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#28360 - 06/17/04 11:36 PM Re: Knife Sharpeners
Paul810 Offline

Registered: 03/02/03
Posts: 1428
Loc: NJ, USA
The sterling uses two carbide teeth that remove metal through a scraping motion. They work fine of cheaper knives, but knives with better harder steels it tends to tear up and chip the edge.

#28361 - 06/18/04 01:43 AM Re: Knife Sharpeners
RayW Offline

Registered: 12/06/01
Posts: 552
Loc: Orlando, FL
Joblot, the reason that it is ok to use a sterling style sharpener on a cheap knife is that after a few uses and the knife edge has been destroyed you can then go out and buy a good knife. The carbide insert sharpeners remove far more metal in one pass than any of the other sharpeners listed in this thread and it also wears the edge unevenly. Where i used to work we sharpened knives for customers and i could always tell a knife that had been used with a pull though sharpener, personally i would not use one on a cheap knife. The DMT and the ceramic sharpeners are the way to go, once you learn how the DMT will be the one you reach for.

If you are looking for instruction do you have a hardware store, sporting goods or cutlery shop near you that offers knife sharpening? If there is take in a couple of knives that need sharpening and let them have a go at it then ask how to keep the edge on your knife and most likely you will get a demonstration of how to correctly sharpen a knife. Starting with a sharp knife makes it easier to keep a sharp edge and you can see after a few strokes on a sharpener whether or not you have made your edge less sharp. If you are learning on a very dull knife you may be doing everything correctly but you will most likely get discouraged because you are not seeing any results from your labor. More than once i had someone come in and say, can you sharpen this, I have tried everything and nothing works. When i would ask what they had done they more often than not were doing the right thing (or close enough to get an edge that would cut) but the edge was so far gone that they would give up long before hand sharpening would produce any results. HTH and remember to practice.

#28362 - 06/18/04 07:25 AM Re: Knife Sharpeners

It is my SeBenZa that almost died on that damn Sterling Sharpeners <img src="/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

I now use a DMT diamond sharpener. <img src="/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

But if size is importent, waterproof sandpaper must bee the best I think.

Any experince on this in the field?

#28363 - 06/18/04 03:38 PM Re: Knife Sharpeners
M_a_x Offline
Old Hand

Registered: 08/16/02
Posts: 1035
Loc: Germany
The sandpaper needs an even surface to work properly. That could be hard to achieve in the field. I tried it on my PSK tin and some plastic cards as these are surfaces Iīm likely to have with me. It worked but was no match to the real thing. When you fold the paper it tends to tear on the folding lines. Hence the size is very limited. As I was not really satisfied with it, I ditched it and went for a DMT folding sharpener. The additional bulk is well worth it IMHO.
If it isnīt broken, it doesnīt have enough features yet.

#28364 - 06/18/04 04:04 PM Re: Knife Sharpeners
M_a_x Offline
Old Hand

Registered: 08/16/02
Posts: 1035
Loc: Germany
You are right . Sharpening removes material from your blade. Itīs important how itīs done though.
When you use conventional sharpener the force for grinding is applied on a relatively big surface with many fine grains. Therefore the bending forces on the edge are small. A rough edge will be smoothed. Shapeners like the Sterling bend the knife edge away from a sharp hard edge. In combination with the leverage of the knife you create a lot of bending stress on the edge. A cheap knife is soft enough to just bend. A high quality knife canīt take that much bending because the steel is more brittle. So you break small chunks out of the edge (rip it up). Once that started the motion will become rougher which will make it even worse. When you look at an edge that has been ripped up with such a sharpener you will notice that the edge gets worse towards the tip where you have the longest lever.
If it isnīt broken, it doesnīt have enough features yet.

#28365 - 06/18/04 04:35 PM Re: Knife Sharpeners
Tjin Offline

Registered: 04/08/02
Posts: 1747
i haven't field tested it yet, haven't dulled a knife enough in the field. I was thinking of using my swisscard as a holderfor the sandpaper. I personally keep the knife still and move the sandpaper.

#28366 - 06/19/04 12:28 AM Re: Knife Sharpeners
boatman Offline

Registered: 03/10/03
Posts: 424
Loc: Michigan
I have seen that Stanley Tools has come out with a diamond sharpener.It is made of metal and is the shape and thickness of a credit card.I think it could fit in the standard Altoids tin.I saw it run for $13.95.That is a good price IMHO.

#28367 - 06/19/04 05:32 PM Re: Knife Sharpeners
paulr Offline

Registered: 02/18/04
Posts: 448
Ragweed Forge also sells a credit card sized diamond plate.


#28368 - 06/19/04 05:47 PM Re: Knife Sharpeners

I use diamond DMT stones for scandinavian grinds, and have recently recieved a lansky ceramic hone which appears to work pretty well for touching up secondary bevels and can also be used for sharpening fish hooks, needles etc.

#28369 - 06/20/04 10:06 PM Re: Knife Sharpeners

The diafold is excellent. If you're a novice, it takes a little practice, but if you hold a consistant angle, it can't be beat, and, you can use this on ANY blade, no matter how thick or what the angle of the blade. The pocket sharpener is great too, just not as versatile. I've got a full set of the diafolds (extra coarse down to extra fine) and a few of the pocket sharpeners. The pocket sharpener is great for every-day carry, but if I get a piece in really bad shape, or somebody wants a true shaving edge, I fall back to the diafolds (I'm the guy in my circle that everybody wants to touch up their edges for them).


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