Well, technically I am in the heart of Baghdad, but I am in the IZ, or international zone, where we're pretty much cordoned off from the rest of the capital. I can move more or less freely throughout the IZ, of course there are still plenty of risks even here where patrols are heavy, you might get sniped or mortared or some people have even been nabbed walking down the main street sidewalk at the wrong time. Outside of the IZ is called the Red zone, and there are a few places a big white boy like me can move around without a bullseye on his back, but for the most part, you don't go anywhere in the Red zone unless you are well camoflauged or have a security detail with you. The safest mode of travel here for me may be to drive an old toyota pickup all beat to hell with bailing wire holding the muffler on, doing about 40mph on the freeway max, belching oil smoke, with a goat tethered in the back of the rig. Of course I would have to wear the traditional red checkered head scarf and man dress, and shoe polish my pink irish face a little, but I might be able to pull it off. Lord help me if that toyota quits and I have to thumb a ride. It would be better to untie the goat and ride it back into town. My arabic still isn't too good.

Mostly, I just drive to wherever I need to go in the IZ, and take a security team if I leave the IZ for anything.

I live by this philosophy: Chance favors the prepared mind.