Trailer/Truck Tie Down Rope Length

I recently acquired 250 feet of 3/8" polyester rope (not polypropylene; polyester rope takes knots well and doesn't stretch).

I originally bought it to use for canoe tie-downs on my truck, but was surprised to find that a Yakima Keelover canoe rack kit I also purchased came with its own tie-down straps and bow/stern ropes. I guess I didn't read the description very well. Huh.

I figure I'll use the 3/8" poly rope for general tie-down uses on my truck and my open trailer. BUT, now I find myself trying to decide what are the best lengths for ease of use and storage. Any suggestions based upon your experience?

My first thought is don't cut it until YOU know how long the rope needs to be. Our thoughts are virtually irrelevant.

I purchase 1/4" polyester rope for light general purpose use around the house and for camping. The rope usually comes in 100' rolls and I cut into 4 x 25' lengths. This works very well for my needs and I can always tie 2 lengths together if needed, which is not often.

Since you has so much rope, you can probably make a few 50' lengths and whatever size else that you might think you will need.

BTW, for canoe tie-down on my truck, I have always used 1"x 20' cam buckle straps (not ratchet straps). Simple, effective and is a lot less hassle then rope and doing knots, especially with cold hands.

I would think fifty foot lengths are good.I have a fifty footer in my truck that i used for moving my daughter for college. worked very well.It also gets used as a ridge line for my tarp shelter.In both applications there was line left over.Better too much than not enough.

BOATMAN
John

How does one actually USE such an unwieldy length of rope without getting it completely tangled up? I find everything is initially fine coiled up but once I start using it, I have a knotted mess.

I suspect anything longer than 25 to 50 feet is unmanageable. I hope someone out there has a magic bullet for me.

Climbers routinely manage 50 meter (~165 ft) or even 70 meter (~230 ft) ropes, and avoid having a "knotted mess" (usually). Likewise, sailors routinely use various methods to neatly coil the lengthy ends of halyards etc.

No real magic bullet. Just use the part you need, and neatly coil and tie off the rest. There are numerous ways to coil the unused portion. Take a look at various books on climbing or sailing. The only real magic is learning to make the coil without kinking.

You need a stuff bag to handle long lengths of rope.Forget coiling. Take an appropriate sized bag and stuff the rope into it, leaving one end easy to reach. To deploy the rope, just pull it out, or toss the bag. The rope will pay out flawlessly.

Doing tricky rappels, I have attached the bag low on my harness, rigged in the normal manner, and gone on down the route, paying out the rope as I descend. I have never had any problems. The same technique works for kayak rescue ropes in throw bags.

I have handled ropes up to 600 feet in length this way. I understand that Yosemite Search and Rescue has a 3600foot length (the height of El Capitan) which is deployed from a duffel bag in this manner.

50 feet sounds good. As long you can tie down one length across, you're good. If you need more rope, you can add 50 feet segments as needed.

FYI, in the back of my truck, I have about four 20-foot segments. It works for me. I'll just bend segments together if I need a longer continuous rope.



I agree. For the original poster, he could keep 250 feet in a bag and take the length needed for a tie down. One issue though is where to place the bag if it's not a pick-up truck. If it's an SUV and you want all the windows closed, where does the bag with the remaining rope go?

Certainly for tie downs and similar usage, there isno need to keep the rope intact. Cut off as needed and learn a coupleof good joining knots - double fisherman's bend, bowline, etc.

I've used this to manage the main sheet when derigging sailboats. After it's coiled and served, I hung it from the boom with a clove hitch. I've found the best way to keep the rope from twisting when it is uncoiled is to alternate back and fourth in figure 8's intead of a loop.

I use 10 ft lengths of 1/4" nylon/polyester to manage cargo in my SUV. For a conventional pickup truck, I've found 20'-25' lengths better.

FYI, there is a goverment specified"Truck rope" that is required for cargo carriers. From my experiece with with polypro and other stiff ropes, Carrick and Double Fisherman's bends work best. Blood knots (incoil shown) are a pain and a half, but have the highest efficiency (retained strength).

I carry 2 20ft lengths of 1/4" nylon lines in my truck bed secured at opposite corners. I keep them stowed by running each fore and aft around the fwd or after tiedown point. I also keep a cargo net hooked with a corner hooked to each corner tiedown point and the side hooks on the fore aft running ropes/lines.

The cargo net kept spread out is a great plce to place and mostly secure bagged groceries (and other things) contained. Each bag is inside it's own little square of cargo netting.

"If you cut the rope too short, you can always splice it. If you cut the rope too long, though, there's nothing you can do about it."

Dagwood