Storing batteries in electronics

When storing batteries in emergency electronics, like flashlights, be sure to periodically inspect them for leaks, rust, and corrosion.

Now, does anybody know how to get corrosion welded batteries out of a 2D Maglite incandescent!?! I swapped out the original xenon bulb for a 1 watt LED, and it's been running off the same set of batteries for over 2 years.

You may have to get the batteries out in pieces. I'd use vinegar and the right size applicator after that. For something that uses AAA or AA, I'd use a Q-tip. It'll take some experimentation for D batteries. You should see it foam up like hydrogen peroxide. It's neutralized when it doesn't foam anymore. Depending on where it is (i.e. on the tail cap end of a Mag-lite), I'd follow that with a water rinse.

My sympathies. I too have had the dubious pleasure of removing corroded alkaline (AAs) from both Maglite and Streamlight flashlights.

The cells swell up and bond/weld to the metal. That makes them very challenging to remove. After many experiments, I ended up using a cordless drill to drive a long deck screw (wood screw) through the battery. Or maybe it was two screws. Anyway, that gave me a solid anchor to grab hold of with big Vise-Grips. Next time, I would be tempted to grab the screw ends in a bench vise and pull on the flashlight body, which is easier.

I tried the vinegar thing after (strong 7% pickling variety) but it did essentially nothing. I ended up using a variety of steel scrapers to physically chip the crud out.

Good luck.

This is the primary reason I have abandoned alkaline batteries. In the long run, they are more expensive than Eneloop rechargeables, not even counting the cost of whatever equipment they have ruined.

For a Maglight, just send it to them. They have an agreement in place with the major battery manufacturers and will repair/replace the light under the battery makers warranty.

Keep in mind too that pre-eneloop I have had RayoVac and Radio Shack and one off brand NiMH rechargeable leak so just replacing alkaline with rechargeable you are not immune.

In my experience, alkaline meltdowns are much more severe in metal-barreled lights. I suspect that after the leak begins, the conductive barrel becomes part of the discharge path and the cells overheat and discharge much more deeply than in plastic. Basically a runaway short circuit / chemical reaction. Hence the "welding effect" that seems to occur.

The spring has to touch. It completes the circuit, I believe. I may be wrong.

Doug, I think you're right about the metal barrel. Even with the tail cap removed, there was enough voltage to get the LED to glow. That isn't saying much as the LED will work with batteries that would have been considered dead in an incandescent flashlight. Also, neither of the other 2 house flashlights had corrosion and they're plastic with older batteries.

I had to deal with this problem before. My Wife's MiniMag's batteries corroded in place. I solved it by pulling the switch assy out of the lamp end and hitting the batteries with 1/4 drill stock until they came loose. I had to Dremel the residue out the barrel before I could get new batteries in.

If I can get the batteries out, I'll put in a waxpaper lining to prevent a reoccurrance. If I can't, the next light will be polymer.

Unfortunately, Maglite does not cover battery leakage:
http://www.maglite.com/faq_details.asp?faqProd=1AAA
Second paragraph down. Unfortunaley, the shipping costs to the battery manufacturer are the same as the replacement costs.

Seems to be a different on the Solitaire then, I read about them handling leakage on CPF so I dug my 3 AA out of a drawer and sent it in and got it back repaired a few weeks later at no charge.

Technically they don't warranty the work, they contact energizer or duracell or whomever and they cover it from what the threads on CPF say.

Lithium batts for the win

I haven't seen any real advantage of Lithium over a good NiMH like Eneloop.

The advantage of Lithion-ion and Alkaline primaries have over NiMH batteries in voltage (1.5 vs 1.2) and capacity (3000 and 2700 vs 2000 mAh far AA). Conventional battery sizes over AA are not available as lithiums, and scarce in NiMH.

In regards to replacing the alkalines; AA to D cell adaptors are easy to find. But, for a long duration household light, they represent a huge loss of capacity. It drops from 12,000 mAh down to 2,000-3,000, and cuts run time from 50+ hours down to 10.

It seems some people above are confusing Lithium with Lithium-ion. I referenced Lithium (non-rechargeable).

I was referring to lithium primaries too. Several devices I have such as GPS, radios, cameras all run about the same time on Eneloops as they do on a lithium primary and the eneloops can be used again many times.

Runtimes vary by discharge rates -- for example, lithium primaries have a huge advantage over alkalines in high drain devices, but roughly the same performance in low drain devices. With that said, an Energizer Lithium AA is typically rated at 3000 mAh, where Eneloop AAs are typically rated at 2100 mAh.

For myself, I use lithium primaries in devices that are infrequently used, because of their extremely low self-discharge rate and I don't have to worry about leaks. I use Eneloops or 18650s in devices that are in constant or frequent use, where the cost savings matters to me and where maintenance charges aren't an issue. I do not use alkalines.

Here is a link to the Energizer Lithium AA datasheet and the Eneloop AA datasheet.

AA alkalines typically don't like discharge rates aboub 500-750 mA. For reference, I think this is what a AA incandescent Mini Mag pulls.

Going back to the original topic, I did get the batteries (Rayovac) out of the flashlight. But the flashlight itself is FUBAR'd. It's replacement will be an area light or lantern.