gas shutoff tools...

Anyone care to share some shutoff tool reviews? I'm not a huge fan of uni-taskers but uni or multi reviews are most welcome here.

For inclusion in a kit I really don't find much use for a single-purpose gas-shutoff tool. Generally a largish Crescent wrench (8" or better), monkey wrench (recently found out you can still buy those), a pair of Channellocks (8-12"), even a large pair of pliers, like Vise-Grips (8" is as small as I would consider) will often work if the valve isn't bound up.

The advantage of any of those is they are general use tools that can earn their keep, and the effort use to schlep them around, by doing many other jobs. Crescents wrenches are good on a wide variety of nuts and bolts. Large Channellocks do plumbing, grip a huge variety of objects very well, and pull nails. A pair of Vice-Grips is a clamp, hand vise, pipe wrench, wire cutter, etcetera.

If you are setting up a tool to be kept at or very near the gas valve, preferably chained to it, a purpose made tool makes a lot of sense. I've seen pieces of metal bar stock with a rectangular hole cut in one end that are good. Simple enough to make if your handy. The advantage there is that, unlike a Crescent wrench, which might be used anywhere, the bar stock with a rectangular hole is pretty much a one-trick pony. It is made to fit that valve and little else. It is not likely to be lifted by your no-count brother to work on his jalopy. Chaining it to the valve also helps eliminate wandering.

Most of the tools sold as "gas-cutoff" tools are catering to the disaster preparedness crowd are, IMHO, too specialized to earn their keep in a survival kit but, paradoxically, to multi-purpose to chain to, or hang by, the gas valve and expect to stay there. Most are also overpriced.

My gas shut off tool is a simple bracket welded to a rod with a T-handle. It is so simple it probably would not be complex enough for a middle school metal shop project. Of course, there probably is a titanium, diamond studded, folding version that also serves as an ice axe. Mine lives under the bed. I think it came with the house.

If I didn't use it, I could probably handle the task with a pair of vice grips.

I agree. Gas shutoff tools are somewhat specialized, in that, they aren't typically very good at anything besides shutting of gas lines.

This is fine if you are going to leave the tool by the meter or whatever, but if I'm looking for something to throw in a FEMA kit/Bug-Out bag (where weight is somewhat precious) I want a tool that can do more. A good pair of Vice-Grips or tongue-and-groove Channellocks can do a lot more for the same basic weight.

With that in mind, the one tool I've found that I actually somewhat like is Channellocks 6-in-1 rescue tool. It essentially combines a pair of channellock lineman's pliers with a gas-shutoff notch, a glass breaker pin, and a spanner wrench for large hoses (like those used by firemen or used on large water pumps). A regular pair of Lineman's pliers is quite useful and the additions channel lock has made don't hurt the usefulness of the original tool. At the same time, they do make it somewhat more capable. It's double the cost of a similar pair of Lineman's pliers, but I figure it's worth it if you are already carrying a pair of Lineman's.

This http://www.emergencysuppliesblog.com/ear...-shut-off-tool/ is the one that was issued to me when I joined my local CERT.

No affiliation with the website.

Of those I've seen that one looks to be one of the better ones and, for less than $13 on Amazon, it isn't priced out of the market. Not a bad choice IMHO.

But, here again, I just happen to have dropped into my local home Depot a few hours ago, a Husky brand, nothing fancy but solid, generic 10" crescent wrench was selling for about $12. Husky brand pumphouse pliers, similar to Channellocks, were going for about the same price.

Given the down-the-hole aspect of most water shut-offs the water end of the 4-in-1 may be easier to use.

If you're going to chain one to the actual valve itself PLEASE consider getting a one-way tool. There is a patent out there for one, but I could not easily find one (if you know someone with a torch, you can probably fix this easily). It appears there are also values that will make a 1/4 turn to off, and then require a special tool to open them. These would help prevent someone trying to be "helpful" from turning on your gas supply before it is properly inspected and for pilot lights to be properly lit.

First I've heard anything about that. Is that really a problem?

It can be in earthquake country. I don't think pilot lights would be much of a problem; all the ones I have ever seen (and I have a very old furnace) require manual manipulation to start the gas flow and will shut off shortly after the pilot light goes out - the old bimetal strip technology.

Not that I've really heard, but, humanity does not surprise me anymore. Plus, a lot of people are ignorant (not saying stupid), because of where they lived, their experience, etc. So, better to have another point to stop the chain of events.

Not a guarantee, but, maybe it'll be too much trouble for them to "help you out".

I also have this 4-in-1 tool in my CERT bag. It worked great in training. One day I was about to do a minor plumbing job at the house and tried to use it on the water valve next to the water meter (in a box in the ground). The valve would not move. I attached vice grips to the 4-in-1, but that did not provide enough leverage. I tried other makeshift tools but to no avail. I finally called the water department, who sent out a nice guy with a "T" tool about 4-feet across. Even with that amount of leverage, it still took us both to finally close the valve. The water guy told me that after a few decades, the valves are REALLY tough to move. Telling this story to a fire inspector friend of mine later, he told me this is the reason that the hydrant and fire sprinkler valves in our city are cycled once a year.

That's the one I got, too. I notice that it's non-sparking, and other suggestion tools may create sparks. If you're gas is leaking sparks are not good.

the water company i deal with most face-to-face frowns on using their side of the meter as a shut-off valve. their experience is, as mentioned in a previous post above, that the valve becomes frozen and can break when forced.

if that happens you've created a situation where you will have to call the water company to remedy. they will then need to shut off the water to the street - thereby affecting not only your water, but your neighbors. unpleasant at best.

the solution is to have a ball valve (not a gate valve) on your side of the meter - somewhere between the meter and the house. then you can operate it once a year or so to keep it free.

when i recently had a water company relocate their meter they installed - at no cost - a solid brass, industrial strength ball valve on my side of the meter that fit inside their concrete vault. they wanted to prevent future damage to their valve.

i don't think most water companies would do this w/o charge. but imho it's well worth the cost to have a plumber either change yours (a lot of homes have the gate valves) to a ball valve or install a new one in-line for you.

now you have no need for a tool that may wander.

For those in earthquake country and other places where you really would need to turn off the gas, I wonder if it is possible to have the gas company come out and make sure the valve isn't rusted or stuck or painted over?

It would be nice if there was a quake for the lady of the house to be able to grab the wrench and turn off the gas if you aren't home. All she would have to do is know where the meter is, know where the wrench is, and that the thing will turn without requiring excessive force.

After all, Murphy's Law dictates that if a quake hits, you won't be home.

Sue

My shutoff valve is set in a nice concrete box buried in the ground. We have had to turn off the gas a few times and it works quite easily. Everyone in the house should know where and how to turn off all the utilities.

Somehow, the MOTH is always away when the earth shakes...

Please explain your point about pilot lights being lit. I know about zero regarding that issue. So, start from zero, thanks.

Turning the valve off and on is not something they may like, but you should do it once or twice a year anyway. If you try and cannot move it, call them and have it fixed. Then you can keep it free or know when to call them if it is not. You should know where and how to shut off gas, water and electricity. You may choose not to shut off electricity on a regular basis if, like my area, the only way to do it is to remove the meter. If that is your only option you should know how to do it. I have needed to do it several times when I was working in the service panel. I know I should install a master shut off but I keep putting it off till I replace the panel, which I need to do.

Respectfully,

Jerry

I may be wrong but By properly lit i think he means multiple things. First for water heaters with a pilot light there is a array of steps you have to take before lighting them. Often the instructions are found on a sticker on the heater. Also the Oven and stove pilot lights are properly lit if they do in fact have pilot lights witch mostly the older ones do.

Around here if you want anyone to come out and turn the valve off or on its an $85 trip charge.
First time I ever turned the gas off I found the valve would just keep turning in circles and never stopped. I then had to go in the house and light the stove and wait a few minutes to see if it burned up what was in the line or not. When it didn't go out I'd go back outside and turn the valve a little and go in and check again finally getting it to off. Moved the pipe I needed moved then put on a shutoff valve at the wall and went outside and turned the valve a little at a time until i got the stove to light again. Figured out it was a 1/4 turn valve without a stop.

A lot of valves prior to the 40s were quixotic. Some used oddball keys to operate and many, as noted, lacked stops and any clear indication of valve position. One I came across, quite a well built unit in what looked like solid bronze, had a recessed square-head that made using anything but the specific key made for it difficult.

Generally the modern valves have stops and a handle, or the operating head, that indicated condition. It is parallel to the supply pipes when on and perpendicular to them when off.

Specifics were already mentioned, but the jist of my advice is one thing: Preventing unburned natural gas from entering the house.