just checking if you are not one of those, 'I charged it went i bought it years ago and it should now work' expectations some people have.

Fortunatly high quality jumper cables will last decades. Also testing car batteries and preventive replacement when they degrade prevents lots of issues.

Nope. I have Bachelor's in electrical engineering by the way,

As another example...I was just talking with a classmate of mine. We are both gun owners and both refuse to by electronic gun safes.

I'm a network security engineer and I strongly agree with this.

I bought the Vair 85P compressor about a year ago and I have used it a few times. I am pleased with its overall performance. The speed of inflation and it's ability to handle large tires are good. It doesn't seem to strain or overheat. The extra long air hose and long power cords are convenient. It doesn't come with a case, but it fits in one of those five buck GI toolbags. You'll want something like that to corral those long cords, along with a tire plug kit, etc.

I have a foot operated tire pump in my car kit. Photo link is for illustration and not exactly the one I have. I prefer a manual tire pump instead of an electric one so as to not put undue strain on the battery which may be taxed out all ready.http://www.dhresource.com/260x260s/f2-al...tyling-foot.jpg. I also carry a can of inflate-a-flat fluid for emergencies since I don't know how to repair flat tires myself. The problem with this is that the aerosol cans tend not to work too well in very cold weather and they need to be warmed with body heat when it gets really cold outside.

I have heavy duty set of jumper cables that I got on a great deal on a number of years ago. They are 20' long, 2ga copper wiring with HD clamps. While they are great for me to help other people out with dead batteries, but the reality is that the type of person who comes to help me out would probably have their own cables otherwise why would they stop and help? While I currently have just the OEM battery in my 1-yr old vehicle, when it comes to replacing the battery I will be installing the largest and highest cold cranking amp (CCA) battery that will physically fit the tray. The OEM one has about 590 CCA, I would be looking at one in the 700-900 CCA range which would provide enough juice to turn over a cold engine in -40*C weather. Another option is to install a 75w battery blanket on the battery itself. (People in Canada and northern US states would know exactly what I am talking about, people from the southern states are probably scratching their heads trying to figure out what I am saying!)

If I needed to self rescue from a dead battery how would I accomplish this? Well, I was thinking of getting one of those small lithium battery units with clamps that may be able to provide enough juice to enable me to start my vehicle. I am skeptical that they can provide enough current for a really dead battery in the middle of winter but if all I need is just a little bit extra current this may be a solution.

The switch over to winter tire season will start next month. Since I have the OEM all season tires, this year I am going to get new steel rims with winter ice/snow tires. I will use the -1 size system i.e. currently 235/55-P17 all seasons will now be 225/65-P16 winter tires. The slightly narrower tires will make it easier to go through snow and have less hydro-planning effect. Also going to a -1 size will mean tires that are generally cheaper and a better selection of manufacturers - I prefer Blizzaks due to prior experience.

Those foot operated pumps are considerably less tiring then the vertical t-handled ones. But, The electric ones are much faster and you can leave the car running while you use them. So, no battery drain.

I've probably related the story before, but the plastic fittings on fix-a-flat cans can degrade over the years and splatter you will sealant when used. Splash proof goggles are a must.

Fix a flat also has a shelf life. You can not just buy a can and expect it to work 1-2 years later. I learned this lesson personally the hard way. The goo solidifies in the can. Also on anything after 2007 has tpms (tire pressure monitoring system) here in the US. Fix a flat and slime will damage/kill the sensor (maybe not at that instant but it gums the sensor and plugs it) interesting side note, when you make it to the shop they can not let the car leave unless the system is functioning (once again weird laws apply) due to liability. sensors run from $30-$250 US.

the compressed air tanks are a viable option also, but they take up a lot of room and have a shelf life also. (they are like scuba tanks and can only be used for so long) personally i hate the things and they are a one time use until refilling, but it is a pretty robust system. Kinda hard for it to fail as long as you check it when you do your monthly tire pressure check.

I personally used a cheapo no name-brand one i inherited from my parents until my kids got a hold of it. As with everything else, they destroyed it. (purchased circa 1992...tod was 2016)

I am looking to replace mine so thank you for all the information.

B.S. in mechanical engineering. No argument from me.

Electrical engineer here. I also have to vote for the mechanical guys doing a much better job than us electrical guys when it comes to locks. No electronic locks for me either. The electronic ones are a solution in search of a problem. And a bad solution at that.