I knew that I was going to be sitting beside the river all afternoon and evening today so I took a bunch of small portable saws with me to play with. This test was completely unscientific and just involved me using each tool to determine which one I liked best; I am constructing a new pocket Personal Survival Kit and needed to know which one to include.

The saws were, in smallest to largest order:

-Coghlins 8 strand "Commando" wire saw with wrist straps.
-Carbon hacksaw blade (the teeth are fine, about 24/inch)
-Reciprocating saw blade (10 teeth to the inch)
-Leatherman TTi saw (not in photo, Duh)
-Swiss Army Knife (SAK) Farmer model
-German Army Knife (GAK) Saw (old model)
-SAK Rucksack model Saw
-SAK One Handed Trekker model saw
-Bacho Laplander Folding saw
-Sawvivor Folding Saw

The tools can be seen in the image below:

Small Survival Saws (sorry about the flash spot)

I tested the saws on green poplar and dry cherry. About the size of wood you would use to make a lean-to shelter, 2 - 3 inches in diameter.

I started with the wire saw, and even though I have had luck with them in the past it was a complete failure today. It bound-up and cut very poorly, only cutting in about 1/2" before it got very tough to pull. The crimped-end connector then broke; so I constructed a bow saw out of it but it did no better, I will not put these in a PSK again.

The wire caw is not to be confused with the flexible "Chainsaw in a Can" type saw which I know cuts great, I just could not find it in my storage area today to include in the test.

The hacksaw blade and reciprocating saw blade also did poorly, they would have cut better with a proper handle, but they did not bite into the wood well and the teeth got clogged. Poor choices.

I expected the German Army saw to do better and it did, but the kerf was a little too wide, the blade short, and it only cut on the pull stroke; it was still not great.

The Leatherman and all the Swiss Army Knives (SAKs) can be lumped together. They all cut well for there size, the longer the blade the better they cut. They all cut through 2" of dry cherry with minimal effort, very functional tools for small material, short term use.

The Bacho Laplander folding saw was amazing compared to the smaller saws, it cut through a 6 inch dry cherry limb with little effort. Excellent tool.

I am a little undecided on the Sawvivor, it cut well once I got the cut started but tended to bounce in the beginning due to the coarse teeth. I think it would have performed better if the wood was held more securely, I need to test it some more.

In conclusion; the wire saw, utility blades and especially the German Army knife were disappointments. I will now need to reconsider my proposed PSK container to accommodate a larger tool, either the SAK Farmer or Rucksack I think.

As always everything we use is a compromise, function vs portability.

Mike

Coghlins has the well deserved reputation of taking very basic items and reverse engineering all quality out.
There is one wire saw worth having, and one only; the BCB original whose origin was as WW2 escape kit for silently and slowly cutting seasoned timber, ie Stalag Luft 17 barracks & bed slats ( tunnel shoring.)Carried concealed in a dress tunic collar or Altoid tin, they are still the lightest sawing option.
And ironically, while some survivalist's have sold surgical bone cutting wire saws to the gullible public( to whit, they are awfull on anything but fresh bone) the BCB does a credible job of cutting game bones.
They are slow and require TLC. And if they are the only tool still better than hacking away with a knife to exaustion or chilling by perspiration. When you are cold or tired, the deliberation of carefully sawing shelter poles is much safer than hackiing with a knife. A basic shelter, a squaw fire and then you can tackle bigger chores.
The saws on the various SAKS ( your surplus german pocketknife was supposedly spanish or swiss made, depending on who is talking) should be good with european woodworking history. And for making small, precise notches such as deadfalls, shelter lashing cuts and field packframes or snowshoes they are splendid.
For serious wood processing the sawvivore should be the best.
It has the advanced rakers, cutting teeth and gullets found on the finest of crosscut saws. If you pick up a manual on crosscuts, that blade can be tuned for even better performance and less 'jump' in the initial cut.

And finally a word on field maintenance. Sap will indeed 'sap' any saw to uselessness in short order.
The old timbercutters carried a oil can of kerosene to strip the blades clean periodically.Kerosene isn't something I care to pack with any foodstores remotely nearby. But a small alcohol wipe from a first aid kit, boiling hot water or just a wipe with any protective oil can help greatly.

I mostly use the Bacho Laplander saw when I go hiking and camping and am considering getting a Sven saw too.

www.crosscutsaw.com these folks have been around for at least 30 years.

I have a SAK Farmer with my RSK. Size wise it's a good match. Any SAK with a saw will do for short term use.

that what i thought about the wire saws,you need the best and have to work slow.the last time i used one was in the 60's-Scouts--and not since then because it was such a hassle to get to work. the SAK saw is a wonder.i never had one untill my wife gave me a Farmer model for my birthday and since then i use it to cuts sticks for the dogs to chase and was surprised the first time i used it--it really works!..Sven makes a short model of their saw and i take it on canoe trips.it will buzz thru fire wood size sticks in no time and i have cut some good size dead fall from portage trails with it..now if someone made a SAK style and quality saw that was a bit bigger than the one that comes in the knife that would be a choice bit of gear.the folding pruning saws are close to that quality--has anyone looked at the saws from Japan?.they seem to have some that cut both ways.

Hi All,

Chris, I have never tried or even seen a BCB wire saw, it would have to be better than the Coghlin's, maybe I will buy a kit from England with one included.

I was also given my first SAK when I was a Scout and I still have it today. It was my EDC for about 10 years and I used the saw to trim branches while using a climbing treestand, the SAK saw is amazing for it's size.

CANOEDOGS you should try the Bacho Laplander saw as it does cut in both directions, it was money well spent.

I have a couple other saws to test; a Wyoming saw (the meat saw is excellent but I have never used the wood blade), a Trailblazer saw (collapses into a tube) and a "What-A-Saw" that folds down.

I also had a Mora Clipper knife with me yesterday and it was quicker to cut 2" green poplar with it buy bending the stem down and shearing it off. Of course this would not work at all on dry or larger wood.

Mike

For a larger SAK type saw OPINEL has one available ( expensive.) It has very aggressive teeth. The handle retains the comfortable shape and locking rings of the knives. The blade is actually more flexible than a SAK and enjoys a deeper belly.

And it work's. Oh yes, it works.

Expensive is a relative term. If you look after it, you will only ever buy one. As apposed to however many cheaper saws.

Good info Mike. My lowest level of saw would be on a Trekker SAK. They work well on smaller stuff. The Bacho Laplander is what I carry if I have any "real" sawing to do. It is worth the extra weight and size. One resides in my box camping kit, one is in my ATV. One is in my day pack/larger pack. I have used these for years without disappointment.