Emergency car kit recommendation?

I'm putting together an emergency car kit for a new car. I'm thinking that I'd work off a commercial car kit and build from there. Do you have recommendations for a good kit?

I did a bit of online research. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places, but it looks like only AAA and maybe one or two other brands make car kits. I'm amazed that some includes an air compressor at such a low price -- often an compressor itself costs more than that. (I am irked by "use once" tools. They fail you when you really need them.)

Also, what's your favorite portable or collapsible snow shovel?

Thanks for your help!

Da Bing

Lots of recent car shovel discussion here and another older (and longer thread) here.

Also: "Winter Car Kits"

http://forums.equipped.org/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=212183#Post212183


Many good threads. I wouldn't start with a commercial car kit.

Hi, Bingley.

I have yet to see a commercial car kit that was worth a plugged nickel. Unfortunately, the ones I've seen are built on a "single use" principle, and that does not inspire confidence.

I think it's better to identify the situations you are likely to face, build a list that meets your needs, and start accumulating gear that does the job.

Get Yourself a Real Steelnosed Shovel,None of that razamataz crapola Plastic,Light as a feather,telescopic/folding Junk,& Go from There!

Its not a snow shovel, but the Gerber/Fiskars NATO folding shovel is pretty awesome. I've used it to dig the truck out more than once.

I'm currently debating between an alcohol stove vs solid fuel stove for the truck.

Doug has a good list here:
http://www.equipped.org/earthqk.htm#erthqkcarkt

I use that for hacking hard snow and ice, but moving large amounts of snow with such a small shovel is tedious, to say the least. For not too hard snow I use a light weight plastic collapsible shovel. Not very big - but at 1/3rd the weight, a good lengthy handle and 4 times the area of the folding shovel makes for much better ergonomics. With a little care I can also hack semi-hard snow with it, leaving that heavy lump of metal (folding shovel) packed safely away in the spare wheel drum until I really need it.

Ditto on dumping the commercial "one use" kits and tools. Go to the ETS Home Page, right here on this site, and check out the automobile kit recommendations under the heading "Survival Kits." That will get you started in good shape.

My kit is better for my needs and cost less than starting with a commercial car kit would have.

Also, I separate things that my car needs (spare tire, lug wrench, jack, jack handle, tow strap, jumper cables) from things that I need (first aid, shelter, water, food, signaling and so on). That works well for me.

Alright, no commercial kit for me. Now, the next question -- what would be your favorite bag for the kit?

Da Bing

In practice, I find that my car kit is split into several "kits."

Mechanical kit: the usual suspects that keep a car running, deal with minor breakdowns, keep it visible in a pickle, and facilitate a dig-out or pull-out from a ditch or snow bank.

People kit: keeps people warm, hydrated, first-aided, crudely fed, and well-communicated with the outside world. Includes a few spares for people also stranded but practically naked except for a smart phone.

Deep 05H!T kit: this supplements the kits above; some is readily accessible and some is packed in around the spare tire; typically includes a short, indestructible axe, a surplus SWAK-knife or multitool, vise-grip, saw, a decent sized pot, firemaking gear, and other things a dayhiker would normally carry.

As well: I try to have a selection of key items in a daypack that I can toss in the trunk of someone else's car (which for various reasons ends up as the transport of choice). I always get a fair bit of chaff about this, but I pay little heed, since nobody turns down the gear when they need it, so they're just blowing smoke.

Work out what goes in the kit first, if you can. That will inform the size of the bag you need.

For me, backpacks work better than shoulder bags for weight of any significance and walks of over about half a mile.

While you won't want to store water long-term in a hydration pack, having the option to bring water with you is essential. Being able to drink on the move can be handy. I've done well waiting for Camelbak sales.

I'd avoid anything tactical looking, especially if you're in an urban area. You may find it useful to be able to blend in.

My kit serves several purposes for me and is customized to my experience, training, and habits. If you're like me, you'll be tinkering with the contents of your kit regularly. This will change the bag or bags that you use over time.

Bingley,

Like others I separate things. There is a tool kit (things for the car) in a tool bag. There is a 72 hour kit in a backpack. There is extra food and water in a small duffel bag that can be strapped on top of the 72 hour backpack, but is used at the car significantly more often. There is also my most used kit, a spare set of clothing, from the inside out, with toiletries for an overnight or when I get dirty or wet. It is in an old canvas breif case (except for the boots). If I needed to leave the car in a hurry, 15 seconds would have it together to leave. Most of the time I just need a bottle of water for someone who is dehydrated, a snack for someone who forgot breakfast or a clean shirt because I spilled my lunch.

Respectfully,

Jerry

Ditto.

And of course your vehicle influences what you can carry. I carry a lot more in my Element than I ever did in my Miatas.

I have one good-sized day pack (1700 cu in) in the car and a few smaller packs in there. You may not be alone in the car when an emergency occurs.

Your vehicle will also influence how you store and carry your kits. Don't just assume that putting everything in one or two bags is the best thing. In my case I have a Subaru Forester, and underneath the back removable flooring, there are a wealth of "nooks and crannies" built into the covering (removable) over the spare tire. There is more room around the spare itself.

Thus, I carry tools for the car, a FAK, various bug out gear, and a couple of collapsed back packs. All of this remains out of sight (no tempting bags visible from outside) and leaves the rest of the space in the car open for other things.

A Tantonka Barrel Roller

Favorite bag? Get a medium size (3500 cu in+/-) to carry items you would wish to take with you if you ever have to leave the car. As others have commented, many components can be distributed in various spots around the car.

Bags are good for some things, not so good for others. Some parts of my truck kit are in hard plastic crates, my winter supplement (extra wool clothes and stuff) is in a couple large nylon duffel bags.

Any EDC items would be in addition to what is in the truck. The idea being that if I can get to the truck nekkid and hungry, I have everything I need.

I've started putting together my own car kit, referencing the various threads and other internet sources. I have some stupid questions, and I figure I'd rather ask them now than pay for ignorance later.

1. Almost everyone includes jumper cables in their car kit. How useful are these actually? It seems to me that in town I can probably get towing service in the time it takes to find another car/driver to help jump the car. (Am I overestimating roadside service?) Away from town, it would be a long wait before someone stops to help. Wouldn't a standalone battery jumpstart system work better? Or would that be an overkill? Also, how likely is a car battery to fail? I have ever seen this in movies. (Of course, I don't think I actually know anyone who carries a kit in their car, much less go through the trouble of putting together one's own kit, so maybe this is all a preparation exercise.)

2. Some people have both towing ropes and chains in the kit. On another forum I found people advising against using chains or ropes with metal attachments. If they snap in half while towing, the metal bits could do serious damage to the car body and anyone standing in the way. So why do some people have both in their kit? What are the chains used for?

3. What do you do with tea lights? I will include a flashlight and matches. But it seems that some people include this ancient technology for reasons beyond my ken.

Thanks for the help!

Da Bing

Car batteries fail when you least expect them to; they are really fond of Murphy's Law. Without jumpers, you are SOL. With them, you have options.. Jumpers are not just for you - you might run into someone to whom you can give a jump.

I just bought my first standalone battery system. We'll see...

I like a good sturdy tow strap, not a rope. Whatever you use, keep people out of the path of the appliance. I once sacrificed a good climbing rope to tow some guy's RV and we managed to snap it. It was a very spectacular event. With the forces involved, any rope or strap breaking will inflict serious injury to anyone in the way, with or without metal.

Tow chains are very stiff, with no give or elasticity. I have found several times that the elasticity in nylon is beneficial in getting the stuck vessel to more or less "pop out." In a serious situation, you are likely to need both.

For me, jumper cables are as essential as the spare tire. In fact, I've used jumper cables far more than spare tires. And I've invested in good heavy-duty cables (4-guage) because all cables are not equal. I had a battery jumper that was a total waste of $$$ so no more for me unless I someday hear of one that is proven fabulous. I've never had trouble finding someone to give my car a jump -- plenty of good samaritans around and it's an easy favor.

Road Service -- my experience with AAA has been atrocious. For the past decade I've had road service with GEICO insurance and it usually takes about an hour for help to show up. That's in the middle of DC -- get stuck in a remote area and lotsa of luck getting road service any time soon, and that's if you have a cell signal to call for your road service.

I've run the battery down in my cars probably a dozen times in the past two decades - usually because of leaving an interior light or the headlights on. Extremely cold weather can take out an old weak battery (one of my Miatas at the end of a 5-year battery's life). I once killed the car battery because of recharging my Blackberry while camping. Another camper came to the rescue then.

Tea lights can help start a campfire, as well as provide some light. I have 9-hour UCO emergency candles in my car.

Tealight candles can Warm you up,Also!

I've used my jumper cables to help others at least two dozen times, and to help myself at least twice. I'd say they're essential. Tow services can get overloaded easily in a big storm.

Recently I've started carrying a standalone battery jumpstart system that includes a worklight and a compressor. But the jumper cables stay in the car.



Are you sure these are tow chains and not tire chains?



They produce more heat than most flashlights. With shelter that stops the wind a single candle can make a significant difference.

#1 - Jumper cables-usefullness varies a lot depending on circumstances including the quality of the cables, your knowledge, and where the battery decides to die. I have 16' very heavy duty cables (00 gauge) and use them about once or twice a year, usually to help someone else. Waiting for a tow truck / roadside service in the middle of a snow storm is no fun. I also have a standalone battery but that only works if your car battery is a bit low. If your battery is on its last legs a portable jumper just can't provide enough amps.

#2 - ropes, straps, chains. Tow ropes and straps are much more convenient and safer than chains for the average motorist. They can break but are a lot less dangerous than broken cables or chains. The metal hooks are needed on the straps/ropes so you can hook up without abrading (weakening) the material too much. I have both a tow strap and a chain for each vehicle but only put the chain in when I anticipate needing extra reach or strength. Once you have tension on a chain it doesn't "give" (well for practical purposes) unlike the straps which have a lot of elastic give in them. One bad (i.e. dangerous) use for a chain is to "pop" a car out of a snow drift. You can do it with a cable but the stretch really reduces the amount of instant force delivered to the car on the other end while a chain will go from zero to full force. I drive a jeep and securing the chain safely inside the cabin is a challenge so it is a matter of balancing risks. Again, I probably only use the tow straps every other year or so and the chain less often - but when I need it, I need it.

For both of these items, they are only useful if you are willing and able to use them. That includes understanding the risks since I have seen people seriously hurt trying to jumpstart a car or pull something.

- Eric

If your battery is in good shape and just run down from leaving something on (and I'm still amazed that some modern cars from brands that supposedly paid attention to even the smallest details don't have any kind of anti rundown protection) then one of those jump start kits will work, but if you have a battery that is having issues or very cold weather then they are seldom powerful enough. Jumper cables can get you started in those situations.
I've seen jumper cables used to work around a failing started solenoid as well.

It's wonderful that you guys are willing to help me put together my toys^H^H^H^Hemergency car kit. I went out today and this is what I got:

• 16' 6 gauge 500 amp jumper cable
• 30 yards of duct tape
• 60' of electrical tape
• 40" bungee cord x 2
• 60 second epoxy (w/ mixing spout so it's not all messy), 1250 psi - is this too little?
• WD-40 "pen"
• work gloves with leather palm
• tea candles
• 11' cable ties
• rags

I will add:

• handheld flashlight
• headlamp
• standalone torch - am I overdoing the lights?
• batteries
• tire gauge
• mini air compressor - recommendation?
• first aid kit
• blanket
• poncho
• baby wipes
• one of those triangle caution signs
• orange vest with reflector strips
• knife
• ice scraper
• help sign
• food & water
• power inverter (how many watts? I might have to power a laptop)
• fuses (once I figure out what I need)
• tow strap -- will 5,000 lbs do or will I need 10,000 lbs for a small SUV?
• Glock e-trench tool
• rescue tool -- probably that hammer thing, and I'll tape it under the seat
• ice scraper
• bag (1800 cubic inches). Not sure whether I can fit everything in. May have to split into stuff I need and stuff the car needs.

Now, I'm not sure of the following things

• Road flares vs. magnetic strobe that you can mount on top of the car. Do I need both?
• Tools. I home-improve and repair my computers, which often results in repairing both the home and the computers some more, but I have no experience fixing cars. What sort of tools will I need? I found the standard list of screw drivers, plier, wrench, etc. But these guys vary a bit.
• An even bigger question is how I can gain the knowledge to use them. As Eric points out, some of these items are useless without that knowledge. Are there manuals, or "automotive first aid" classes?

I'm trying not to have too much stuff in the kit, but the list just grows by itself...

Thanks again for your input!

Da Bing

Manuals are available at most parts stores (Autozone, CarQuest, NAPA to name a few). I like Chiltons Manuals but Haynes are pretty good too. These will have more information than you will probably need and assume a certain level of comfort with things automotive. I'd be willing there is an intro "auto repair for dummies" book at your local library or book store.

On the lights - personally I don't think it is possible to overdue there but my wife might have a different opinion. Each of my cars has at least 3 lights stashed around.

Towing - typical not huge SUVs have Gross Vehicle Weights under 6000 lbs and towing capacities around the same. Check your manual for your GVW and get a strap with at least that much capability. I always aim a bit higher but keep in mind my comments about lights as you read this.

Air compressor - lots of choices, I've had good luck with craftsman.

Inverter - My computer uses an 85W power adapter. Max capacity on most older "cigarette lighters" is ball park 150-180 watts. Newer "power ports" are often good for a bit more than 220 watts. I would probably go 150 watts.

For tools it really is a matter of what you are comfortable handling on the road. My Dad and Grandpa were mechanics so I carry a lot of tools and supplies. With modern cars the failure rate is a lot lower and so is your ability to fix things on the road.

Here is a link to my tool list in a recent topic discussing Winter Car kits. Good thread to look through, especially bacpacjac's list of supplies several posts above mine.

In addition to fuses etc., I also like to carry oil and transmission fluid in the car. Sears/Craftsman has some hard plastic "truck boxes" that are just about perfect for this.

-Eric

I wouldn't bother with a Glock trenching tool; they are needlessly expensive and function no better than a short shovel from the hardware store costing much less - there was an extensive thread on shovels for cars not too long ago.

Get lithium batteries for any lights you will leave in the car. They will hold their power much better than alkalines and won't leak.

Do you have the owner'smanual for your car? That is a good starting point for both repairs and tools you will need. The manual will also tell what fuses to get.

If a car is driven short distances (< 15 minutes), the battery will almost never have the chance to replenish what was used during startup. In winter you also add power hungry accessory like rear window heating and the ventilation fan running at full blast.

So, many cars won't have their battery at full capacity. Then you add the effect of low temperatures and the effect of the battery being slightly worn-out.... Suddenly, when it gets cold enough, there simply isn't enough juice to start the engine.

Even with the best of batteries it only takes a two year old to fiddle with the interior lights and the battery is totally drained the next day. My daughter did just that to our inlaw's old Mercedes diesel last Easter. Three days later, the "jump-start-kit" would have been totally useless trying to pre-heat and start that big close-to-vintage diesel engine. With jumper cables it was just standard routine and a walk in the park.



Any rope, wire or sling subject to load is LETHAL. STAY CLEAR! Metal bits or no metal bits, those things KILL if they snap.

Keep everyone out of the danger zone when trying to pull someone out of a ditch.



Tea lights were probably a necessity before the invention of dim, close-to-everlasting LED lights. (You should have at least one LED light with a low output, super long run time mode).

Today, they still provide coziness and a tiny bit of warmth. Inside a bivy bag, they're surprisingly effective as a heat source. Not great, but way better than nothing. In a car, I'd disregard the tiny heat output as insignificant except as a convenient way to make your can of sardines lukewarm.

But don't underestimate the positive effect on morale that a few romantic candles can give you

It is recommended that whenever a rope, strap or cable is used to pull a vehicle out of mud etc in an emergency situation, that a blanket or canvas tarp is thrown over the cable 'clothesline fashion' before it is under full load. If the cable/rope breaks, the blanket 'catches' it. Extreme caution is still needed of course.

Thanks Eugene. I've been debating getting a stand-alone unit like the Eliminator, or something similar. It's a bit bulky but I've used one a couple of times, both in non-winter, and it was a breeze. I thought about it again this morning when both our vehicles reconsidered the wisdom of going anywhere in the sub-arctic temps. If it won't work when it -30 outside the value is definitely less.

We have tried one of those little thingies that attach to the battery to give it a shot of juice if you leave you lights on or something and it was just crap. There may be better models out there but good old jumper cables and a friendly neighbour still seem more reliable than anything.

The owners manual also has the correct procedure for jump starting your car or using the spare tire. Some cars have a quirky jump starting procedure or it may not be recommended at all. The owners manual for one of my cars recommends only installing the spare tire on the front axle because using the spare on the rear axle may damage the differential. Reading the owners manual can save you from an inconvenience becoming a major repair.

Among the many weaknesses of the commercial kits are their short and wimpy jumper cables. Good choice for the heavy duty, long cables. I once was on a single lane, dirt road, with a mountain on one side and a cliff on the other and had to jump the car ahead of me. I was happy to have jumper cables that would reach to the front of the car in front of me.



I carry flares and triangles. Now they have some new triangles with built in flashing LEDs and I am contemplating those. I like having both. Flares are quick and easy and very bright. Triangles take a little more time to set up, but are useful in situations where you might not want to introduce fire (spilled fuel, etc). Also, they last longer than flares. Oh, and flares can be great fire-starters . . .

Guess what, guys, I've had to use my emergency kit already!!! Here's an account of my humble little adventure for those who helped me.

On the first trip I took with my new (used) car, I ran into trouble on the highway. The electrical system started going haywire, and the dash gave absurd readings on everything, and the car seemed to start shutting itself down (though the engine was still going). So I pulled up to the side of the road, hit the hazard lights, and I started -- excitedly, I confess -- digging through my emergency bag. I thought about putting out the warning triangle, but it was during the day, the visibility was decent, the road was straight, and if people couldn't see the car, they weren't going to see the triangle. So I put some extra flashing lights on the car & popped the hood. It didn't seem like an easily reparable problem, so I called roadside service, and had the car towed. (Truck showed up within 30 minutes.) Long story short, some part of the electrical system shorted, and the repair shop is working on it.

What is the lesson? While putting together the kit, I mentally ran through what I'd do with each piece, and that helped. Fortunately the conditions weren't bad, so I had time to run through my options. But I think rehearsing (even if just in your mind) is an essential part of preparation.


Da Bing

Hey, Bing_, it's a good feeling to have gear to help yourself.

Your fellow motorists appreciate you adding the extra visibility, believe me.

Earlier today, in medium heavy traffic, I drove by a small jeep-ish vehicle stopped/stalled in the middle driving lane (!). Hazard lights on, but geez, anybody distracted for more than 3-4 seconds would have plowed into that dude directly ... at speeds ranging from 90 kph (posted) to 110+ kph (typical). Talk about a bad ending waiting to happen ... yikes.

I can write volumes on how much AAA sucks based entirely on my own, real-life experiences. If you took their subscription fees and put it in a savings account you'd be much better off on money, time and aggravation.

I've had my battery go dead a couple of times, and was able to get a jump from a passer-by by raising my hood and standing roadside waving my jumper cables in less than 20 minutes each time.


Here's a thread about tow ropes: http://forums.equipped.org/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=191610

The summary is that a good recovery strap, rated at least 4x the weight of your vehicle, and without attached hooks, plus an appropriately-rated D-Shackle are all you need.


Even a candle can provide some warmth in a small, enclosed space. I guess tea candles are better than nothing, but I'd prefer a UTCO candle/lantern instead.

Many of the standalone jump start kits have a starting mode where it will use the lower capacity battery to charge a high-discharge capacitor, and then the capacitor actually is used to start the car. This is the same principal as employed by low-current battery charges that have a jump start mode.

Others specify in the instructions that you have to leave them connected for a certain period of time to recharge your primary battery, but this assumes there's any charge capability remaining in your battery.

re car batteries, the first time the battery in my truck dies it flatlined . . there was no recharging it . . when the next battery reached it's manufacturers (Interstate) drop dead date, I replaced it with a new one just like it because from my perspective it was totally trouble free. Interstate batteries seem to be pretty good -- no affiliation.

Tires are next . . .

I prefer the Sears Diehard Platinum batteries, which are private-labeled Odyssey PC5100's, largely considered the best batteries made at present. I do a lot of recreational off-road driving and camping, these batteries have significantly more reserve capacity for winching,using vehicle lights to setup camp after dark, and running a 12V/DC Engel refrigerator. I've also used Interstate deep-cycle batteries on my camping trailer, and they were okay for the money, but didn't last as long as I liked.

I carry so much gear in my Jeep that I'm embarrassed to list it all. I think I could gain 2 or 3 MPG if I ditched the stuff, but can't bring myself to do it. Normally I carry enough food and water (both lifeboat food/water rations and other food/snack items), rain/warmth gear, a well-stocked first aid kit, all to handle four people for 72-hours. Plus there's my tools, just about everything I might need to fix anything on the Jeep short of an engine or transmission rebuild, enough flashlights to illuminate an entire neighborhood, air compressor, shovel, spare clothing, even spare parts and fluids when I go off-road. And then there's my GHB, designed for 72-hours and high mobility, but could just as well be used to extend my in-place supplies.

Most of the stuff I've used to good result both on- and off-road. For example, I helped one family change a tire during a rainstorm when their lug-wrench broke (I have interchangeable sockets for my breaker bar), and twice this year I've strapped people back onto the road during a blizzard (in one case a pickup truck had an exit ramp blocked resulting in a two mile-long backup). Of course off-road I'm that guy who has whatever tool you need when your rig breaks, and often the spare part as well. In fact, that's really why I got interested in survival preparedness, for the long, often solo trips I take every now and then.

A few thoughts:
- Bring a large base plate for your car jack. If you get a flat on the road, chances are you will pull over to the side and onto dirt. A thick, wide base plate will help spread the weight of the jack and stop it sinking into the ground. I carry a couple of pieces of 50mm (2 inch) think off cuts; others may use a steel plate with bolt holes to lock the jack to it.

- Even if you don’t know how to use all the tools and spares you carry, it is still worth caring them because the person who stops to help you may know. Manufacturers are all different, I may not have the correct size tool for your car, and items like engine hoses; fan belts etc are very specialized sizes.

-There is also a sort of etiquette to offer a Good Samaritan use of your tools and equipment so that they don’t have to unearth theirs or get them dirty / damaged; having said that people often prefer to use their own tools, but its nice to not assume that they will have the tools / parts or that they will necessarily want to use their own. (On a trip, some of my tools can be buried quite deep in the back and its a job to extract them all. If its raining then this can be extra inconvenient).

-Compressors: There are lots of cheap compressors on the market, but if you have big tyres (eg 4WD, or even some large family sedans) the cheapies may not actually be able to pump them all the way up, and they will be slooooow ! An additional consideration is whether you intent to ever reseat a tyre on a rim. To do this you need a compressor that can deliver a large, high pressure volume in a short amount of time. Basically if you just want to pump up a small tyre, then a quality cheapy is probably OK, but if you have bigger tyres and want to reseat tyres, than you need a bigger, better, more expensive unit ! Activities like 4WDing sometimes necessitate lowering and then raising tyre pressure; with a slow compressor this can literally take hours – not so good if you are with other vehicles and they have to wait !

-Chains: I think its been covered, but chains are generally used for dragging or extending the reach of other straps or cables. For instance we use a chain to drag fallen trees off tracks. It is very abrasion resistant, so even if we have a winch, we put the chain around the tree so we don’t damage the winch cable.
A snatch-um strap is used to recover a vehicle which is stuck. This is a webbing strap with a 20%-30% stretchability and a recovering vehicle can pull it and use the kinetic force to gently pull a bogged vehicle; they are very effective. These can be used as a tow rope and work well, but are quite expensive, so often people use a similar, but less elastic strap. Because the straps are rated for only so many recoveries, and using then can get them very muddy, it is once again etiquette to offer your own and not rely on others to use theirs or muddy it – unless they offer.

Finally consider what you would need if you become stuck in your vehicle for an amount of time ? What if you had to leave your vehicle ? – leave a message on the dash; food; water; shelter; warmth; signalling. Think Car survival kit.

Some thoughts regarding tools:

Tires are usually put on with impact wrenches nowadays and are usually pretty hard to remove manually. I like to carry the appropriate impact rated socket, a breaker bar, and a pipe extension.

Car Toolkit: I try to carry inch and metric sockets, ratchet, spinner handle, (some torx, hex, phillips, flatblade, and socket insert bits that can be used with the spinner or ratchet) some cheap open ended wrenches, 5-in-1 Screwdriver, Utility Knife, Wire Cutters, inch/metric allen keys, needle nose pliers, vice grips, magnetic pickup, ballpeen hammer, mini-hacksaw, wonderbar, bright led flashlight, gloves, cloth rags, electrical tape (scotch super 88), gorilla tape, a container to hold parts in (usually use the cup the electrical tape comes in). This is all jammed into a small gatemouth toolbag. I have a safety orange tarp with the plastic sleeve it was shipped in (either can plug a shattered window in a pinch or pad your work area on a wet roadside), along with a wool blanket---these line my trunk. I carry an e-tool, estwing camp axe, and a gerber folding saw as my "expeditionary tools", though I supplement the e-tool with a fullsize snow shovel during the winter.

First time I ever bought new tires I went back for the free rotations. Then needed to take one off for something and it too two of us standing on a pipe on the lug wrench handle to get the nuts loose. I bought a torque wrench and from then on I just rotate tires myself.

I was in a parking lot jumping up and down on my lug wrench to change a flat not all that long ago. It occurred to me after the second time I fell that my wife probably would not be physically able to change a tire in a similar circumstance.

Later, I cut a couple lengths of galvanized pipe and stashed them with the spare in her car and mine. Hopefully more than doubling the lever arm of the lug wrench will allow her to break the lugnuts loose without hurting herself.

that's the worst part. i am a tire-changing pro, as long as i get the lug nut loose.

Yep, have those myself, but even with them a lug nut tightened too far you may not be able to get it off. Tightening your lug nuts to the proper torque goes a long way towards helping with that.

i ran this photo before--


the old Plymouth i bought for just hauling the canoe around had lug nuts that were just about impossible to get off with anything but a cross wrench and a pipe extender.a flat in one of the parking lots up at the wilderness canoe park or along the back roads on the drive up would have been a major hassle.i removed all the nuts and replaced with a drop of oil and a torque wrench.i also replaced the spare with a real tire so i could drive all the way home on it and not have to limp into a "end of the road" town for repairs and find the one gas station closed.
and by the way i never put that fire hazard propane and heat drum into it over the winter.i never drove it anyplace i could not walk home in a half hour.

coat the threads with "never seize"

You have to be careful, the torque is spec'ed with a dry bolt in mind. If you put anything on it, never seize, oil, etc you will need to dig out an engineering book and look up torque tables and adjust accordingly. You'll probably have to look up the existing torque in the chart then look at all the other inputs then look up the corresponding based on what you put on the threads.
If your not careful you could end up loosing the lug nuts, if a lug centric wheel break the lugs off with.

Speaking of lugnuts. It's not a bad idea to actually try changing a tire on a new (to you) vehicle with only the tools you'll have with you on the road.

I discovered with our 12 passenger van that each wheel has eight lug nuts and the nice long lug wrench that comes with it is too long to spin a full 360 degrees without hitting the ground. If you can't spin the nuts with your fingers because the studs are a little rusty, it would take hours to change a tire.

Any time I do any maintenance, from changing the oil, rotating the tires, change the belt, etc I use my truck tools to make sure I have what I need. If i don't have it and have to use from the garage I go buy that tool and add it in.
I've replaced a couple peoples batteries, alternator and removed and replaced my starter with my truck tools before.

Actually, I think if you apply dry torque specs to a lubricated nut, you will put excess preload (tension) on the bolt. This will cut it's lifespan (PING!). If you want the nuts and bolts (no pun intended) of how this works: google "Modified Goodman Diagram".



Same thing here. I needed to change a tire, and the guys at the shop must have gotten impact wrench happy. I had the same setup as CANOEDOGS, except instead of an extender I was using a 1 lb rubber mallet to break the lug nuts free. I have since replaced the tire iron with an 18 inch breaker bar and socket. It's a lot easier to change tires now.

I've broken my kit down into things I can ignore, things I can fix, things I can't, and emergencies.

Things I can fix by the side of the road: Extra water, oil, brake fluid, clutch fluid, and light bulbs. repair manual, tire pressure gauge, tire changing tools, bicycle pump (200 pumps from full flat to full inflated), channel locks, adjustable wrench, needle nose pliers, utility knife, and cowhide gloves. Bungee cords and duct tape as a last resort.

Things I can ignore: If I can't fix it and it's not involved in moving, turning, or stopping; it gets ignored.

Things I can't fix: walking shoes and a flashlight

Emergency: FAK, fire extinguisher, jumper cables. I also have one of those "Emergency car battery chargers", but I've never used it.

All the small stuff fits into a 5 gallon bucket. Jumper cables, fire extinguisher, and bicycle pump are strapped together