My focus is consumer blades (where there is a desperate need for basic sharpening). I send super-fancy blades to super-fancy shops, where their high priests determine how many angels can dance on the apex of super-hardened steel .

I find that it's the overall blade geometry, not just the sharpening angle, that determines the cutting ability of a blade.

I typically sharpen around 22.5 degrees. That supports the edge in mid-range knife steels for long life, and it's an angle people can find with a butcher's-steel-realignment-device: half of 90 is 45, and then half of 45 is 22.5.

But to get that sweet glide-through cutting ability, I put a third bevel on most blades. Essentially, I'm laying the blade almost flat on the stone or belt, and polishing off the point where the edge (secondary bevel) and the main "wedge" of the blade (primary bevel) meet. It takes great care not to scuff up the blade, but the results are very, very nice. Blades done this way glide through onions and survive whole chickens.

The Vic Fibrox chef knives I have seen have a very thick blade. (I've seen other thin Vic's, but not a Fibrox yet) This is typical of basic commercial-kitchen blades that are mechanically sharpened every week or so; it ensures long in-service life, but gives quite a fat profile. The compromise is to lay them almost flat on a slack section of the sanding belt, and the natural catenary imparts an arch instead of a hard angle, improving the cutting ability somewhat. But with some work on a hand stone, the third bevel I mentioned can be achieved, and it will make a huge difference.

Hope that helps. Easy to visualize, hard to paint with words.