concave edge

I have a few stones for sharpening knives, but when I wanted to add a concave grind to one knife, I didn't know how to do it.

So, what kind of sharpener do you use for a concave grind ???

Thanks

You need a wheel. Your larger grinders from Kalamazoo, Coote, Hardcore and Burr King have contact wheels that will do a concave grind. Out of curiosity, why do you want a concave grind?

Nothing special
Just fooling around with some cheap knives.

Just to be clear, I am not going to make a concave grind that is half way along the knife. It is the edge only (1-2 mm) that I wanted to sharpen in a concave shape.

Anyway, I found a knockoff copy of this sharpener, and it did the trick . Thanks

Sounds strange to hear somebody named Chisel looking for a concave grind!

HAHAHAHA

You are right .. LOL but I have slready asked about chisel-headed knives. It time for questions about other shapes .

BTW, I am always learning about tools and their diffrent shapes and how to best utilize which shape for which job. . I was going to put another question about serrated ( waffled ) hammers .. but I got the answer

Thanks everyone

OK, never mind the ... I got the answer ....

I still have a question


I saw a drywall hammer the other day and started wondering of its utility to a (get home bag). It is generally shaped like a tomahawk. Hammer on one side and small hatchet head on the other .



On the positive side, It is lighter weight than a hatchet, so maybe better for someone walking a long distance.

On the negative side, the hammer face was serrated ( waffled ) not plain like most hammers. so, here is the question : how good or bad do you think a waffled face hammer will be for camping or emergency situation ???

For general carpentry it will be baaaaad because it will leave marks all over the wood, but for driving tent pegs or chopping tree branches, it seems OK.

What do you think ???

I think you are suppose to hit nails with a hammer, not the wood or do have as bad of aim as I do

Ouch, my finger keeps getting in the way
Pete

A dry wall hatchet is great for dry wall. For general outdoor use, my preference is for an Estwing all metal hatchet, virtually indestructable. Mine has worked great for everything from clearing helispots to placing pitons and it is still in use after more than twenty years.

You might as well just get a cold steel tomahawk, they come in many different size and styles.

In the hands of a Drywaller or Carpenter,Roofer, or just about anyone else,that uses a hammer on a daily basis,The drywall hammer will work,though it isn't designed to function like a hatchet or Propper hawk!I also have an Estwing hatchet I've owned for many years,& It has served me well!Most drywallers use utility knives & screwguns these days,& roofers use a similar hammer with a smooth face,they also are phasing out the hammer,in favor of Pneumatic nailers.The waffle pattern is made to not slip off the nail head so easily,when hammering nails in!It would be a Very good idea to learn/teach your body to use a Hammer,before taking a hatchet to use,Good luck!

Looking at Amazon, drywall hammers seem to weigh somewhere around a pound to a pound & a half. In comparison the Gerber Back Paxe II weighs in at a hair over a pound making it similar to, or lighter than a drywall hammer (depending on the model).

Given that, I'd go with the Gerber over a drywall hammer assuming more of an outdoors use (i.e., your examples of tent pegs & chopping tree branches).



This is the hatchet I normally use for camping (actually, an older model) and I can't say anything bad about it. It does its job as a small hatchet well and is a handy size for the general tasks like hammering in tent pegs. Its also not too heavy to throw in the pack when backpacking (in my opinion at least).

You might also look for a Marble's pocket axe.


The waffle face on a drywall hatchet leaves nice dimples in the
drywall that take mud well.