There is also a sheath and the handles are machined out of G10, not molded. It all adds up. Yes, might be somewhat less expensive to use a non-stainless non-tool steel, but I see no reason to go that way as the price savings wouldn't be huge and the performance would take a hit.

As for batoning, you can baton the Mk3 through anything that will accommodate its blade length. I usually start by slicing off slabs around the edge on bigger logs since you're primarily aiming to get at dry wood and the wet usually doesn't penetrate all that deep.

If you're looking for a thick-bladed carbon steel blade, then the Becker BK10 Crewman can be had for $55. I think a modified version of that blade was Doug's "other" project that got sidelined due to the Camillus business issues.

I see the Mk3 as more of a high-end "slicer" than a "chopper". I don't think it makes make sense to compare the cost of a carbon steel knife to one with an S30V blade. Except for the Cabela's knives, the only S30V fixed blade knives I can find are equal to, or much more expensive than the Mk3:

from knifecenter.com:
Al Mere Operator Fixed Combat Knife - $146.95, retail $219
Becker Extreme - $249.95
Buck Signature Series - $124.95
Chris Reeve Green Beret 7" The Yarborough - $300.00
Chris Reeve Green Beret 5.5" The Yarborough - $289.00
Chris Reeve Neil Roberts Warrior - $328.95
Mercworx Combat Knives - $424.95 to $498.95

From other sites, excluding ebay:
Strider WB Mod 10 Fixed Blade - $325.00
BlackHawk Garra - $215.00
Cabela's Gerber Freeman - $89.00

From what I can tell the Boddington has a rough file-faced surface above the grind. Wouldn't that raise heck for anyone who wants to slide with it? It also seems all those grooves would get gunked up and would be hard to clean. I haven't been able to find a thickness for the Boddington blade. Also the butt-end of the handle has that odd thing protruding. It seems like that would shred arms/hands and get hung up on stuff if worn on a belt.

BTW, I'm not thrilled with a leather sheath on a carbon blade. If the sheath gets wet it will take a loooong time to dry out and will greatly enourage rust on the blade.

OK, but what does the expense of an S30V blade get me? And if a Mk3 is "a high-end "slicer"", slicer of what? I'm looking for a dependable, all-around camp knife that can take a lot of punishment, not just slice onions. The Kbar I usually camp with is older than I am (I'm 39) and will probably outlast me. I'm looking for a couple of extra blades for various BOB's and can't afford a single Mk3, let alone 2 or 3.

Though I really like the looks and design of the Mk3 and have a lot of respect for Doug Ritter and his designs, I could spend that money on other equipment that would be more useful in a BOB than a single knife.

My main blade is a simple, no-nonsense USAF issue survival knife. It is rugged, built for abuse, and looks damned sexy! But, I carry a pocketknife daily (would get odd looks at work wearing a knife on my belt), and chose the MK I, because 1)I have experience with benchmade knives, and like their feel, and 2) this model is the perfect all around carry knife I need. My USAF knife sits comfortably on the side of my backpack, in my jeep.

I did not mean to start an arguement-my needs are different than others, as is my means. I too have several SV30 knives, including a Becker Extreme (my large knife) , and my RSKmk3,which serves a different "need". The Becker is a little tactical and overkill for my normal (hunting, camping) needs.
The Mk3 is much more user friendly, handy and is, in my opinion, a great knife. The price my be "steep", but quality, value and price seem to go hand in hand. The Mk3 may not be your cup of tea, but I would say it is well worth the price.

Ironically the very last thing I cut with my Mk3 WAS an onion. How did you know that????

I do think the S30V keeps an edge much longer than the lower end steel knives I've owned in the past (a Buck folder and a Buck Special - the Special never took a good edge). I tend to prefer stainless steel because I don't have to worry if gunk doesn't get cleaned off for a few days, though even stainless will corrode (my original Boy Scout knife from which I was a kid has corroded because at some point I didn't clean off the can opener). Beyond that I'll point you to this Steel FAQ and a review in BladeForums:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=368828

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1660197#post1660197

The Mk3 with a 0.14" thick blade and high grind will slice onions very well AND is tough enough to take reasonable abuse. It is not built to chop down 8" trees, though I suppose it could be done. It is not designed to batton 8" logs. If you use it to try to pry open a car door, it probably will be damaged. That does not mean it isn't a really tough knife.

If you haven't read Doug's description of the Mk3, you'll find it here:

http://www.equipped.org/rsk_mk3.htm

I don't have multiple kits. I think of mine as being nested. I have a fanny pack that fits inside a daypack that fits inside a duffle. For larger camp items I keep them in plastic tubs that can quickly be loaded into a truck or trailer. I only need one of each expensive item, though I do EDC key items in pockets. So, I only need one good fixed blade knife.

If you are looking for good lower cost fixed blades take a look at the Becker BK10 Crewman with a 0.188" thick blade for about $55. A great heavy blade for the price, but I find mine a bit too thick for a general purpose camp knife. Some complain about its handle size/smoothnes, but I actually like it very much.

If you want even lower cost knives, then look at http://www.ragweedforge.com/SwedishKnifeCatalog.html. The #711, #746, #731, #748, and #749 are great knives in both carbon steel and stainless for under $20 each, though their 0.098" thick blades aren't heavy blades like the Beckers (0.188" thick). The #2000 is also popular, though a bit more expensive $30.

My story, as I've said elsewhere in this forum, is that I first bought the Becker BK10 Crewman but found it too big for a camp knife. I'd heard Doug was coming out with a fixed blade and REALLY liked his folders so I decided to wait. In the mean time I bought two Mora knives - a #746 and a #749 - to tide me by.

Now that I have the Mk3 I am very glad I waited and do think it was worth the cost. I have no plans to buy another fixed blade. The Mora are now stowed in my popup camper and do very nicely as sheathed kitchen knives.

I'll look into that FAQ and review. The reason I'm doing multiple kits with multiple blades is that I want two vehicle kits and a generic house BOB, but don't want to have to raid those kits for gear when I go regular camping. The house BOB is being built on the following idea: If there was an earthquake in the middle of the night, we were buck naked, and only had time to grab one bag per family member on the way out of the building, then each bag better have everything we'll need (clothes, ID, gear, etc.). In the vehicle bags I want a tough enough camp knife in case we get stuck somewhere (like the Kim family) and did not bring any extra gear (like the Kim family).