Book of knots

Can any of you suggest a good book on knots? I need to refresh myself and learn more. Thanks.

My favorite, for technical applications pertaining to caving, SAR, and the like is "On Rope" by Bruce Smith and Allen Padgett, published by the National Speleological Society.

The classic nautical reference is Marlinspike Seamanship. I can't find my copy and I can't recall the author.but it is very comprehensive, especially if you want to rig a four masted schooner.

Any particular application that you had in mind? That would help us recommend the best reference.

Just for basic knowledge. I am studying to be a wilderness guide. Not sure if I plan on Mountain climbing. I am going to take courses at my local college. The courses I am taking are - Fundamentals of back country living, Eastern Mountaineering, River safety and swift water rescue, Wilderness first responder and Adventure sports management. I plan on taking more but I am late as they are winter courses.

The great granddaddy of them all is "The Ashley Book of Knots" by Clifford W. Ashley. I have a copy and think anyone who seriously uses knots should at easy have easy access to a copy.

That said it is not necessarily the handiest book to learn knots from. Terminology is variable, knots, even quite familiar ones, are hard to look up because the names and designations are confusing. It is also fairly expensive at $65 list price. But it is considered to be the bible of knots and is considered a standard reference on the subject.

It is also a fun book to work your way through. I just nibble at it piecemeal but a friend spent a year's worth of late evenings and free time working his way through every knot and piece. He picked up a lot of hands-on experience and know-how. There are far worse ways of spending one's spare time.

The thing about knots is that pretty much everything anyone needs to do can be accomplished with far fewer than Ashley's 3900 knots. Most people on the street only know two or three. One of which is likely a false knot that just might get them killed if used in a critical situation.

But even professional sailors and mountaineers might only use six or seven knots regularly. Learn a half-dozen basic knots and learn to make them well and you have all you really need. Unless you just like learning new knots there isn't much need for a book.

I think "On Rope" will be a pretty good start - be sure and get the revised, 1996, edition.

Learn a few knots well (so you can tie them blindfolded in a cold shower - I am not exaggerating),especially the figure eight and its variations, the bowline, and clove hitch.

I have ABOK (The Ashley Book of Knots) too, and love it, but I would not recommend it for a beginning someone new to knots or just trying to relearn a few. It is more of a reference than a "How To" guide. I think someone tryng to us Ashley's book as their first learning book for knots will be severly disappointed. Ashley wrote a great book for people who are ALREADY into knots, not beginners.

"The Directory Of Knots" by John Shaw is one I would recommend for more practical use. I think I even saw this one on the bargain shelves at a Barnes & Nobles or Borders once too. So check there and you might get a good discount on the price.

"The Ultimate Encyclopedia of Knots" by Geoffrey Budsworth is not bad. For actually learning to tie the knots I like Shaw's book better, but for a colorful coffee table book for guests to browse through, the photography in Budsworth's book is very appealing. Budsworth's book is not bad, but sometimes they crop the pictures too close and you have no easy way to tell the standing end vs. the running end of the rope.

The selection of knots in both Shaw's and Budsworth's books should cover wall that the average person would need. Both books also contain some "Why would I want to learn THAT knot?" type of filler things, but those can be easily ignored.

I too have the Ashley's Book of Knots and am quite proud of it.It was one of my first purchases after I got to my ship in the Navy.That book is worn,dogearred and stained.It still smells like deisel fuel(I was on a oil replenishment ship)and has been around the world with me.As Haertig said,it is not for beginers but I would still get one if I came across one.Items like these have a habit of going to the wayside.The knoledge and history in it are priceless!


BOATMAN
John

I am certainly not familiar with your specific curriculum, but I would think that any wilderness guide course would cover the basics of rope use in mountaineering. Not that you are going to do long, exposed routes, but there are countless situations where the proper application of rope will enable a risky passage to be accomplished safely and securely.

I would also suggest Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, put out and revised by the [Seattle] Mountaineers since 1960. It is a classic. Besides the stuff on knots and rope handling, there are great chapters on wilderness travel, navigation, leadership, safety, weather, etc. The seventh edition is a bit pricey ($38) but it should be in your school's library.

I have been researching knots lately too. I don't have any book recommendations but check out the website Animated Knots by Grog.

From what I have read over various forums and websites, the recommended knots to learn (for general purpose applications) are these:
Square knot
Bowline
Two Half hitches
Taut line
Clove hitch
Figure eight
Sheet bend
Prusik

I want to stress that I'm not an expert at knots, these are simply the knots that I am working on learning myself.

-Robert

As a good portable refrence,
I like " The Handbook of Knots "
by Des Pawson.

It is a good introduction to
knot and line terminology,
and contains enough knots to be
useful, but not so many as to be
overwhelming.

My favorites for basic knowledge:
The Morrow Guide to Knots by Mario Bigon and Guido Regazzoni
and
Knots by Peter Owen

Both have excellent illustrations/photos with most basic knots and some exotic ones. Great for sitting with various cord lengths and practicing through the winter!

Get a set of "Knot Playing Cards. I got mine at Campmor.

That would seem to cover the majority of knot needs IMO.

A few months ago I went to tie a taut line hitch and could not recall how. So now I have a piece of paracord in my shirt pocket to practice knots. I like the Zeppelin bend as well. Has a cool name to it.

I would point out that a square knot is easy to upset if you pull on a tag end while it is under tension.

IMHO, a square knot is useless in any significant application - highly over rated.

Rbruce, I would add a fishermans knot, or bloodknot, to that (I think they are the same knot).
Hikermor, the square not is great, when the lines are under tension. I have used it many, many times, backing it up with a half hitch, for climbing, and general knot tying around campsites. Its easy, and secure, when used for the applications the know is intended for.
IMHO, there is no real reason to learn more than 9 knots-other than for fun. If what you are trying to do cannot be done with the knots that rbruce has listed, then you are either in a REAL bad situation, or you're a sailor .

On that topic, I recall reading about the old whaling days, and all the pirate and pole exploration books that boys read when young (or used to), and I was always fascinated that sailors knew how to tie these intricate knots, and knew for what applications. I used to think it would be cool to be a sailor, just to learn the knots! Ah, the simplicity of youthful dreams!

Missing from this list is a good bend ("bends" are used for joining two ropes together). The "Sheet bend" is a bend, but not a terribly good one IMHO. There are others that are much better. A "Hunters bend" (a.k.a. "Riggers bend") is far superior. As is the very similar "Zepellin bend". My favorite bend is the "Shake Hands", but you rarely see this one documented.

For hitches, my choices are "Round Turn and Two Half Hitches" or a "Slipped Constrictor Knot". The "Constrictor" is the best of all binding knots IMHO, and it can also be used as a hitch. But if you ever want to get it to let go of what you tie it to, you better slip it! The Clove Hitch isn't bad, but only so long as your direction of pull on it remains constant. Pulling it from either side or "unrolling" it can lead to failure. The "Buntline Hitch" is good too, but can be difficult to untie after severe tightening.

Great suggestions and I'll check out some of the books and pocket guides mentioned. I am familiar with the Grog site. I have practiced a few and am already familiar with others. As far as schooling goes I just want to be ahead of the game and come into it with some knowledge already in my corner. you can never be too prepared. Thanks to you all!!

I am glad you have survived the use of the square knot and not had an accident. I am quite serious and I am not trying in the least to be funny or sarcastic.

I looked through some of my references for mention of the square knot, so I could offer something besides my own opinions. Three of my more modern references didn't even mention the square knot; another only listed it in a table, offering that a square knot reduced the strength of the rope to about 43-47% (compared to 80% for a figure eight). Finally in a 1942 publication I found the following "For joining two ropes a fisherman's knot...will be found better than a square knot... and is easier to undo afterward."

The generally preferred knot for joining two ropes together, as say to establish a rappel, would be the double fisherman's knot; some use a variation of the figure eight for this application. I would not quibble at seeing a double sheet bend applied to this purpose but I would never put body weight on a rope joined with a square knot.

I began technical climbing around 1957, later including vertical caving and technical rescue, being particularly active from around 1965 to 1985. Even now as a geezer, I still do the occasional rappel to retrieve a juicy paleontological specimen. In all this time, I have never heard or read of anyone advocating use of a square knot for any technical purpose, with the single exception of the quoted reference above.

What I have observed over time is the greater detail paid to knot tying, the increasing use of more secure variations of knots (such as double loop bowlines for the standard bowline), the better analysis of accidents, and the universal precaution to back up every knot tied with two half hitches or the equivalent. A lot of this has to do with the now universal use of synthetic materials in climbing ropes compared to the manila or hemp ropes in use until after World War II. Some of the more recent synthetics (Spectra and Dyneema) don't knot well at all and must be sewn or knotted with a triple fisherman's knot - the characteristics of the rope must be considered when deciding upon the appropriate knot to employ.

Here's a list of reviews of knot-tying books:
http://www.earlham.edu/~peters/knotlink.htm#bookstore
which includes sections on rope rescue knots:
http://www.earlham.edu/~peters/knotlink.htm#roperescuebooks
and climbing knots:
http://www.earlham.edu/~peters/knotlink.htm#climbingknotsbooks

The square knot is a binding knot. That is what it was intended for. In that use it is good. It is NOT however, intended to bend (join) two ropes together. It is absolutely terrible for that purpose, whether kept under tension or not. The fact that you've suggessfully used it for climbing is nothing more than luck. Each time where you lucked out before you could have just as easily been a Darwin Award winner instead. I am not saying this to sound belligerant, but the square knot has probably killed or injured many people by being improperly used as a bend than any other knot. But don't trust me - go read any reputable knotting book and find out that every knotting expert says the same thing about the square knot. It is neither a strong nor a secure knot. Its good enough if you're just tying a bundle of newspapers together. But don't use it for anything more critical than that.

I'm surprised that no one has listed the most-used knot on the planet...the Triple Granny

Haertig, I should've specified-I used it for tying in a swiss seat, and backed it up with half hitches. Thats the only time it was ever used-I didnt intend for that to be read as I splice lines together, or anything like that-if I did, and reading back on it, it could certainly be taken that way-I apologize. I guess thats how misinformation spreads

I don't know - I tie a square knot on a bight (actally dual bights) every morning - twice

(Think shoes)

I'm OK with knots (Hey, I was a boy scout - right...) The one thing I've almost totally forgotten (and have to use a book, and I'm still not sure it's RIGHT) is splicing - particularly eye loops

Anyone in the NYC area really know splicing, and care to teach a bit of splicing?

I am surprised at how many people do not know basic knots of some sorts.There are many high school teenagers that can barely tie their shoes.I am also surprised that many people don't have the knowledge to tie fishing knots.How many people on the forum carry hooks and line in their PSKs.It would be a shame if they could not tie them together properly.Good knots for joining a hook to line are the palomar and Trilene knot.The palomar is good for spectra braid (think Spiderwire)and the Trilene is good for monofilament.Remember to wet the line before tightening as too prevent friction and weakening the knot and losing fish...

BOATMAN
John

A knot that I find myself using more and more is the alpine butterfly. Its easy to tie and easy to undo, and has a number of advantages over other loop knots.

IMHO the best, fastest and most effective, way to learn the basic knots is to attend a class.

I have taught a short course as part of a spelunking trip and found that two hours of rope work, and fun, and a quick ten minute refreshed before going in was effective. Even years later quite a few of the people remember most of the knots. Learning in person makes a lot of things clear that might get lost online or on paper.

Perhaps the biggest thing to learn is how to 'dress' a knot. A marginal knot well dressed is often better than a great knot left undressed.

Working from memory I included:

Square knot - include warning, demonstration of failure by inversion and using half-hitches for safety.

Bowline - include use of half hitch as safety. Teach one-handed tying if time allows.

Sheet bend - also double sheet bend.

Clove hitch -include warning of it rolling loose and half-hitch for safety.

Round turn and two half hitches

Rolling hitch.

Swiss seat.

Bowline on a coil.

Alpine Butterfly - teach both 'twist' and 'coil' methods of tying.

figure eight stopper.

There is always controversy over which knots to include, and which to leave out. Everyone has their favorites and knots they dislike. I like this list because it is short, the knots are simple to tie, most can be ties by touch alone, easy to understand, and anyone who masters the list can do most things effectively.

Of course there is some redundancy in even this short list. Experienced knot people will immediately spot that the sheet bend and bowline are the same knot. Or that a rolling hitch is a clove hitch with an extra wrap.

The bowline on a coil is a bit esoteric but was included because we weren't using harnesses. The drops were small and the rope was used as a safety while they climb up and down.

The alpine butterfly is strong, handy and fun to tie and fun to teach but a slipknot and half hitch would work as well in most fixed rope cases. I include the butterfly because every time you tie it you feel like you did something.

The rolling hitch doesn't have much use in climbing, prussic would be better, but it is just so useful in every day life that I put it in. It's important if you sail.

Trucker's and timber hitches are good additions. The Flemish bend is a good one.

Did you mean to say "knotledge"?