Here are a couple of teardrop construction plans.
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/4x10teardrop/4x10teardropindex.htmlhttp://www.outbackteardrop.com/http://members.1stconnect.com/anozira/SiteTops/travel/trailers.htmAnd here are a few ideas that I have had on upgrading any trailer.
You now have a trailer. Be it the back half of a truck, a commercial unit, or something home built. Here are some suggestions on adding some improvements. These are to increase the versatility and reliability of a Bug Out System. [Not just a BOV because of the trailer.]
If you construct your trailer with the same size tires, wheels, and same type hub as your BOV you then have at least 2 extra wheels and assorted parts for replacement on your Primary vehicle. Admittedly this would require abandoning the trailer and most of its gear but it will do you no good if neither can move. This is a site that shows some of the concepts discussed.
http://www.gojeep.rockcrawler.com/Trailers.htmHaving an auxiliary fuel tank to extend your range is an excellent idea. How do you get the fuel to where it’s needed? I would recommend a dual system. Start with an electric fuel pump [ Scavenged from the junk yard.] {As we all Know this is a good means of getting what we need cheaper} The other is a manual back up.
The connection between the truck/car and the trailer is critical. Always rig safety chains. [The old belt and suspenders routine.] The best hook up is the pintle style. A ring that slips over a post with a top latch. Of the 2 on the page the bottom one is best. It has a standard ball type hitch as the post allowing the ability to tow non pintle rigged trailers at need.
http://www.reesehitch.com/pintle_hooks.htmlYour pintle should be easily exchange with a standard trailer hitch. [ Store it on board the rig.] This would give the ability to pull your trailer with another vehicle. You may lose your BOV and have to catch as catch can. The pintle was developed for the military as a positive locking connection for rough travel.
There are some rotating/flexible assemblies developed that allow independent movement between the tow vehicle and the trailer. This lets you operate in very rough terrain minimizing dangers of one flipping the other. Flexibility in the connection will improve maneuverability in tight situations. You can see 2 different types at:
http://www.icc-comm.com/motorcycles/black_tie/black_tie.htmlhttp://www.etrailer.com.au/pages/finalparts/couplings.htmlFor your electrical system use a standard trailer connection. Now here’s a plus. Build a weather proof box on the tongue. Install a battery and charging set up in it. The charging consists of a 3 to 5 hp lawn mower engine and an auto alternator/generator. [Try your best to use one that is compatible with you BOV. Installed spare.] Plans can be found at:
http://theepicenter.com/tow082099.htmlThis will give you a way to jump your BOV when its battery is dead. [Your BOV system can be up graded to a dual battery set up. This would give you a third battery and charging system back up.]
Jumpstarting your or someone else’s BOV. Cables [The heavier the better.] can be attached to the battery in your vehicle then run to the front and rear [more options] of the vehicle. These are terminated in a plug attached in a convenient location. A mating plug is hooked to half a set of jumper cables. To use plug the connectors together attach the jumper clamps to the other vehicle. This plugging system can also be used to hook up a portable winch. If you have the trailer charging system you use it jump you BOV or recharge its batteries. The charging system is more gas economical that running the main engine for charging the batteries. The connectors can be found by going to the following site. Once there click on accessories then on electrical.
http://www.warn.com/InternetHome/Along with giving you a way to improve your Bug Out System’s options it can also be the basis for a 12V power system at your retreat.
