the frame. Because of the fragile nature of the blanket it is then covered with the poncho. This gives you a reflective, water and relatively wind tight roof. Then the roof and sides can be covered and enclose with brush, branches, snow or debris to form a more solid shelter. The space blanket liner of the poncho is erected a short distance from and across the opening of the lean-to at the west end. The spacing is such that a fire can be built between them. The different space blankets are in these positions because of their differences in strength to withstand the stresses they will be subjected to. What the combined reflective qualities of the two blankets do is form a reflector oven. The back reflector pushes much of the heat of the fire into the shelter and the roof blanket directs that heat down to where you are sleeping. Only instead of baking biscuits you become the roast.

If there are to be others involved with similar set-ups. The fire reflector can be eliminated. Then the other lean-tos involved can surround the fire to reflect towards each other. Although if there are not enough to enclose the fire the reflector can be erected to fill the gap. This set up will work for about 4 but maybe be pushed to 5. Any more would require separate areas and fires. While common corners can be used in construction. Make sure that at least one corner is left open for access. It’s a real pain to have to climb over the lean-tos to get in and out.

If there is little or no snow the entire setup could be improved by including a hot rock bed as described by Ron Hood. If this is used you might want to lower the hammock even more so that it can actually touch the ground. While the system can be setup in a relatively short time. If the hot rock bed is to be included you will need to add a couple of hours to the prep time. First to sufficiently heat the rocks and for the time to bake the moisture out of the soil. You don’t really want to start your night in a steam bath. When things cool as the night passes that steam will condense and make you wet and even colder.

Either system are by their nature are one night setups for someone on the move. But if you are going to be in a single location for a period of time it might be worth the effort and time to improve on the hot rock bed concept and go with the hot draft bed. This is a similar concept of heating the sleeping area with fire but is reusable. Several, usually 3, trenches are dug then roofed over with sticks as then covered over with the dug up dirt. The trenches are about a foot wide, 6 to 12 inches deep and spaced about a foot apart This heats an area about 6 feet wide by however long the trenches are. Figure 3 to 4 feet long for one person and up to about 10 feet for 3 or 4 person sleeping area. 10 feet is about the maximum useable length. If you need to accommodate more people you will need to construct additional bedding areas. At the both ends the trenches converge to a single underground point. At one end typically the downwind end a chimney of at least 3 feet tall is built from available rocks. The chimney is then packed with mud, clay or even dirt to seal the cracks. A fire is then built in the hole at the other end formed by the converging trenches. The effect is that the smoke but more importantly the heat from the fire travels through the trenches and up the chimney. It takes a while to heat up and drive the moisture out of the soil in the sleeping area. The nice thing is that once built. Simply by building another fire you can use it over and over again. Such a sleeping system can be used in the open but can be improved by being roofed. But if roofed the chimney must extend above it.

I hope that some out there can find some ideas that are useful.

There may be some good info in there, but it is excessive as a forum post. I would advise in the future such articles ought to be broken down into smaller, digestible portions so that the readers aren't overwhelmed. One or two paragraphs at a time would be a lot more user friendly in a venue such as this.

Still, appreciate the effort.

Good info in there, I think, I got pooped out working my way thru it. You do win the blue ribbon OBG award for longest post tho...

All three are very good comprehensive reads. It's much easier to cut and paste into a Word file and read off-line. One niggly though -- the spelling is cache, not cashe.

Also, it is pronounced like "cash," not "cash-ay." The latter is the pronunciation for "cachet." If I hear one more news reader or military spokesperson mispronounce "cache" I think I'll scream!

Jeff

I cut and pasted that post onto a Word document and it was 14 pages and 11,033 words!!!

Thanks for the info on Hammocks! I've been trying to decide between shelter choices for my BOB. I just bought a simple hammock and a poncho shelter to try out empirically on a backpacking trip here very soon. If it works I'll have to upgrade to the Hennessey variety.

Cheers,