The thread about the poor starving Canadian truckers prompts this inquiry about Everyday Vehicular Carry. Compared to pockets and backpacks, one has many more options and weight is relatively insignificant. So, what is always present in your vehicle?

In SoCal, I try to be relatively prepared for earthquakes. My vehicle is parked in the open and therefore also functions as a safe stash for supplies that might be useful in that event. Hence canteens of water, alcohol stoves and fuel, food (especially coffee and tea!), sleeping bag, jumpsuit, spare parka, small flashlight/headlamp,expensive first aid supplies, and day pack with additional water and food. Also a pry bar so I can gain entry into the homestead.

For the vehicle - jumper cables, shovel, saw, hatchet, small wrench set, quart of oil. Not much for spare parts because it is basically computerized......

When travelling, I am usually carrying gear for backpacking, climbing, or field work, so there is additional useful gear including tent, tarps, etc. Heading for snow country, i would include a tow rope

Interestingly enough, my wife has roughly the same gear, arriving at her choices independently. The threat in SoCal isn't weather, so much as it is the dreaded sig alert and jammed, impassable freeways,leading to many happy hours spent in the car....

So, what's in your car?

Specifically for winter, I add the following to my car:

-snow tires
-snow brush and scraper
-bucket and grain shovel
-extra hat, mitts, wool socks and sweater for everyone
-complete change of clothes for the wee ones
-couple of wool blankets
-chemical hand warmers
-flashlight and extra batteries
-fire starting kit
-couple of SS water bottles
-instant coffee and koolaid
-high fat ready to eat snacks (nuts, fruit, chocolate, etc.)
-a Mountain House meal
-hi-viz vest and toque
-insulated mechanics gloves
-extra pair of boots for me
-jug of winter anti-freeze
-bag of kitty litter or salt
-road flares
-small backpacking tent, blue tarp and some paracord
-extra bic lighter
-extra plastic bags

*Everyone starts bringing their winter coats and snow pants at this time of year too!

My purse also gets beefed up at this time of year:

-extra hat, mitts, socks and buff for myself and my daughter
-my good winter mitts
-esbit emergency stove and tabs
-SS water bottle
-couple of clif bars
-couple packs of instant oatmeal
-instant coffee and koolaid
-chemical hand warmers
-extra heat sheet or SOL emergency bivvy
-extra BIC lighter
-extra plastic bags
-fire starting kit
-a couple of tea lights

I'd add a +20 degree bag (though that should now be 2x) flashlight, spare cell phone and charger (just for calling 911) spare winter jacket, mitts ( choppers) high calorie, shelf stable foods, tiny snow shovel.

As previously discussed, my truck kit is comprised of a 96 hour kit (72 hour kit + more food & water) and my backpack based GHB. The truck kit has a largish FAK, sleeping bag, blankets, extra clothing, both D-cell and AA LED lights, spare batteries, an MSR MicroRocket stove plus fuel canister (in the GHB) and an MSR WhisperLite International stove in a larger container. I can easily hang with the truck for quite a while in an emergency. For trips outside SOCAL (especially in winter) I add a duffel bag with additional winter gear which increases the blankets & cold weather clothing available.

Much of the kit is in waterproof containers, so if I were stuck someplace I could move those containers under the truck, and use a largish nylon tarp to turn the back of the truck into a living space. No need to cook inside the truck's cab, the back is much safer.

The truck is parked in the garage at home, so unfortunately if there is a major earthquake, the first thing on my list is to open the garage door and move the truck out to the street. Then I assess damage if any and shut off the natural gas.

My setup doesn't really change in the winter, except for snowtires, snow scrapper and brushes and when i'm going abroad snowchains (snowchains are illegal to use in my country).

From memory; so i probably forgetting things:

For road side issues:
- Trifold shovel
- Traxion plates (very effective and less messy then gritt)
- Towstrap
- Jumpercables
- LED flares 4x
- Flashlights
- gloves
- multitool
- Hi-viz vests 5x
- Warning triangle 2x

Spare parts:
- Fuses
- Light bulbs
- Plugs and tools
- valve cores and tool
- wire
- Zipties
- Spare batteries (AA and AAA)
(also spare tire, jack, tire iron)

Little survival kit:
- Trangia mess kit as container/cooking vessel
- Esbit stove
- Emergency blanket
- Whistle
- Mirror
- Waterbag
- purification tablets
- Lighter and matches
- Manual chain saw
- Small knife
- candles
- 72 hours lifeboard ration (not in the mess kit, but stored in the same bag)

Randomly put:
- Blanket
- Pillow
- Waterbottles
- Hand sanitizer
- toilet paper

My main emergency kit lives in my car:

• Technology / lighting / battery module
• Knife / saw / tools module
• Warmth / shelter module
• Medical module
• Admin / reference module
• Navigation module
• Comms module
• Water / Food module
• Hygiene module
• Defense module

This is in one (fairly heavy) bag that's "wife-portable" for shorter distances. In the unlikely event that a longer walk is called for, we'd need to divide the load or dump some of it.

The winter module is added on to that:

• Snow brush / ice scraper (heavy-duty, extendable model made of stainless steel
• Voile Telepro avalanche shovel
• entrenching tool
• extreme cold weather sleep system
• Work gloves
• Extra cold weather gloves
• Extra parka
• Dry clothes

There's a car-specific kit that has some relevant components:

• Good spare tire
• Working jack and lug wrench
• Two feet of steel pipe to use as a cheater bar for lug wrench
• Tow strap
• Thick jumper cables
• Costco "jump pack" jumpstarter/compressor/area light, charged monthly
• Galvanized wire
• tire plug kit
• Alumaseal
• self-fusing silicone tape
• Assortment of auto fuses
• four hose clamps

Um, I'd shut off the gas first.

Exactly. Shut off the gas first.

http://quaketips.blogspot.com/2013/05/should-i-turn-my-gas-off-after.html

This and other sources suggest that turning off the gas should not be done in a knee jerk fashion. It may be a while before you can get the utility company to turn it back on. On the other hand, if you turn the gas off, it is indeed off.

The decision will vary with the circumstances. I would be just as aware of downed electric wires, among the many potential haards, as leaking gas.

I agree. Whether or not to turn it off after an earthquake depends on the circumstances.

I would certainly turn it off if I detected any hint of leaking gas. I would also likely turn it off if there were indications of significant structural damage to the house. On the other hand, absent any indication of leaking gas, and if there were no serious structural damage, I would probably leave it on.

By the way, it is possible to turn it back on yourself, at least for the set up at my house. The gas guy showed me how to do it (though he probably wasn't supposed to). It was actually quite simple, at least for my place.

The context of the discussion was "so unfortunately if there is a major earthquake." Perhaps then not everyone is in agreement of what a major earthquake is. Two times in my life, I have witnessed the disastrous effects of an unknown gas leak and don't wish to see a third and would not hesitate to turn off the gas in a "major earthquake."

Obviously, a major EQ is one that causes leaks in your building! And it probably better to be safe than sorry since fires are a frequent aftermath of EQs. Still, think a bit before shutting down. If you smell gas, it is a nobrainer.

FWIW, I carry a dedicated shut off tool in my CERT pack and I have the means to shut down all utilities stashed beneath the bed.....

I live in downtown Washington, D.C. and strive to have my Honda Element equipped so that I can at least somewhat comfortably endure a couple days stranded in the car -- in any weather. I alter the contents during spring and late fall. The Element itself is a great piece of "gear" -- with seats designed to fold flat for sleeping. Below is, approximately, what is in the car for this winter.


Car Safety & Tools
jumper cables, tire air compressor, reflective triangle, strobe flares
blaze orange jacket & blaze orange LL Bean LED hat
headlamps, flashlights & batteries
tools: screwdrivers, wrench, Leatherman Wave, silcock, bike tools
pry bar, duct tape, seatbelt cutter/window breaker, cold steel shovel
old-fashioned book maps (DC-VA-WV-MD/DE & USA Road Atlas)

Warmth
hiking boots (Gore-Tex), Gore-Tex gaiters, Smartwool socks, extra shoe laces
down booties, neck-gaiter, balaclava, ear muffs,
rain hat, gloves, glove liners
long underwear, snow pants
chemical hand warmers
poncho & umbrella
fleece sleeping bag liner (20-degree bag during Jan-Feb)
fleece blankets (4 - black ones I keep in the car to conceal gear)

Water & Food
(4) 32 oz Nalgene canteens
energy bars, nuts, Lipton noodle soup, tea bags

Survival Gear
backpack, walking pole w/cane handle
Cash (small bills)
First-aid kit & guide
Fire stuff: matches, Bic lighters, fire-steels, fire starters
Folding saw, knives, Gransfors Bruks belt axe
Nuwick 120-hour candle
Esbit camping cook kit
Canteen cup & GSR cup & stainless Sierra cups
Compass - Suunto MC-2 D
Moleskines + pens (Sharpies)
Bronner's Soap
Blaze orange bandannas
Paracord (neon orange & yellow), garbage bags, tarp
AMK Heat-sheets, bivy
AM-FM portable radio & batteries

Purse

saving this inventory for the sequel



.

Winter and sub-zero temps are definitely here now. I almost wiped out yesterday thanks to the ice on my driveway, so
I also added a set of micro spikes and a trekking pole.

I sold my Jeep last year, which was really uncomfortable to sleep in, and moved into a Mazda 5. It's got third row seat which fold down flat. Nice little shelter area if we needed it. I'm probably going to miss the Jeep's 4WD but the car is way better on gas and has lots of space inside. I love being able to fold those seats down and stash stuff there, and still having back seats for the kids.



I saw something like that the other day and suggested to my son that it would make a great Christmas present for his mom.



Great idea! Extra warmth that takes up very little space. I always debate the merits of extra clothing that requires me to undress to put it on, but it's amazing what a difference a pair of long johns can make - and if they're styled right, we girls could get away with wearing them as pants in a pinch. (I'm not advocating for that, just pointing out the emergency potential.)



GREAT idea! I had a near miss with a breakdown last week, and had no money for a cab or a tow, thanks a to a series of unexpected expenses at this already expensive time of year. We were actively prepared for a long cold walk, but a nice warm cab would have been welcome.

Which makes me think.... I might add a sled to my EVC this winter. It's bacpacgirl's first year without a stroller and having a way to carry her was well as gear is something I hadn't considered until just this moment. Yup. I think I'm going to do that. Thanks Dagny!!



Looking forward to it!

This is for my local conditions -- YMMV. A couple of the underlined items are currently missing from kit. I promote keeping the vehicle in good repair which means keeping the fluids topped up rather than carrying extra fluids in the vehicle.

Car kit (store in trunk, glove compartment, centre console and door panels) - Depends on size of vehicle of what you can carry or your abilities.
Sunglasses
Garbage bags
Cell phone charger
Maps and/or GPSr
Toilet paper & alcohol hand sanitizer
Snow brush/scraper

Gloves, mitts, hat or toque, scarf or buff
Optional cold weather clothing (parka, insulated pants or bibs, socks, winter boots)
Emergency reflective sheet, tarp, (shelter) or poncho
Wool blankets or sleeping bag
Charcoal hand warmers

UCO Candle lantern, extra candles /w matches / ferrocerium rod / lighter
Flashlight, headlamp, batteries, whistle
Snap chemical lights

First aid kit
Personal emergency kit
Paper, pen/pencil

Ethanol or isopropanol NOT Methanol gas line antifreeze for fuel injected cars (also doubles as fuel for my alcohol stove)
Cordage, duct tape
Ranger bands (cut up inner tube used like a HD rubber band)
Bungee cords, brass or steel wire
Spare fuses, hose clamps
WD-40, silicone spray
Set of tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, side cutters, utility knife, battery post cleaner)

Collapsible road cone / Reflector triangle / road flares
Mechanical traction aid or cat litter/sand
Shovel
Roll of shop towels

Foot air pump or electric air compressor
Tow strap (need at least the weight of your vehicle = 1/3 of rated breaking strength)
Jumper cables (the heavier the better)
Lithium ion jump start battery pack

Water (keep in the cabin not the trunk, it will stay liquid longer except in the coldest climates)
Food (food not really necessary but it relieves the boredom)
Cooking container

Fire extinguisher
Gas can (empty)
Duffle bag, backpack or something else to carry your gear in
Hardhat, hi-vis vest, safety glasses, safety boots (I'm in construction so this is standard carry!)
Tire jack and wrench
Full size spare if you can fit it.

Keep your gas tank full; lowest grade fuel has 7-10% ethanol, which emulsifies and suspends water; is hydrophilic and can contain up to 4 teaspoons of water per gallon. Too much suspended water can actually lead to phase separation where the water-contaminated ethanol separates from the gasoline. Premium grade has zero ethanol so if you have issues with sputtering, engine stalling, missing or running rough – fill with premium grade for a tank.)
Don’t run your engine more than a couple of minutes to warm the vehicle cabin as the lower engine temperatures can lead to build up of gunk in the engine causing start-up problems. Judicial use of remote car starter.
In severe cold, do run your engine for at least 30 seconds so that the oil can circulate and lubricate the engine properly – especially turbo-charged engines. (The time it takes to scrape the windshield or brush off the snow is sufficient.) However, don’t run the engine at high speed until the vehicle has had a chance to warm up (about 10-15 min.) Turbo-charged engines should also be allowed to cool down for 30+ seconds to prevent “cooking” of the oil.
Your gas filler tube location on your car is indicated by the tiny triangle on your gas gauge.
Clean your battery terminals of corrosion in the winter by using a wire brush, solution of baking soda, coating the clean terminals with grease or WD-40.
Change automatic transmission oil, gear oils and brake fluids as per your vehicle manual.
Change and flush your radiator coolant. Have the garage test the fluid for the proper temperature rating and top up with fluid and distilled water. Note: if your coolant overflows or if you spill – clean it up right away because if your pets lick it up they can be poisoned from drinking the sweet tasting glycol fluid.
Use winter tires or studded winter tires because they are far more effective for control and braking than all-season tires. I use the minus1 system for my tires, i.e. I choose to use a wheel that is one size smaller but compensate by using a taller profile tire so that the diameter is the same. The taller tire is slightly skinnier and able to run through the snow better and they are generally cheaper than wide shorter profile tires.
Tire pressure gauge – check tires monthly for the correct and even pressure across all four tires. Also check your spare tire and inflate it to a higher pressure than your regular tires – you can always partially deflate a tire to the correct pressure.
Check the depth of your tire tread with a gauge or a coin. Less than 5/32” is not sufficient for travelling on snow while 4/32” is the minimum for summer tires on wet roads. A normal winter tire has between 11-13/32” depth. Slip a toonie in between your tread blocks. If the tread reaches the bear’s paws, your tires have lots of tread left (they are probably new!). If the silver part of the toonie is covered by the tread block, your tires are about half worn and if the tread reaches only as far as the letters (‘CANADA’ or ‘DOLLARS’) - your tires are worn and need to be replaced. https://youtu.be/_xJxY04cZkk
Clear the snow (and mud and salt) off the vehicles including lights and roof.
Check weather and road conditions before setting out, let people know about your travel plans, use the work-alone travel app on your phone.
When in trouble: turn on your 4-way signals and raise the hood. People are far more likely to stop to help when you raise the hood.
Advanced signalling techniques (beyond honking the horn, blowing the whistle).
Ladies: if you are uncomfortable with the person who has stopped to give you help (might be a bit sketchy) then tell them that you have phoned for assistance already and are just waiting for them to show up. Carry bear spray for self-defence.

You've got a good list! Just comments on specific items as they occur to me --

• Sunglasses -- They saved my eyes once, serving as safety glasses.
• Maps and/or GPSr -- I'm a believer in paper maps in addition to a GPS. Sometimes electronics fail.
• Toilet paper & alcohol hand sanitizer -- I pack a whole sanitation kit for two.
• Wool blankets or sleeping bag -- Is there a reason you specify wool blankets? I've got fleece.
• Ranger bands (cut up inner tube used like a HD rubber band) -- Hey, this is the first I heard of ranger bands. I looked them up, and while it looks like you can buy them, I'm guessing your solution is cheaper. Is there a kind of inner tube I ought to look for?
• Mechanical traction aid or cat litter/sand -- I have cat litter right now, but some people say cat litter can break down into fine clay, making the situation worse. I tried sand bags, but they can get wet and freeze.

Binkley, if you look around you can find threads that discuss the various merits of wool vs. fleece (by fleece, i understand polyester fleece, not something of cotton, which is pretty much junk). I don't think there is any practically significant difference in warmth between the two materials. I have been served equally well by both.

What is critical is the thickness of the material. Polyester synthetics aren't eaten by moths, but wool is more fire resistant. Synthetics probably dry a bit faster and don't hold as much water. Either one will keep you alive to see another sunrise....

I go for wool blankets over fleece blankets because my understanding is that they are more fire retardant and retain more of their warmth value when wet... BUT... Fleece is lighter, more compact, and it dries faster... I often waffle. Inside the car, except for condensation or a broken window, it probably doesn't matter. But.... if we decide, for some reason, to hoof it, wool seems like a better choice for my for O/A, where it can be cold and wet.

Does polyester fleece keep you warm when wet, or does drying fast make up for that aspect? Note that clothing-wise, I normally wear wool under fleece; I like them both.

My experience has been that saturated fleece can be wrung out quite quickly and will be relatively drier than comparable wool almost immediately. I like both, but fleece has lasted longer than wool for me. I still have the first fleece jacket I bought back in 1981. It still functions,although it is a little threadbare in the elbows. None of my good woolen items from that era have lasted that long.

People should also think about lethal and non-lethal defensive tools. That hasn't been mentioned (as far as I know). However, this sort of stuff depends so much on local law, personal ethics, individual ability, and the state of public safety that I don't know how we can have a useful discussion here.

I didn't discuss the contents of my defense module for that reason. We could start a different thread for that purpose.

Mom is in a nursing home. They still have wool blankets in bags, mounted on the wall, for fire suppression.
I don't know if this is a regular problem with the wheelchair races, or not...

EVC - cash, spare phone charger, spare GPS, filled water bottle in the Summer, Clean dress shirt.