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#99961 - 07/16/07 02:04 PM Re: Starting fires by the flint and steel method [Re: ironraven]
atoz Offline
Member

Registered: 01/25/06
Posts: 144
Loc: Nevada
Well I got frustreate one day using a ferro rod to do a fire and did it with one of those small razor knifes and got as much if not more sparks then with a carbon blade. Ferro rods work by scrapping off the alloy of the ferro material not by scrapping off the steel of a high carbon steel blade when using flint. I know the teeth of a hacksaw blade works better then the back of a hacksaw blade, it is harder, for making lots of sparks. So it is most likely what ever is harder, rockwell number, probable will work the best.

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#99962 - 07/16/07 02:06 PM Re: Starting fires by the flint and steel method [Re: BigCityHillbilly]
atoz Offline
Member

Registered: 01/25/06
Posts: 144
Loc: Nevada
are you using the edge of the knife or the back of the knife. If you use the edge then whatever has the greatest hardness will work best.
cheers

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#99963 - 07/16/07 02:13 PM Re: Starting fires by the flint and steel method [Re: Frank2135]
atoz Offline
Member

Registered: 01/25/06
Posts: 144
Loc: Nevada
I have seen on some carbon steel knive, just my opnion, that they will dull if left for a time period. This may be due to oxidation to the cutting edge. I know if you using the knife a lot your probable keeping it sharp constantly. But if left to sit for a time, not nessacarily year, the blade will seem duller then when you last used it. Just an observation and I guess a question.
cheers

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#99965 - 07/16/07 02:24 PM Re: Starting fires by the flint and steel method [Re: atoz]
OldBaldGuy Offline
Geezer

Registered: 09/30/01
Posts: 5695
Loc: Former AFB in CA, recouping fr...
Hardness is great, but ya gotta have sharp too, or no sparks...
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#99972 - 07/16/07 02:58 PM Re: Starting fires by the flint and steel method [Re: OldBaldGuy]
atoz Offline
Member

Registered: 01/25/06
Posts: 144
Loc: Nevada
I agree one hundred precent. It is the ability to scrap off the alloy that does it.
cheers

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#99984 - 07/16/07 07:32 PM Re: Starting fires by the flint and steel method [Re: atoz]
Leigh_Ratcliffe Offline
Veteran

Registered: 03/31/06
Posts: 1355
Loc: United Kingdom.
That may be due to Ion exchange between the edge & the scabbard. That is the reason why Indian Tulwar & Japanese Katana et al blades have a rigid scabbard that the blade does not touch. It's one of the more esoteric quirks of metallurgy.

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#100005 - 07/17/07 02:54 AM Re: Starting fires by the flint and steel method [Re: BigCityHillbilly]
MDinana Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/08/07
Posts: 2208
Loc: Beer&Cheese country
Originally Posted By: BigCityHillbilly


I wonder if anything can be done to high carbon steel to keep it from rusting out, short of keeping it well-oiled. It doesn't make a whole lot of sense to keep a bottle of oil in your backpack where it's going to leak all over the place, but if I knew of a chemical treatment that would keep it from rusting out, then I would seriously consider going with carbon steel.

LW.


A teacher once told me a trick used with black powder rifles: wipe the oil off the crease of your nose (the outside, where the nostril meets your cheek). While he was talking about moistening the patch for the powder and ball, it might work well. After all, lots of guys make plenty of oils (NOT Sweat!!).

Another thought would be an to wipe an oily plant leaf on it. Not sure I can think of any, but just brain-storming here.

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#100086 - 07/18/07 03:27 AM Re: Starting fires by the flint and steel method [Re: BigCityHillbilly]
John Offline
stranger

Registered: 07/18/07
Posts: 2
I don't know much about the magnesium fire starters (I have one but have never used it). But I do have some experience with char cloth.

Char cloth is a luxury item that you can create once you have fire. It is not designed to catch and hold a spark from your flint & steel or other primitive fire starting method, but it is instead meant to be hit by the spark and become a much larger ember. It is only meant to be used once. That is the drawback of it. On the up side, though, it is very good at catching a spark and then turning itself into a much larger ember.

For my char cloth I use 100% cotton 50-caliber cleaning patches. While they do shrink a little when I turn them into char cloth, one patch is enough for me to get a fire going. But, it all depends on the material you are using for your tinder bundle! The tinder bundle is very crucial. It doesn't matter how good of a spark you get or how good of an ember you get, if your tinder bundle is too damp or not fine enough or a bunch of other things you won't get it lit. I suggest that you do some google searches for "tinder bundle" and see if you can find information on good materials for the area in which you live.

As for me, I try to use a combination of cedar and birch bark. And, as others have mentioned, tinder fungus is a GREAT material, especially if combinded with other tinder materials in your tinder bundle. A friend of mine likes to make a "taco" out of a large piece of birch bark which he then fills with shreded, dried birch bark, tinder fungus, very fine, very dry wood shavings and some "sawdust" that he createds by scraping his knife blade across the wood he is getting his shavings from. Your tinder bundle should look like a bird's nest with the easiest lit materials in the middle, which is where the ember is placed. You will have to experiment and find the best way to place your ember or char cloth into the bundle so that it will easily ignite the material. When I use char cloth I reserve a bit of the finest tinder material, place the char cloth in the middle of the nest, and then put the reserved tinder material on it. As for my friend's tinder taco, the material is still in a nest shape, though oval, and the outer layer of birch bark (the taco shell) just makes it easy to hold.

As I said, you have to just find the best materials in your area and practice. For this, char cloth is great because you can cheat. To get used to using char cloth I would prepare a tinder bundle and then light the middle with a match and get it burning. This was just done for practice and was usually done on my back porch or while out camping. I was already good at getting a spark through various methods, but I felt this was just the easiest way to get used to using char cloth. Once I got down the proper tinder, then it was much easier (and a LOT less frustrating) to get a spark and ember using flint and steel and a char cloth and then ignite my tinder bundle.

Good luck and don't get discouraged!


Take care and have a great day....



ciao,
john.


PS I've found the easiest way to make char cloth is to simply place your material loosely into a tin can, cover tightly with some heavy duty tin foil, and then poke a hole in the tin foil with a push pin. Then, place on the coals of your fire, bank some coals around it, and then let is sit for 6-8 minutes. That's it.

PPS You should check out fire pistons! They are really cool, fun, and by far the easiest way to get an ember.


Edited by John (07/18/07 03:36 AM)

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#100087 - 07/18/07 03:31 AM Re: Starting fires by the flint and steel method [Re: John]
Blast Offline
INTERCEPTOR
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/15/02
Posts: 3760
Loc: TX
John,

Great first post! Welcome to the fire.

-Blast
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#100096 - 07/18/07 01:04 PM Re: Starting fires by the flint and steel method [Re: John]
OldBaldGuy Offline
Geezer

Registered: 09/30/01
Posts: 5695
Loc: Former AFB in CA, recouping fr...
Welcome Newguy, and thanks for that info...
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