Originally Posted By: clearwater
More stuff on knot strength.

"A figure eight follow through, for instance, is often cited as having 80% of the strength of the rope. In our tests this ranged from 100% – it did not fail at the knot in climbing ropes in about a quarter of cases, including in a UIAA fall test that we observed – to near 50% in 5.5 Spectra/Titan cord. "

"Nor does it matter if the eight knot is “sloppy” or “neat”. In fact we tested quite a few figure eight knots, in a variety of ropes, that were improperly tied so that the last pass of the “follow-through” was not made. Did it matter? Drum roll please: sometimes it tested stronger than the “correct” eight and in a third of our tests it did not break at the knot."

http://efclimbers.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Knot-and-cord-strength.pdf


Yeah, but try to untie after falling hard on a figure eight knot...

Not related to strength, but if people do not dress the knot correctly or tied is rather sloppy, I'll just tell them to redo it. Got to keep people from getting too sloppy with everything. You can often see one sloppy thing leading to another.
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