There are so many Mora knives that I am lost (that's not too dificult). If you have to buy just one to carry in the field with you for hunting and survival in case you get lost, which model you would pick?

I don't own this one personally, but this seems to be what you're looking for: Swedish Survival Knife

There's a review of it online somewhere, but unfortunately I can't find it now. It does seem to be a pretty decent all around knife for both hunting and survival tasks.

I only have one Mora, the "...Classic Mora Knife with red wooden handle and 4" laminated steel blade - Model S1...", so I can only comment on it. It is a good blade, 'specially for the price. There are many knives by many makers that are much tougher than the Mora, but they cost mucho more too...

There are two reviews for the MORA 2000. Since both websites have lots of fun reading, I am going to be lazy and let you find the specific article. www.outdoors-magazine.com compares a 2000 vs a Grohmann-Russel and www.cutlery science.com reviews the 2000.My current carry is the Craftsman in laminated carbon steel.Like it's swedish service issue brother in Stainless ( ragweedforge acquired a mistaken run made in carbon also, so you have 3 choices) you get a knife with a lanyard loop,lower fingerguard, @ 4" drop point blade and a serviceable, if cheap and ugly sheath. What you don't get is a perfect edge in spite of excellent OOB performance. The edges are actually slightly hollowground and uneven.That is the price of mass produced knives for so little pocket change. A little work, as described in these articles and you have outstanding edges. I carry the Craftsman for the laminated toughness and thickness of the blade,equal to a 2000. I also carry it for economics. At $11 vs $30 something for the 2000 I have 3 knives.It's really hard to go wrong with any Mora. Just respect the limitations, remembering they reflect a specific tradition and environ of use.

"...It's really hard to go wrong with any Mora. Just respect the limitations, remembering they reflect a specific tradition and environ of use."

Chris, I THINK I know what you mean by that, but I wonder if you could be a little more specific. I have looked at the Moras and at the lower end Cold Steel products (Finn Bear, Canadian, etc.,)in terms of a reasonably able, inexpensive utility knife, but I'd like to know what you feel the limits of the Mora's "utility" might be.

Frank2135

I think it's an unwritten equation that most who use a Mora eventually succumbs to the more traditional scandinavian blades. By traditional I mean those pretty knives with figured birch, cariboo bone and brass fittings with a dangler leather sheath embossed with motiffs out of Pier Gynt. These blades are the result of a long tradition of northern arboreal and marine use;carving wood, processing reindeer,fish and sometimes unruly vikings. There is even a method for SLOWLY felling those small diameter birch trees. The limitations are when this design, and usefull knives in this size are hardly restricted to Lappland emigrate to 21st century expectations of survivalists. We like blades that can take abuse doing non knife stuff. This has translated into a thicker blade with a full vs rattail tang, often a convex ( aka Moran) edge for durability and modern materials in both steel, handle and sheath. Sadly, we all know this can get silly with offerings the size of swords, names and metallurgy that humbles Lord of the Rings mithril steel and Sting with a price tag equal to Smaug's treasure hoard. I started out after my excellent adventure with the USAF survival knife being gifted with a Puukko, acquiring a Linder boat knife and then showing up to survival schools that either promoted Grizzly Adams signed bowies or overcharged a $1.98 for Moras. I finally acquired a Fallkniven F1. Thankfully it has a stain resistant blade, considering it spends most of the time in my rucksack waiting, hoping I'll 'get stupid' and I never tried stabbing my old Volvo's door with it .

Hi Joaquin39,

Good question on the "best" Mora knife.

I cannot tell you what is the best Mora because I have not tried them all but I do own 6 of them.

My traditional Mora (very old 6" carbon steel, oval wood handle) is a great knife, I keep it in my truck for whenever I need a basic knife to do, anything? I most often use it when I am having cook-outs with my family, it just seems to always be there when I need it. I can get it very sharp and it holds an edge well but I an not crazy about the oval handle and would prefer a finger gaurd on it. The sheath is a traditional dangler, friction fit, nothing fancy.

I also have a new Craftsman with a carbon Tri-flex blade, this knife I can sharpen-up scary sharp but I cannot get use to the plastic handle. It is not that I am against plastic handles it is just that the dimensions of this one are all wrong for my hand. I have recently been contemplating removing the handle and replacing it with a homemade wooden one of a better shape for me. The sheath for this knife is a cheap piece of plastic unit that I do not even like looking at; bottom line, love the blade, hate the rest.

The next 4 Mora knives I have are some version of the Clipper (carbon or stainless steel). If there is a synthetic knife handle that fits me perfect it is this rubberized handle, I even pass it to friends just to see how they react. I have been able to get the stainless blade sharp but I can get the carbon model just a little sharper. It will take the hair off your forearm with just the slightest of force. The knife is the right size and weight for me (I usually carry an axe or machete if I intend to do some chopping/clearing) and I often decide which Clipper I am going to carry by how well I am going to treat the blade (e.g. wet adventure I take the stainless). I am not found of the Clipper sheath but I like it better than the slim one on the Craftsman. I find the Clipper sheath rigid and pops off your belt when pushed up from the bottom, if you search the forum I did a thread on Clipper Sheath modification about a month ago (sorry, I do not know how to do the link). The snap in/out feature of the sheath I like.

I was introduced on how to sharpen a Scandi knife on this forum over the past year and it is the simplest method I have ever used, I sharpened my original Mora wrong for 30 years!

Sorry for the long reply but my advise is try to handle a variety of Mora's to pick the one that fits you best or do like I did and order a bunch through the catalog, they are so inexpensive you should have a few.

Mike

Just look at the Moras the experts carry. Cody Lundin (98.6) carries one of the red handled Moras.

I have at home and have tried the Frost S-1 and 164, the KJ Eriksson 510, 545 and 911. I have split wood with battening, made fire boards, and carved fine tinder that will start with a ferro rod. They all work very well. I must say that the handle on the S-1 is the most comfortable when you are applying a lot of pressure. There are no bumps to create pressure points while you are working. Also the S-1 with the laminated blade seems to get sharper. The back of the blade is much smoother than the other Moras. This makes it more comfortable to use. I did feel it was necessary to grind down a small part the the edge where it is close to the handle. This also created the perfect place to scrape a ferro rod.

Let me describe a new technique I have been using with the ferro rod and a scrapper. You can hold the scrapper and pull the ferro rod away or you can hold the rod and push down the scrapper. Most experts hold the ferro rod and push down the scrapper. It does work better but I keep scrapping my knuckles on the hand with the scrapper.

Here is what I do now: put your foot close to the tinder. Rest your hand holding the scrapper against your shoe/foot. Now pull the ferro rod away. Because the scrapper is very stable you get a lot more sparks than if you are free holding the scrapper. Because you have the scrapper at the right spot, your shower of sparks goes where it will do the most good.

Give it a try and tell us what you think.

Having said nice things about the Mora I have to add that I only carry one for fine work. I carry a Cold Steel SRK for prying fat wood from stumps and other heavy tasks. My Camelbak always has: a Mora, an SRK and a Gerber Sportsman's saw. I also keep a Leatherman Charge Ti clipped in my pocket.

The Outdoors Magazine review was the one I was thinking of, but none of the google search critera I was thinking of brought it up. I'll save a few people sometime and post the link here: Mora 2000

and simple simons advice is, (guess what?)read this sites gear advice :-)

"Some moderate cost production knives to consider include the:
.....
KJ Eriksson Mora Knife Model 731 (carbon steel balde), Model 748 (stainless steel blade) and Model 2000

(The Mora is favored by a number of survival instructors as a practical and inexpensive fixed blade, though less robust than the blades above.)
You may have to modify the knife you select in order to get all the features you want in a survival knife, especially if you're on a budget. Obviously, you can spend a lot more for a "better knife." But, these knives meet all the minimum criteria for a dependable survival knife at a not unreasonable cost, and in the case of the Mora, truely inexpensive."