Q about glue

I have a pair of cheap shoes that I use for work around the house. One of the shoes has become partially separated from the sole. The original glue is failing.

I have tried gluing it back together twice with Gorilla Glue, but it keeps coming apart again after a few days. Does anyone have a glue recommendation for this type of application?

Thanks

Hi Garlydog,

You could always try,

DOW CORNING® 3145 RTV MIL-A-46146 ADHESIVE/SEALANT - CLEAR

http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/details.aspx?prod=01190300&type=PROD

I had aquired a few tubes of this stuff and works very well for the problem you've got. It will glue/stick together just about anything, is highly stable and doesn't crack and air hardens over 12-24 hours. It was being used in exoctic microwave communication devices. Didn't cost me anything though and don't really know where you can get the stuff and how much it costs in the US.

Hi Garlydog,

Try Shoegoo, (there are a couple of different versions) it is made to do these types of repairs. http://www.shoegoo.co.jp/en.htm

Shoegoo is very available here in Ontario, you see it at Canadain Tire, Wal-mart and Zellers stores for about $7.00/tube.

Good luck,

Mike

agree w/swampdonkey.

the rubber soles of my hiking shoes wrap up the front of the shoes.

they began to detach.

shoegoo, applied under and around the edges, has stopped the detachment.

also used it to stop my cheapo cheapo flip flops from delaminating.

imho good stuff.

I've had good luck with RTV like you use for gaskets or silicone.

Makes me think Shoegoo would be a good think to put in a repair kit.

Never having seen it ... SwampDonkey, do you think 100% Silicon Caulk would be the same thing? Maybe a small tube of that would do as well - per raydarkhorse's suggestion.

Hi Ken,

I have used a product similar to Shoegoo that I think is silicone based called GOOP, it comes in a tube just like Shoegoo. There are different varities of GOOP (household, bathroom, marine, automotive) and I have had great luck with it sealing and glueing anything, I keep it in my auto and boat kits.

I recently split the sole of my Danner boot and plan on using Shoegoo to try and repair it. The 3 " split is right across the ball of the sole so if it can patch this then it can patch any shoe.

I will let you know how it works.

Mike

Barge Cement is a traditional shoemakers glue. It holds like nothing else I have ever used. With the Gorilla on the pieces now you may have some difficulties though.

I keep a small tube in my kit, there are so many uses not just shoe repair

I had good results with McNett Freesole glue

so the crack runs side to side at the bending part of the sole?

does the sole flex there? some do - some are so rigid they don't.

i'm not sure anything short of a new sole would repair it if it constantly flexes there. if it's rigid i think you have a chance..

good luck.

I agree with Schwert.

Barge is what I use when it has to stick. I bought mine from the Local saddle maker, It is the only glue that he uses.

Hi bsmith,

The boots are Danner Striker GTX, they are very light and comfortable but the sole is molded onto the upper and is not replaceable (the warranty is also long over). I split the sole across the ball of the foot where it flexes most, it will be a near impossible repair but I think it will be an excellent test of Shoegoo.

I now wear Danner boots with stichdown soles that can be repaired, they are heavier and more expensive but excellent boots overall.

I will post how the repair works out.

Mike

hi mike,

the boss says use barge.

incredibly strong, incredibly flexible, and the other guys are right - it's the stuff to use.

it's what shoemakers use - and they should know.

bummer about the crack, though.

bsmith

I have used both Gorilla Glue and Goop to fix shoes.

The only time I saw the gorilla glue fail was when I failed to properly prepare the mating surfaces. One time I didn't remove the original glue but any way or varnish used during manufacture will also stop a prevent a proper bond.

Usually I scrub the surfaces with a nylon dish scrubber wet with lacquer thinner to remove and coatings. Then I follow with 60 grit sandpaper, a very rough stone in a drill for larger areas and/or scraping with the edge of a knife. Immaculately clean and well roughened leather tend to stay together quite well no matter what glue you use.

Gorilla glue is good, particularly if you dampen the surfaces and clamp the joint. Urethanes harden by absorbing moisture. Goop is also good but sometimes in a couple of years it hardens and pulls off. When I was using silicone caulk at work I would sometimes use the dregs we would otherwise toss to glue up my work boots. Seemed to work well.

Trick is to let any excess or squeeze-out harden and trim off with a razor blade afterward. Same with the gorilla glue.

As long as I well and throughly prepared the mating surfaces. But, like I said, prep the surfaces well and the brand of glue used is far less important.