I've been canoeing up there since I was a teenager, long before GPS. In fact, the most memorable time I got disoriented was one of the first times I was following the GPS, and it wasn't quite matching up with the shoreline. I wandered into the wrong bay of an island on Seagull, thinking it was the one that went through. No big deal, we just had to paddle an extra mile or so. But it was an eye opener, to use paper and compass as primary, and the GPS as backup.

I learned how to use declination back in the day, when it was like 6º, but I don't usually bother now that it's down to about 2º.

My usual procedure is to take a bearing on the map, find a landmark with the compass, and paddle towards that. As a lifelong sailor, I also use the wind as a secondary compass- if the wind direction changes in an unexpected way, it's time to double-check the compass.

I really do need to get a PLB. I got my Ham radio license recently for other reasons. I'm told the repeater network is usually reachable with a handheld, particularly if you're on the far side of the lake from the nearest repeater. So I'll be bringing my handheld next time and trying it out.