I am trying to put together a bug-out-bag and am asking for suggestions on what type of bag to get. I don't really want to spend more than $75 on the bag itself but I really have no idea where to start and was hoping for some experienced suggestions.

I guess the first question is how long you intend your BOB to enable you to bug out. I would guess a 3-day pack would suffice for most BOB's. The EAGLE® A-III ASSAULT 3-DAY BACKPACK looks promising, although for a bit more than you want to spend. Maybe the medium ALICE pack, used with or without the frame, for about $55 w/o frame.
I am actually looking into 72-hour BOB options too, although since I already have a large ALICE pack, I may just use that, with extra room for region specifics (cold weather gear; extra water) and/or extended bug-out times.
It's important to explore whether or not what you already have is viable for the intended purpose.

My question is: How does a person carry LBE gear and a ruck at the same time? I read somewhere that it is supposed to be that way, but I can't imagine how a heavy backpack (large ALICE) can be worn over a load-bearing belt and harness. Don't they both need to occupy the same hip space?

I use an Austrian Army rucksack for my BoB. It is equipped to help me get home over long distances if TSHTF while I'm away from home.

Jansport makes decent, lower-cost camping backpacks that have served me for hundreds of trail miles. They will blend in (i.e. make you look harmless) better than mil-spec gear, I believe, if that is a concern for you.

Spring is when the new pack lines come out, so last year's models will be dumped on discounters or put on sale soon if they are not already. Look at:

REI-outlet (although they may not carry Jansport, they will have good deals)

Campmor

Sierra Trading Post

I'd be worried about the size, so it fits you, and the amount it holds, so it can hold everything you want it to contain. I found something that fit me and bought it off ebay for about $30.

I agree with Dan_Mcl; make sure the the bag fits you. Any bag can hold stuff, you need to hold the bag. If it fits poorly you are in for a world of hurt. If you don't already have your BOB items separated ou,t then I would suggest that you take a medium-sized suitcase and start chucking your stuff in there. This gives you an idea of volume. Leave a little room for seasonal variations. This will let you see what size bag you are in search of. No need to buy a military duffel bag with straps 'cuz it holds gobs'o'stuff.

Agreed - a big bookbag (like a kids school backpack) is a fine place to start. Nice volume, cheap and really cheap used) and very common. Find one with a belt to distribute the weight and a few lash points.

Thats what my bob is currently. Its a school book bag thats so old its made in the USA.

I think I got some good ideas to start with. Thanks for the help.

I believe Walmart sells Jansport bookpacks.

Whatever you choose, do not to go cheap. During high school my book backpacks would always fail. Either a shoulder strap would rip off at the top, or the zipper would derail, or the fabric would rip or fray or thin. School backpacks are just not made for anything other than light loads.
Remember that Made in China = Cheap! Buy American. We need to support our own infrastructure AND we have quality control in this country.
Make sure the fabric is at least 1000 denier (note that denier is a weight rating not a strength rating) cordura; better yet get the American-made Allied Signal Fibers Tru-Ballistic 1050 denier fabric; it meets U.S. Military Specification #MIL-C-12369F-GL. It is a smoother fabric than cordura, which looks textured. Don't get the foreign 1680 so-called ballistic fabric. 1680 is cheaper, but it is not as rugged. You don't want your backpack to fail you anymore than you want your boots to. A BOB needs to be a quality bag.
I would PLAN to pay no less than around $100 for a quality BOB, and make sure you inspect its construction to be sure that it will NOT let you down. What I mean by this is find out what materials it is made with, and whether or not Velcro is what you want, etc. You might want those superfluous pockets, you might not. Make sure it is large enough that there is some room left in it when fully packed. This reduces strain on the stitching and fabric, and eases getting at stuff, and also allows for an extra water bottle and stuff found in transit. There should be a reason for every feature. Notice if the stitching is up to par or not. Turn the bag inside out and look at it.
It must have comfortable shoulder pads and waist pad. It should also have a sternum strap. External attachments points are great for strapping and also for pouches. You should be able to attach bulky items to the outside, like a tarp, iceaxe and snowshoes, or hatchet.
After you buy it, load it up and walk a mile or two with it on. Run with it on. Jump with it on. Give yourself time to return it to the store if you don't like how it rides.
Be sure to go with a reputable, AMERICAN brandname that offers a lifetime warranty. But even this is no guarantee that it will not fail, so know what you are buying.
I wouldn't worry about if it looks military, unless you plan to use it in an "enemy" country. It is a BOB, so it probably should be inconspicuously colored, although it doesn't need to be camouflage.
Also, heat seal all loose edges on the inside nylon (if any) with a lighter to prevent fraying. Get a large ALICE pack waterproof liner to keep everything dry, or just use a heavy duty trashbag and tie it off.
Bottomline: Your BOB should be chosen to best suit your particular bug-out plan. Don't compromise when it comes to such a vital piece of gear as a BOB. Insist on quality: functionality, versatility, and ruggedness.

Anything else?

What if you cannot afford to spend 100 just on a bag?
100 for a bag just isn't in my budget right now. So what other options do i have?

I equate value with price. "You get what you pay for" is true for most people. But there is of course nothing to prevent you from spending $300 on a BOB if that's the kind of gear your plan calls for.
If all the BOB you can afford is a grapefruit skin, go for it! LOL

I've thought about your question and I must say that even though the answer is rather obvious to me, I'll share it with you anyhow.

IT DEPENDS...on which of the following scenarios best applies to you:

1. If you're like me, thus almost everything you touch breaks somehow, then I suppose if you can't afford an immortal BOB, you'll have to save money and wait until you can. There you go.

2. If you aren't like me, thus even the most delicate rip-off sees you through the rough and tumble, well, maybe you're a fairy. In other words, I don't know.

LOL

Another vote for REI Outlet. This Jansport looks like a good place to start. Med-large volume (2300cu in), okay back support, 50 bucks.

http://www.rei.com/REI-Outlet/product/767153


Here's a link to the start page:

http://www.rei.com/Search.do?storeId=8001&query=Backpacks&cat=22000016&cm_re=toc*toc*Packs&origin=Outlet_Camp&seq=1&hist=query%2CBackpacks%5Ecat%2C22000016%5Ecm_re%2Ctoc*toc*Packs%5Eorigin%2COutlet_Camp%5Estart

What ARE the brands of packs made in the USA these days? All my packs are made in the US, but those same brands nowadays aren't. On the web, I assume if it's not said they are, then they're not. And they hide those "made in" tags pretty well sometimes. That said, some of the made in China packs by US companies look pretty well-made.

Let me say right off that I agree with you and support the policy of buying American... To a painful extent at times it seems...

Anyway, having "done time" in the garment and sporting goods industry you'd be surprised at how expensive products from China can end up being for a consumer depending on who's label is attached. The attached label also goes to speak for the quality of the product a lot of times as well. What I'm trying to say is that just because some of these things are made in China it doesn't necessarily mean they product is low quality; It really depends on the brand name. You might be surprised to see the same stitching, quality of materials, and manufacturing techniques in a $200+ end-market product as you'd see in a similar $10 product, coming out of the same manufacturing plant and costing near the same to produce.

But it is true that there are the corner cutters. We hear the horror stories of course, but look at how much this country imports. It's seriously ridiculous.

Also, every year there are manufacturers who purchase or have products made in China, Afghanistan, India, Mexico and so on, who save a miniscule part of the production work to be done in America so they can add the "Made in the USA" label at the end of the process. Worse than that, there are the companies that just add the label no matter where the product is made.

Having said all that, I agree with your assertion that inspection of the product is key.

Jansport is made in China and Thailand

Maxpedition is made in Taiwan IIRC

The North Face products are mostly Chinese made

I've seen Camelbak both as imported and Made in the USA, so it most likely depends on the particular product.

You're right though, one way to determine where the packs are made is whether they say "Made in the USA" right up front. Then again, if you read my previous post, it may not be the case. The garment/sporting goods industry is, in a lot of cases, a dirty business.

Regardless of location of manufacture just take the time to inspect it in the store; tug, pull, turn inside out, use the zippers a bunch, tighten/loosen, ask them if you can put a dummy load in it in the store and walk around with it. If they really want a happy customer then maybe they will let you put it to the test, within reason, in the store.

Beware the "Made in U.S.A" label as meaning quality. Quality Control is a manufacturer's decision. The decision to implement ISO standards and maintain ISO Certification is strictly a company decision. Refer back to my first paragraph.

Echo that. I've seen some good stuff made in China, and great stuff from Taiwan. And a lot of garbage made in the US and Canada.

As for what and where...

What are your plans? That will narrow the range of sizes. Where can depend. I'm about to annoy some people and say avoid military surplus- yes it is cheap, becuase it has either been worn out by the military or the military decided it was junk. You can get lucky and find unissued items, but I've seen (and bought) "unissued" stuff that looked like it had been dragged behind a truck for a few miles. REI and Campmor are very good, particularly with the new year items coming out.

I've got a Large ALICE pack. For kicks, I took it while walking the dog today. After 5 minutes, it was digging into my sacrum/pelvis... mind you, the pads are actually new. It was uncomfortable, but didn't get much worse over the 40 minutes after that. The problem seems to be that the waist pad is only about 16" long, so it doesn't wrap around your hips, only sits against your back. Also, the shoulder straps didn't put much weight on my shoulders, being mainly holding the pack against me.

On the plus side, the external frame did a GREAT job of keeping my back from sweating (the 35 degree weather didn't hurt).

I'm debating throwing all my stuff into a CTD MOLLE bag, but various posts here have said it's not that durable. Also, it's a weak internal frame, so it may be a lot hotter than the ALICE.
http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/MOLLE125-41518-1964.html

This is what I use, this is not edc it lives at home ready to go, by (out) the window in the bedroom. I've been thinking about just keeping it in my truck though.

Bug Out Gear Long Range Bag

It is comfortable on my back and I can easily carry 55-65#'s without a problem. The quality is very good; I've lugged it for a while now with no problems. I intend to use it as a camping pack as well. Oh yeah it can hold a whole bunch.

My EDC is a utility/survival vest, which can be worn with the pack I plan on posting it here soon.

BTW standard disclaimer applies.

Blitz

And I thought my 5,500 cu in (90L) North Face backpack was overkill...

Jim

I use a type 82 pack bag on a type 64 pack frame, both Canadian army surplus and both have lasted me through 21yrs of torture in 6 countrys and 2 continents. One of the few pieces of Canadian army kit I was issued and chose to carry.

Hey Crogan,

I have a spare '82 packbag but no frame, how well does this bag fit on the '64 frame? I have never been a fan of the type 82 frame.

Thanks

Mike

It fits fairly well with very little modifications but like the '82 frame and unlike the '64 you still put the bag on the top and not the bottom. Problem is its getting harder and harder to find the old '64 frame. I remember hearing about a company making new ones but can't remember the name, maybe try googgling it?

There might be more comfortable choices than the ALICE pack.

Having carried the ALICE for a long time, it will work, but there are more comfortable options. However, the ALICE does offer a good bit of flexibility in attaching things. It is rugged. I still have a large ALICE that I was issued in the mid 1980s. It has been repaired a few times but still works well.

There are differing philosophies regarding bugging out. The one that I prefer is one where you bug-out TO someplace that is ready and waiting. For that you only need a bag and supplies in the bag to get from Pt A (where you Are) to Pt B (where you want to Be). In a perfect world that would take a day pack and a bicycle. In the real world in which I live, the bug-out is likely due to a wildfire and I’ll take my truck with as much as it will carry. They take Visa and breakfast comes with the room.

Realistically, bugging out and heading for the hills with a large backpack? Really? Who has that as a Plan A?

And if you plan to move fast; a small backpack is a better choice

you want load that is at light as possible, but still adequate for conditions encountered. It will weight anywhere from twenty to eighty pounds (ten to forty kilograms). You want a properly designed backpack to carry the load, whatever its weight. Plenty of such items are available at any decent outdoor store. No need to mess with Army surplus.

Don't worry about style points.

My goal is toward the 20# end of that weight range, including pack and water; it gets lighter as the water is used. More weight means slower travel by foot. Speed is life.

As an old Arizona desert rat, I am more inclined to say that 'water is life." Depending on circumstances, speed might or might not be.

Wow! Reviving a thread from 2008? Could this be a new record for "Thread Necromancy"?

Brings back memories, though. Saw Ironraven post figured Cavanaugh might show up. Using an LLBean ruck myself, a near perfect replica of the WWII bergen pack, sans frame. Pack that I grew up with, until the battery acid got to it.

I kinda miss Cavanaugh now!

Old thread revival.

I think in these modern times a "bug out bag" will be a suitcase as your more likely to end up in a hotel than the wilderness. I've known a couple families that had to leave their house because it caught fire, and others that had to spend a week in a hotel during the winter due to power outages/furnace failures.

Take what you have, suitcase, duffel/gym bag, school backpack and start there. Put in some food/water/change of clothes/ toiletries, cash, etc. Pick a random weekend and "bug out" to a hotel somewhere as a surprise minivacation. Pack a small notepad and make a note of things you need/forgot/wish you had. When you get home start a plan to rotate stock in your BoB and add things you noted.

Then as you add/upgrade gear look for gear that can double duty with a hobby (camping, hiking, etc) so you can practice and share cost.

Be prudent and adaptable and use both a backpack and a suitcase. you will probably end up in some sort of building, not the wilderness, but a backpack is the only way to go if you must do any amount of walking.

Overnight backpacking and hiking or bike touring are the kind of activities that will serve you well if you ever have to bug out - personal experience here.

Yes - I have separate containers for outdoors/camping and one for indoors/hotel.
Might bring both depending.