I need tour ideas of the perfect flashlight!

Short and sweet, describe all of the features your ideal flashlight would have. I understand this topic was discussed a while back and do not wish to revive an old thread, as I have taken notes from it and using what I can. With technology becoming more and more advanced, I will see what is possible.

AAA-powered, LED (duh), waterproof, and with a ring of glow in the dark material around its reflector so you can find it in the dark when its shut off.
-Blast

P60 size head, XM-L2 U2 3 modes, epoxy potted driver, large brass heat sink (Malkoff style)... 2 x cr123 or 1 x 18650 but with modular body to accept a tube extension that would allow 2 x AA to be used in an emergency...simple momentary push on or twist cap (Surefire 6P style) for ruggedness

I carry two with basically what I like in lights:

1: maximum output roughly 1000 lumens, instant-on to either high setting or strobe (my choice)
Other features: It can be switched to lower lumen output, but with the push of a button, turn on to full-power strobe at any time without having to cycle through other modes

2: Single aaa battery, twist-on operation, three light levels, a glow ring around the outside edge, waterproof
Its one downside: The little tether to connect it to keys has broken, and I can't find a replacement for that part.

Hi, Sybert! Long time no see! Well, the ideal light is going to be subjective. Do you mean an EDC light? A light for camping? Different lights will be better suited to different purposes. But there are some generalities, at least for me.

First off, it has to be LED. That may go without saying in this day and age, circa 2016, but I have no use for incans anymore.

Next, my strong preference is for CR123a batteries. I'll concede that AAA/AA are useful for some applications; I often carry a Streamlight MicroStream AAA with a lithium cell in it as a backup to my regular EDC light. And AAA is great for keychain lights to keep the size down. But for my go-to light I absolutely require the use of CR123a cells!

I strongly prefer lights with simple UI's and just a couple of modes. For 95% of what I use a light for just a HIGH and LOW will suffice. A low mode is sufficient for getting my keys in the door, looking around under the seat, checking the mailbox, etc. Depending on the output of the light LOW is often enough for most tasks. But I like to have a HIGH mode for camping, navigating parking lots, urban use, "tactical" use, etc.

The UI (User Interface) if critical IMO. I want the button to do just one thing, turn the light ON and OFF. The HIGH and LOW modes should be accessed by twisting or rotating either the bezel or head. Elzetta calls this "uncoupled binary controls" and it's my ideal UI. My second choice- and let me add, not a close second- is one button that toggles between HIGH and LOW. This is suboptimal IMO but I can live with it as long as the light defaults to/comes on in HIGH.

Two CR123A cells is my preferred for factor for most uses. A singe CR123A can be nice for EDC.

My favorite lights right now are my Elzetta Alpha and Elzetta Bravo's. Usually I'm carrying the Bravo lately. I have two of them, one with an AVS head and one with a Malkoff M61N dropin.

Ok, I'll be the first odd duck.

3 C Cells, LED.

500 Lumen Max, 50 lumen low. Push button selector. NO FLASH MODE!

Maglite-type Aluminum Case.

Adjustable focus/flood

Ergonomic grip, something like Count Dooku's light saber form factor.

Three point type retention strap with breakaway buckle.

Glass breaker point embedded on the button end of the case, offset from center, under the palm to also aid in grip retention.

That'd be a good start anyways.

I'm still EDCing (for like 10 years) the discontinued Photon Rex on my keychain http://www.photonlight.com/discontinued-products/photon-rex-li-ion-rechargeable-led-flashlight/ the primary woner of it is that it helps me to fully utilize every alkaline battery depleted below any other device voltage requirement. This little vampire can feed on any 1.2 - 3V type battery or accumulator, sucking it to a zero. Also I have a coin sized powerfull neodymium magnet glued to its back, so I can attach it to many steel points I have integrated into my clothing over the time, or use it as a simple compass on a string. The ingenious tiny magnetic charger is riding on the same split ring (picture is not mine).

My favorite EDC light is no longer made, but an updated version of the Nitecore D10/D11 would be nice. When it was new, it had all the features that I wanted. It used a single AA batteries, had multiple output settings with a maximum output of 120L. They were well built and simple to use. If they made a new version with a higher output I would be the first in line to purchase one.

For a pocket/EDC light I would want one that runs on a single AA or CR123 battery, has a maximum output of 500L with scaleable output settings that are programmable and include strobe and signal options. Primary operation would be from a tail-cap switch. Currently, I am using an EagleTac D25C with is pretty close to what I am want but the search for the perfect EDC, for the modern version of Nitecore's D10 is still on.

For a larger flashlight, there are a couple out there right now that fit my needs. Maximum output around 1000L, will run on either CR123 disposable or 18650 rechargeable batteries. This light would also have scaleable output with signal and strobe options that are programmable. The ideal light would be able to charge the 18650 batteries in the light by USB. This light would also primarily function by use of a tail-cap switch. Nitecore's MH12 is a pretty good representative of these features missing the user programmability. A secondary LED in green (preferably) or red would be a nice addition as well.

Both of these lights need to be durable enough to survive a drop and water resistant enough to withstand rain and a drop in water up to a couple of meters in depth. At maximum output, runtime should be over an hour with much longer runtime at lower output settings. I like to have a beam with some reach, but being able to fill a room with light or illuminate a large are outside is more important to me.

for me, one of the custom Mako lights (Mako Mark II HO in particular)

why? its small, light weight, ultra reliable, always on me, extremely long running, uses easy to find batteries, simple to operate. its wasn't cheap but the best things never are.

the Mako i own has:

-bomb-proof titanium construction

-is ultra reliable

-super efficient electronics/LED for extreme run time

-21-lumens for 5-hours, and 3-lumens for 80 hours, when using a 1.5V disposable lithium battery

-can use alkaline, primary lithium or rechargeable NiMH (eneloop) 1.5V AAA battery

-lack of breakable glass "cover" lens

-ability to tail-stand

-simple two-level output with lots of twist between them

-ultra-light weight

-long threads requiring over two full turns before engaging the contact (to keep from losing the head)

-very smooth neutral white flood beam

-one-handed operation

-very smooth threads

-smaller than a Chapstick

so, i have little use for: unreliable units, ultra-bright, short-runtime, specialized-dangerous-high-voltage-rechargeable-batteries, lights i don't always carry, lots of fancy modes like strobe, any additional buttons/contacts that may corrode, or lowest-bidder construction quality.

while the mako is hard to come by, there are others much like it that are readily available.

shown here on the left, among my edc tools:

• Single AA alkaline that can also take NiMH rechargeables and 14500 LiIon rechargeables.
• Ability to turn off instantly, without having to cycle through different brightness modes along the way (single click from ON).
• Ability to turn on instantly to last brightness setting (single click from OFF).
• Ability to turn on instantly to highest brightness mode (push and hold from OFF)
• Cycle brightness modes (push and hold from ON to do a circular cycle through modes, release on chosen mode).
• All those blink, flash, strobe, SOS modes ... keep these oddball modes "hidden" from normal day-to-day operation (double-click and hold from ON to cycle through these).
• Battery charge indicator.
• Tail stand-able and anti-roll.
• Regulated, for constant light output to the 95% exhausted battery point, then low-lumen unregulated for a few minutes so you can still find a replacement battery.
• One hand operation (that means pushbutton(s), and no twist head). Loosening the head should be reserved for deactivating the light so it doesn't accidentally get turned on, not for changing modes.
• Waterproof to a few feet of submersion.
• Wide smooth beam. No central hotspot for distance.
• Only three brightness modes needed - low, medium and high. Maybe four, if you include a super-low 0.5 lumen mode. Alternative: push and hold for continuous increase in brightness until highest. Release, then push and hold again for continuous decrease in brightness until lowest. Release, push and hold again to increase brightness. Repeat as needed.
• Some kind of removable/interchangeable screw-on adapter thingy that would allow keychain/lanyard hole, magnet, pocket clip, striker (to break glass or for self defense), etc.

The closest thing to the above that I have run into, and is what I currently carry, is an "XTAR WK41". If anybody has other suggestions for something that meets most of the above criteria, I'd love to hear! I have bought, occasionally carried, but eventually abandoned the "4Sevens Quark AA" and the "Olight T15".

For my purposes of having an Every-Day-Carry (EDC) flashlight that is always with me (ie on my key-ring) I carried an "Arc-AAA GS" (premium) flashlight for about ten-years.

After reading Doug Ritter's review of the Surefire Titan. I bought myself the "Titan A" model and have been EDC'ing it for almost a month. Like the ARC-AAA, the Titan-A carries well on my keychain, runs on a single AAA lithium battery (can also run on alkaline). The Titan-A has a 15-lumen output on its "normal" mode of operation (compared to 10-lumens for the ARC AAA). Additionally, the Titan-A has a "turbo-mode" -- which causes the light to put-out 125-lumens albeit with a very-short battery-life.

The one feature of the ARC-AAA which I like but is lacking in the Titan-A is that the ARC-AAA will automatically drop down its output to "moon-mode" when the battery is running low. yielding some hours of reduced additional light and a very noticeable warning before the light goes out completely. In contrast, the Titan's rated output of 15-lumens is available for 8.5 hours and then reportedly drops-off to nearly nothing without warning.

Thus, my perfect EDC keychain light would currently be an incarnation of the "Titan-A" with a "moon-mode", and would have the reflector coated with a long-lasting clear-coat glow-in-the-dark paint (ie. Strontium Aluminate with Europeum doping) so that when the light is turned-off, the reflector continues to glow. For examples of such paint see...

http://glow.glowinc.com/glow-in-the-dark-paint/new-category/

I know I'm probably sounding picky -- but when you ask for peoples' definition of the "perfect flashlight" -- you're bound to generate a flood of very-particular responses!

Must have:
LED
Remember last brightness setting
Low output around 10 lumens (this will do for 90% of the daily use)
LONG run time on low
About the size of a fat Maglite
Water resistant (ideally 1m or 2m rating)

NO BUTTON CELLS

Nice to have:
Able to use rechargable Li-ion standard size batteries

Dream light
Able to charge battery with USB or magnetic charge cable
Able to charge other devices with USB out

I currently EDC a Fenix PD35. It checks all the boxes on the must and nice to have lists.

Too many flashlights for too many uses.

For keyring EDC, I have a Thrunite TI Titanium. Runs on 1xAAA, super-low low and 180lm high. Pretty good for a keyring light.

Primary EDC light right now is a Nitecore MT10C. Runs on 1xCR123A or a 18350, crazy awesome output for the size and excellent runtime on lower modes.

My most commonly used larger flashlight is another Nitecore, the MH12. I use an 18650 which can be recharged via the onboard USB port.

I'll need more info on your requirements to make a specific recommendation.

Thank you all for the replies. I'm currently devising a few lights to try to make. I did mean to be more specific, however, I have come to a realization that there is no such thing as a jack-of-all-trades flashlight. Allow me to separate this into categories, and I want your requirements for each. EDC, General use (Thing Surefire G2 size, under 6"), and Vehicle/Heavy Duty.

EDC will be keychain or Pen-light sized.

Gen. Use will be average size; 1" Bezel, 5-6" length.

Vehicle will be rechargeable, biggest and brightest of the bunch, most likely useful for self-defense (Crenellated bezel).


Hey Phaedrus, it sure has been a long time. How've you been holding up? I've been moving left and right, hopefully I'm done for a while.

And even here we cannot agree. While I have a DR Photon on my keys, it is not my goto EDC light (too small). That happens to be a Steamlight Protac 1L (single CR123). Could be better, but is the best compromise of size and light output. High and lo output (180/12 lumens) and strobe (blah), with tail click.

General use is almost always a headlamp, backed up with my EDC for throw as necessary.

Regards,
Bill

Let's dive into some Science Fiction now.

One of the major reasons of disagreement is the button functionality. That could be resolved making the internal controller programmable. So you just connect your flashlight with the USB cable to your PC, or establish a BT connection with it from your phone, start an app, and build the button-light behavior in any way you want, or select a ready made profile from the list, or even download it from the fan-site. It could be even possible to have a button command to change the profile entirely to another one without connecting to the app (i.e. changing it as the changing conditions dictating). Even better yet - make the light controllable from the phone directly too! I believe I saw such a flashlight in a prepubescent stage at least announced a while ago.

The second one is the battery. To me it's obvious that it must be removable/replaceable and rechargeable. For us, ETS folks, always tending to carry a spare battery, most likely a LiPO with integrated protected charge pump would be ideal. When depleted you just replace it with a spare and setup the empty one for charging from an AC/DC source, a powerbank, the sun, or some standard battery found or scavenged. That would work well for those standardized on AA or CR123, or not standardized on anything but USB port.

The shape/casing must undergo the same transformation as the one of the modern smartphones. A minimalist functional battery+LED+button+charging port(maybe) capsule, and infinite possibilities for the replaceable outer shell (waterproof/shock proof to any rating wanted, any mount type required, extended external battery, integrated solar charger, and what's not).

For me EDC means single AA. Needs to give good results with Eneloop, and support Lithium as a backup. Alkaline if nothing else is available. Currently I am preferring quite a floody beam, about 90 degrees wide, with no hot-spot. Switch-on must default to dim, with no chance of accidentally getting full brightness.

General use means 18650 or two CR123. Probably should have a hot-spot with some spill, with an adaptor to make it floody.

Colour tint should be warm for both. Colour rendition matters to me more than brightness.

Both should be configurable, to trade brightness against battery life. It should be quantised, not continuous: my one problem with the D10 is that I never really knew how much life a given brightness level would give me. Currently I think the Zebralight interface almost gets it right: 3 main levels, with 2 sub-levels for each, with the second sub-level programmable to a range of options. My current EDC is their SC5Fw, with a high of around 500 lumens and can manage 1 lumen for a fortnight. Their main mistake is defaulting to high. Photo Freedom also has a good UI.

Multiple buttons or controls would be best, if it doesn't compromise water-proofing. My Surefire U2 sets brightness to 1 of 6 levels with a ring around the head, and a clicky at the tail for on/off (soft press for momentary).

Strobes are nice to have only if they don't compromise UI.

I wouldn't buy a light that didn't work with rechargeables, or which only supported a single battery chemistry.

I've no idea about "heavy-duty" torches. My "general purpose" light outputs 1,000 lumens and is good for everything I do, but I don't do search and rescue.

Since I have bright flashlights everywhere in my cars and house, I just carry a little $4 aaa from deal extreme in my pocket. Low lumens so even the free harbor freight zinc batteries and hybrid rechargables last a long time.

Very busy! I took the Exec Chef job in a place in MN late last year. It's keeping me hopping. I don't want to move again anytime soon, either.




I use a Fenix E01 as my key chain EDC. It's got a really angry purple tint but so far I haven't found anything enough better to replace it (especially given the durability and low price). Eventually I could see getting a Peak Eiger or Prometheus Beta QR for the keychain.

The Surefire G2 is a great light, and the 6P is great with a Malkoff dropin. I'm very partial to Elzetta for the 'tactical'/EDC category.

my choices for your three categories... actually four... I EDC two lights...a AAA Eneloop 2014 E05 on the key ring, and the AA Eneloop Solar Force Z2 in a pouch along with a spare G42 magazine

the Solar Force L2M has a low voltage (.8-4.2v) XP-G R5 smooth reflector with 18560

the 3 x cr123 Solar Force L2N with tube extension has a long throw M3 head (XM-L2 3 mode)

with a tube extension added to the L2M, with the lower voltage module it works with 2 x AA

Well, as you all should no, there is absolutely nothing I can build that would satisfy everyone. However, Alex and I have the same idea regarding programmable buttons and externally controllable buttons. I would like to make a manual option for if TSHTF and your flashlight is set to max. output at 50L. Smartphones break, especially when thrown around in cars that wreck or roll over. So, here is my idea so far, and please, anyone correct me in my thinking because I assure you most of you have more knowledge regarding this stuff than I.

It would begin with 3 or 4 "Base" models. Surefire refers to them as "Tactical", but flashlights that have a single, high output.

The "Keychain" Light should have a body that can take a single AAA battery, yet have a minimum output of 100L. It is a keychain light, if you need any higher output for a light that is less than 3" long, you need to sacrifice runtime.

On the topic of runtime, a Max. output would run until batteries were 75% depleted. Afterwards, it would default to either the next lowest setting (50L) or off.

The EDC Light, which I now know shall be smaller than I originally thought, shall be no longer than 5", with a body no bigger than .75" in diameter or cross-section. A flashlight of this size will easily accommodate 123A as well as AA size batteries. 200L seems like a reasonable output for a light of this size.

This takes me to the next point about throw. Surely, no throw is going to satisfy everyone. I used to be a bigger fan of almost laser-beam, until I had to try to find a lost Surefire Fury (Ironic, Right?). That's when I discovered that a wider throw has its major benefits, although distance is sacrificed. Sure, Mag-Lite has its adjustable beam, but let's be honest, it's terrible. I haven't played with newer LED Mags, but IIRC, at short distances with a flood beam, it creates a nice black-hole.

Well, my earlier point about "base" models brings me here. Each model would have different heads that you can utilize. Some people prefer crenellated heads, I only see them useful on 1" bodied flashlights, as that is the most comfortable for me to grip combatively. I can't say anything regarding color, as I was thinking Titanium would be the material they are made of. I'm unsure if Titanium can be anodized like Aluminum or a different coloring process.

A glowing ring seems to be a popular "Must-have" so I will find a way to incorporate that. I was thinking Tritium, but that would significantly raise the price of the flashlight.

Sorry I'm all over the board here, but one point brings me to another. Price; I'm sure not all of us can afford to purchase Ti flashlights. I can't even afford to replace the Surefire I lost. EDC Base models would cost around $25 for an Aluminum light, Aluminum head, and Aluminum Tail Cap, $45 for Ti. Keychain models, I would hope to place somewhere in the $15 range, $25 for Ti if possible.

Tailcaps.. Where the magic happens. Let's start with the plain-jane! You press it, the light comes on. base models would have 2 options, tail-clicky, and tactical (twist to constant on). both have momentary on, both have constant on, both have one output. A programmable tail cap is well beyond my capabilities as an engineer and machinist, so I'm sorry, but that just is not a possibility at this moment, unless some electrical engineer reads these forums and takes it as a challenge. However, each model (except for Vehicle, a tail-cap switch on a large light is impractical) will have a variety of available upgrades. Hi-Low, Low-Hi, Hi-Med-Low, Low-Med-Hi, Hi-Strobe-Low, Tactical Single-Output with Pressure Switch; You get the idea.

So far, I've briefly covered Keychain and EDC types, and most of the EDC upgrades would follow along the same path as Gen. Use. The vehicle light would most likely utilize an internal, removable, rechargeable battery. A secure charging mount, easily mounted on your car. I say secure, because the last place you want your vehicle's flashlight in a roll-over is at the top of the ravine you're sitting in. I may try to include a way that it activates on a lower mode (25L) when it detects a sudden change in motion, so if it does happen to break loose, it isn't impossible to find amongst 8 years worth of dropped cheeto's and McDonalds wrappers under your 3rd row seating. (nice visual, huh?)

I have a habit of over-engineering things, so it'll be weighty, but not over-encumbering. My largest issue is the lack of machinery, materials, and time. So far, what do you all like, what aspects do you hate, which ones won't work? Give me anything you can think of that will help or hurt. I greatly appreciate criticism, no matter how "harsh" you think it is.

I need a light that won't go on in my pack - some sort of safety switch.

My ideal flashlight would be a headlamp. It is easier to hold a headlamp in your hand than to tie a flashlight to your noggin. It would use li-ion chemistry, probably 18650 size or possibly the AA equivalent.

A beam adjustable from wide to narrow (flood to throw) makes sense. It doesn't need a lot of lumens for most applications, although variable output is a useful feature. Using titanium for the body is a silly bling factor that only increases the cost IMHO. Aluminum is perfectly satisfactory.

The most important feature of any light is that it functions reliably, every time. Punch the button and it is on. Punch it again, and it is off.

I don't like buttons of any kind on flashlights. Every one breaks eventually. I like direct contact like ARC AAA's, CMG Infinity and Fenix EO1. Gerber Infinity and Fenix EO1 uses a spring to stop rattles but it can break also. The ARC AAA uses a foam washer to stop rattles and it can't break. When I want light I want all I can get NOW. Our Grandfathers were pretty happy with a two D cell incandescent bulb light. My small ARC AAA light is brighter than those old clunkers. The more bells and whistles the more can go wrong. To me a perfect light has already been made. It was made obsolete by being " improved ".....

BOATMAN
John

boatman john nailed it: the old ArcAAA was and still is the benchmark of flashlights - simple, reliable, solid, small

one you have with you beats something fancier & more powerful that's out-of-reach.

The problem with the Arc AAA was availability -- same with the CMG Infinity; they were good lights if you could get one. I have a few lights of similar design: a Peak AAA, Gerber Infinity (4) and a couple Fenix E01. All are good and have never failed. I keep the Peak AAA in my Mission Wallet. The only failure I've had in any of these lights was due to an alkaline battery that failed before its shelf date -- scratch one Fenix E01, bring in the back-up.

BTW, titanium is beneficial in that if a battery dies, aluminum is toast, Ti handles corrosion much much better.

I am also a fan of smaller lights in general, especially the Infinity and Peak. Currently, a Fenix LD 02 graces my key ring, replacing an LD 01, also a very fine light.

Certainly one of the attributes of a "perfect" flashlight is availability - right at hand when you need a light and dependability - you will have light when you need it, right away. Carry a headband and you have a serviceable headlamp...(Don't carry it in your mouth - that is a very bad idea!) You can also easily pack replacement batteries if using the small AA, AAA, or 123 sizes.


Good point about corrosion resistant titanium. My solution is to use essentially non-leaking rechargeable NiMH batteries. No equipment that I respect will ever have alkaline batts.

Hikermor -- consider the 4Sevens Mini ML-X. You can get a headlamp kit that accommodates.

Thanks for the tip! That is an intriguing light, but it apparently doesn't use recargeables (??) I do already possess a Zebralight that will use all AA chemistries. It works quite well in hand, as well.

Why do they keep coming up with this neat stuff? We are a long way from the 2 D, dim bulb, ever flicker junk....

Yeah, every flashlight that needs inventing has already been invented.

Place a tab of paper inside the flashlight at the battery contacts. Easy to remove when you want to use it. I use this for long term storage of all my flashlights.

Streamlight makes some very nice headlamps for not a lot of money.

... and I'm out. I'd want to be able to trade run-time against brightness. Also, I think 100L is pretty bright for most of my EDC uses. Indoors, 7L is usually more than adequate, and outdoors around 30L.

I think you're being unambitious here. I have a Zebralight SC600 Mk II L2 that is 4" by 1" and produces 1,100L. OK it's a bit wider, but also a bit shorter. Generally I think brightness should go by multiples of three: 0.3L, 1L, 3L, 10L, 30L, 100L, 300L, 1000L. To the human eye, 200L EDC isn't that much brighter than 100L keychain.

Over-all it sounds like you are very keen on tactical or combat-oriented lights. That's not for me.

If you are a LEO,then a tactical light, especially one that is extremely bright, might be just the ticket. I agree that for most "normal" purposes, run time beats brightness, especially over 200 lumens. YMMV, which is why there are so many models available.

I checked the other day, and I only have thirteen headlamps. That is an unlucky number, so I had better start shopping....

See my previous points about utilizing interchangeable tailcap electronics. Basically, each model would be a fully customizable flashlight that you get to build without having to purchase aftermarket parts for.

Also, the tactical tailcap would be the base model since it would be the cheapest and easiest to make. You could add any assortment of modes you desire.

I'm still amazed by the Doug Ritter lights; excellent. Only thing I'd like is a red beam option. A photon with that is on the way from the US.

For now I got from Wilko in the UK; their own head lamp with 2 bright white LEDs and a tiny red one. If you want to use as little light as possible the red one would be ideal since you won't lose your night sight.
Only £3 and I've found Wilko stuff decent quality.

How many lumens is the Doug Ritter light by the way?

qjs

This thread seems to be more about inventing a new tactical light, the one you can use for torchering an assailant as D.Ritter has already perfected in the peaceful pocket EDC department and the Petzl e+Light - in the head lamp's one.

Confirming, in the true darkness (no moon,no distant city lights reflecting from the clouds) I'm often using a piece of masking tape over the red LED of my Petzl e+Lite to avoid blinding myself when working in the close quarters.

By the way, could you provide a link to that Wilko headlamp? Can't seem to find it online from down here.

A 'tactical light' is not what the original question asked.

And what I meant by praising Dougs light, is that it has the features of a perfect light. One of those items that just keeps getting better. Even the clip is a world beater; I've stoppped losing things off my keyring.

Wilko headlamp:
http://www.wilko.com/camping-equipment-and-essentials/wilko-3-led-headtorch/invt/0408494

qjs

Raising an old thread from the dead just to say "I found a Streamlight flashlight!" Someone lost a ProTac 2L on a local and it's mine now. It didn't work at first but replacing the batteries fixed that. Came here to do a little research on the programmable settings, since I know you guys know your lights.

I've never had such an expensive light before, and probably wouldn't have ever bought one. Big difference from my standard DR micro photon, cheapo 3AAA LEDs and my old mini Mag. WOW! It's going to be EDC now.

And I have to tell you.... I get it now.

Goggle and see if there might be an on-line manual? Often there is...I am not familiar with that brand/model.....

Otherwise, just start punching buttons and write your own. Might take a while. Typically there are about three brightness levels and strobe/ flashing modes also available.

I didn't use goggle, but here are the ProTac 2L Operating Instructions


Personally I never use a strobe setting so the factory default wouldn't work for me. I'd set it up for Low-High. A 30 Lumen low setting is it. I'd like a much lower low and a 30 Lumen medium, but that's just me.

Nice find, have fun.

As long as the thread is open again... The light I carry when I need a lot of illumination out the front end is the Thrunite TN-12. It has six output settings, well spread out from a very low 0.4 lumen Firefly mode to a Max around 850 lumen for the neutral white. The cool white version is advertised at 1100 lumen.

Other lights I have clipped to my pocket depending on situation (which I bought from CountyComm.com ) are:
A not quite neutral white Cree LED, Titanium body AAA (no longer available),
A neutral (warmer) white Nichia LED, AAA dressed in copper and,
A neutral (warmer) white Nichia LED, AA dressed in titanium.
All are nice lights, the two Nichia LED lights are available last I looked, but that can change. Check CountyComm's light page for current offerings. No affiliation other than liking their lights.

Edit: One more thought... I want an EDC light that initializes in its lowest setting. If I'm walking around at night with my eyes fairly well night adjusted, I do not want to blind myself when my light turns on. I like a low-Low, not simply lower than High -- 1 lumen or lower would be ideal, but some companies just don't get it. The CountyComm lights don't all initialize in low and their lows aren't all low enough IMO. The Ti AA is L-M-H, but the copper AAA and the Ti AAA are M-L-H. I carry the Ti AA at night when my eyes are more likely to be sensitized and I carry the AAA lights during the day when my eyes are not so sensitive. It's just something to consider. On this subject, the Thrunite TN-12 has a mode button separate from the On/Off switch. The light turns on at whatever setting you had it when it was turned off. I normally have that light turn on in Mode 4 which is about 400 lumen. That flashlight only comes out when a lot of light is required. Typically, that means coyotes when I'm walking the dog.

BacPacJac,

You can find all the info on the ProTac 2L (including the manual) here:

ProTac 21

Ideal, from the ground up light
4AAA in a 2x2 flat pattern
IP67 dustproof/waterproof
Fully regulated
Three mode (6 lumen, 30 lumen, 150 lumen) tail clicky
Impact resistant to 2m
<3 oz w/o with batteries

perfect light

not expensive
uses a few AA batteries
is reasonably bright (but cannot illuminate Moscow from Alaska)
is lightweight

the whole world of flashlights has turned so incredibly complicated - it has become ridiculous. you would think that some people are selling Ferraris, the way that they talk.

My suggestion ... keep it simple and inexpensive.
You can always buy another :-)

ete

A flashlight is a tool, and you need the right tool for the job you need it to do. Basic survival and hiking do not NEED a powerful light. You need the perfect light for what you do.

I don't like a lot of modes on a light. My preference is for single or dual mode lights. I'd rather it turn on in whatever mode I left it in last time; as a compromise I'll accept it automatically coming on in HIGH. This is because in an emergency I want max illumination, and if it's not an emergency I have time to change the modes.

Except for keychain lights and perhaps some very limited, special applications I use CR123a batteries. I do keep a few lights that use AA or AAA, always with lithiums. Personally I have little to no use for any other kind of batteries. My collection includes one legacy light that uses 3 x C-cells but if I lost that light I would not replace it.

Max power is low down my list of priorities. Sure, an uber-bright light is sometimes useful (eg weapon use, SAR) but for the most part a couple hundred to a thousand lumens on the high end is sufficient for my purposes. A LOW setting of 5-25 lumens is about right for me.

I place a premium on reliability; everything else is secondary. It doesn't matter how bright the light or how great the ergonomics if it breaks after a three foot fall from my pack. A good, intuitive UI is my next priority, good tint follows close behind in 3rd place. 4th place is output.

The other side of the battery issue are those of us who use rechargeable batteries -- 18650 Li-ion for my high output Thrunight and Eneloop NiMH AA or AAA batteries for the rest. I have a few lithium primary batteries here but they're back-ups. YMMV.

My most used light is my EDC, a Fenix LD02, simply because it is with me when I need it. At either 50 or 100 lumens, it provides enough light for most (but not all!) purposes.

Too many lumens. I often need just enough light to reach into shadows at night without ruining my natural night vision. When I need a lot of light to make coyotes uncomfortable it's nice to have that option, but more often I need way less.

Flashlight manufacturers should pay more attention to the low end imo. Foursevens has a Moonlight mode and Thrunite has a Firefly mode, but most flashlights don't go anywhere near low enough. YMMV

I would agree that you usually need only a fairly dim light. When i am hiking at night, i prefer to hike from dusk in the night, letting my night vision adjust. If there are no clouds in the sky, or some sort of quarter moon or more, on fairly safe terrain, no artificial light will be needed at all.

At least that was the case when i was younger. More and more, I find myself reaching for a light to illuminate dark, shadowy places that didn't pose a problem decades ago....

Thinking about the whole flashlight thing, and a life of going to a lot of different places, it actually didnt matter at all ... what light i chose. i put way too much attention into choosing exotic lights.

What mattered ... was when i goofed up and I did NOT have a flashlight - when I really needed one.

e.g. descending down an unknown trail, from a mountain peak, in the dark, tired, and dehydrated. And NO flashlight. Those kinds of situations are what give rise to accidents, and rescue scenarios. i was lucky that didnt happen.

Think about where you will carry that light. which pocket of your pack, or your pants? Buy a light that fits this location.

Simple Checklist
* Flask of water
* Warm jacket
* Fleece Hat
* Granola Bar
* Flashlight

Those 5 items can do wonders to keep you out of the "I need a rescue" social group.

Pete

The flashlight that I own that gets used the most is my Block Light. It is a 6 LED light that attaches directly onto the top of a 9 volt battery. Fits easily in my pocket and is easy 1 hand use. It is the one I always have.

Just as important as the battery is its power source. I have gone to rechargeable batts wherever possible - Nimh (preferably Eneloops) or li-ion (mostly 18650s) and lithium primary batteries when long term storage is an issue. Alkaline batteries will almost inevitably leak, usually in your most expensive gear.

Whatever your choice for a light, if it isn't at hand when you need it, it is useless...

Montanero. Thanks. I might get one of those in the next couple of weeks.

OP - it boils down to a simple flashlight that lasts a long time, the ON/OFF switch is reliable, and you don't have to fool around with changing light bulbs.

Just my $0.02.

Pete

Pete, there are some different models out there, some with a sliding switch and some with a push button on the side. Sometimes they do come off of the battery in your pocket, and sometimes they do turn on in your pocket. But they are inexpensive, 9 volts are readily available, and it is no cumbersome.

I have not had one break on my or any switch failures, and I have carried one for several years.

I have one of those around here someplace. They're okay, but I prefer a 1xAAA or 1xAA light for EDC. Now that my last clock still running AA primaries died to a alkaline battery failure, everything has been switched over to NiMH, except for a couple lights that run on 18650 Li-ion. I don't have any need for 9 volt batteries, even my smoke detector runs on AA's.

For something entirely different, consider the Luci light or similar. These are solar powered and self contained. They consist of a solar panel, some sort of battery and LED lights in a collapsible, inflatable container. Unexpanded, it makes a serviceable flashlight. Expanded, it is a very nice area light (its best use). I have found these very useful when camping, and they are light enough to consider for backpacking. Best of all, they are not dependent upon the grid (though sun light is handy).

+1 -- but tie the Luci lights down; once inflated they can get blown around if left on their own. The nice things is that simply by the way they are contained, they are really waterproof and will probably float quite well.

I have a few of the Luci Lux version which are a warmer white and imo not as harsh on your eyes at night.

Another option when considering flashlights is some kind of a power bank with a flashlight attachment. Many of these are respectable lights and they can recharge your various other electronic devices like GPS, etc.

Actually, I don't think there is one do-it-all light. At a minimum I prefer a good headlamp, a variable lumen handheld that can be extremely bright, and a small key chain type for various odd tasks (like changing the batteries in the other two lights). The traditional rule for caving was three lights and that has worked for me both in caves and at night for a long time. With today's batteries, the weight of three such lights isn't much at all.