Newbie on sharping knives--help!

Hi everyone,
First, have to say, I really enjoy this forum and Doug's site!! A real find.
I have had several knives in my life and just bought two more, and it is finally time for me to learn how to sharpen them. One has the s30v steel and I am very hesitant to "work" on that one.
What I want is an EASY way or system to "properly" put sharp edges back on my knives when they get dull. Is there such a thing???

The closest thing I've seen to "easy" is the Lansky system, but if you can get the hang of holding the correct bevel on your blade edge, you wont bother with the clamps and guides. My advice is practice on cheaper knives and once you get your confidence built up by developing a few "shaving" edges, you can sharpen "fancy" blades without worrying about ruining them. As with many other things in life, the secret is practice, practice, practice.

Troy

As already noted, you won't go wrong with a Lansky system. I know several people who have them, and they work. The chief complaint is that they are somewhat tedious to use, and not quick to set up & use.

My preference, and of several others of my friends, is for the Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker. It's a variant of the V-style ceramic stick sharpeners. If you can watch the included video, set the base on a level surface, and hold the blade perpendicular to the base, you can do a decent job sharpening a knife. The #204 is a very versatile tool, capable of sharpening both plain & serrated edges, scissors, etc.

I've used mine for the past 14 years, and am very satisfied with it. The current versions have a different base, which is more versatile than my older one. It is also self-contained, doubling as a carrying/storage case.

The Edge-Pro system is also highly regarded, but I have no direct knowledge of it. I believe it is a jig-based system, similar to the Lansky.

All will work (as will simply learning to sharpen a knife the old-fashioned way), but I thing the Spyderco is both easiest, & best.

Good luck.

David

I agree 100% with Troy. The best way to learn to sharpen is not to buy an expensive sharpening system--buy a couple of $10.00 Mora knives from Ragnar and an elcheapo doublegrit stone from the local hardware store. ( Or grab a cheap kitchen knife and go to town!) Practice on these and then you'll not only have some excellent knives but also the knowledge to sharpen on the nearest flat rock out in the boonies.

(Troy, if I misunderstood or misquoted you go ahead and let me have it!)

(I thought I knew how to sharpen until I was told about "the wire edge.")

I just bought (sight unseen) a Buck PBS crosslock Alaskan Guide Series folder in S30V from Cabelas. So I'll be asking the same question pretty soon! Anybody have experience with this steel?
Regards, Vince

I bought some Moras, and they're outstanding. I'm learning to freehand sharpen with one, and the other I'll use a Lansky until I'm ready.

Really, if you're a newbie like me who is looking for a fixed blade, get a Mora. Then replace it later with something a little more luxurious once you have some experience and a better sense of your needs and preferences.

I assume that by "wire edge" you're referring to what I've always heard called a feather edge. Build it up, fold it over, scrape it off, and you have a "beyond razor" edge... is that correct, and if not, educate me about a wire edge, I'm always looking to learn something new <img src="/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />.

A good friend who owns a knife shop uses a bench grinder
with a buffing wheel and a stone wheel. The stone gets it sharp the buffing wheel removes the bur and polishes the edge. Razor sharp and don't ask how I know.

Lee

I do something like that with my lathe tools, never thought of doing it with a hand knife. I use a buffing wheel on my dremel and jeweler's rouge to polish the edge on my chisels to a mirror finish. It really makes my turnings smooth. I'll have to try that on my hand knives.

The way I was told, sharpen one side at the chosen angle until you can feel a burr with your finger that runs along the entire edge of the side opposite to the one you've been sharpening. Then turn the knife over and repeat 'til you feel the burr on the other side. Then remove the burr by drawing the blade sideways several times at the same angle the full length of the knife.

I used to over sharpen. I found out I was creating a "wire edge": a super sharp edge that unfortunately is so weak that it folds over and breaks off when any stress is applied to it. That's why my super sharp knives would get dull if you even looked at them. That sounds similar to what you are describing and it's something I now try to avoid. I wonder if a wire edge would be good for a filet knife though?

Regards, Vince

In a word... perfect!

I have a Benchmade RSK that I recently purchased and have already dulled and resharpened several times (it gets a lot of hard use <img src="/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />). It's an S30V blade (which I love) and I have had great success with a Lanskey natural stone in the fine and super-fine grades with Lanskey honing oil. Starting of course with the fine stone then finishing up with the super-fine stone. I can shave the hair off the back of my arm after about 30-60 minutes of sharpening. I imagine a very fine diamond sharpener would be even faster but I don't own one (yet) for my Lanskey kit. The only diamond sharpener I own is a tiny hand-held "field" sharpener which is nice for a quick sharp on the fly but not as effective (for me) as the lanskey with its nifty angle guides.