Well, the idea is certainly sound. I can't comment on how well it's made, you'll have to go by reviews. But I can say that most of the systems that clamp the blade like that have two limitations. First is that the thickness of the clamp itself dictates how low an angle you can achieve before the stone scrapes the clamp. For hunting knives and German kitchen knives that probably won't be an issue but you never know. The other issue is that to do longer knives you will have to unclamp, move the blade and clamp again. This can be annoying and depending on how the design is executed it may be challenging to index the knife at the precise same angle when you do reclamp. The arm that holds the stone looks to be fairly long so that might not be an issue with knives 8" or less but it's hard to say.

Lastly I'm not familiar with it at all so I don't know if you're stuck with the stones supplied or if you can use other stones. Just a cursory look indicates they're 6" long; if that's the case then Edge Pro stones may work, and at least a couple companies manufacture stones that size (including DMT diamond plates/stones). There's a company that's known for industrial abrasives that offers stones in that size at this exact second I can't remember the name.

This gives me a chance to ask a related question ...

There is a YouTube video maker that I enjoy called "Project Farm" that did a video comparing knife sharpeners.

https://youtu.be/uEDyYJJ6f9M

It included the Spiderco Sharpmaker, which I've used for many years, and it rated well for its sharpening capability, BUT the video goes on to stroke the sharpened knives on hardwood, and then measuring the sharpness, and the Sharpmaker sharpened knife failed pretty miserably.

Why would that one sharpener cause a knife to dull so badly? He used the same model of knife for all testing. New, dull it, sharpen it, test sharpness, hardwood, test sharpness. I couldn't tell if he only used one knife per sharpener (sample size = 1). If so, I tend to wonder if he had a bad blade.

Any feedback on this??

BTW, the Lansky with the angle rods and four different grits was found to be excellent for the price.

I really like Project Farm but while he does a great job overall he uses the same approach on everything even when it doesn't necessarily apply. I've used the Sharpmaker before and used to have one. My guess is that he doesn't fully understand how sharpening works, particularly with regard to the burr. Also there's a human factor in using them, especially the Sharpmaker. The Spyderco sharpener is relatively simple but there's still a learning curve and some technique involved. There are also issues with simple testers like he used.

The Sharpmaker works well IMO but it's slow if you need to reprofile a blade. I didn't have the diamond rods which of course would speed up the process. The tool is best used for touch-ups and you're best not letting it get too dully.

Probably he created a fairly large burr and didn't remove it. A wire edge will seem pretty sharp but the work-hardened metal will quickly fail. That's why deburring is such an important step but one he ignored. I usually use a leather belt on my grinder because it works quickly and I'm lazy. But a leather strop, hard felt, some cork or balsa wood or even the end grain of a block of wood will do the job. You need to try not to create a huge burr; that makes removing it easier.