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#294673 - 01/24/20 07:35 PM Ortovox Mountaineering Videos
clearwater Offline
Old Hand

Registered: 03/19/05
Posts: 1163
Loc: Channeled Scablands
A whole series of short videos on mountaineering skills.

For those that like knots/ belay techniques, here is a page of them.


The South Tyrol anchor is a new one to me that I find intriguing.


#294679 - 01/25/20 04:49 PM Re: Ortovox Mountaineering Videos [Re: clearwater]
hikermor Offline
Geezer in Chief

Registered: 08/26/06
Posts: 7324
Loc: southern Cal
Interesting but i think Mountaineering:Freedom of the Hills has a more complete, in depth discussion, among others. The "South Tyrol" anchor seems pretty standard, other than the attachment of the master point carabiner. Is that really significant?
Geezer in Chief

#294713 - 01/27/20 05:37 PM Re: Ortovox Mountaineering Videos [Re: clearwater]
clearwater Offline
Old Hand

Registered: 03/19/05
Posts: 1163
Loc: Channeled Scablands
South Tyrol- Things new to me.

Threading directly thru pitons, bolt hangers and other "Questionable" anchors to save carabiners.
Tying the loop closed with an overhand knot rather than a water knot or double Fishermans. Thought this would slip and roll under tension. Still not sold on this part.
Girth hitching the carabiner with several strands, rather than tying a big overhand knot on a bite. I alway thought this would slip too. What I like about it, is it saves cord otherwise used in the knot. A single runner can reach two bolts 200 centimeters apart. A double runner three, etc. You can get more done with fewer carabiners and runners. Nice for old men carrying gear into the backcountry. The girth hitch is easy to tie and untie with gloves on too.

I also like how they describe the two types of belay anchor systems.
For two large solid bolts - connect them in SERIES.
For two or more traditional "questionable" anchors (pitons, cams,stoppers etc.) connect them WEIGHT DISTRIBUTED.

Simpler than SERENE or ERNEST acronyms. I can't begin to remember what those stand for.

#294716 - 01/27/20 09:06 PM Re: Ortovox Mountaineering Videos [Re: clearwater]
Tjin Online   content

Registered: 04/08/02
Posts: 1776
Connecting in series is pretty much the norm in the german speaking countries and spreading throughout the rest of Europe. Even the French seem to be converting. The danger of a climbing smacking in the wall is considered a higher risk than a bolt failure. The ENSA made a video about it https://youtu.be/eqZQnCGl24A

Overhand seems to be good enough for most things, that how we connect our prussiks and they seem to hold fine. Just make sure it has a nylon sheath. Dyneema can be slippery. Girth-hitch seems to hold fine too, even when only one side is loaded.


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