What am I missing in my cold weather PSK ?

Scenario: Snowmobiling for 4 days in very cold weather -20f with wind chills from 40 to 60 mph wind. Distance will be about 90 miles per day from small town to small town. Desolate area between towns with occasional riders on the trails. Gear capacity is limited to large back pack with half of the space allocated for thermal underwear changes and minimal toiletries. Party size is two men.

My kit so far:
PLB and Sat phone w/ 3 batteries.
Current paper trial map and compass.
GPS with trail map
MSR Dragon fly stove and small fuel bottle.
Minimal utensils (cooking pan/pot).
About three meals of mountain house-type pack food.
Windproof matches
Regular matches
flint steel, dryer lint, magnesium chips, permalog type emergency tinder balls..
Pocket knife
Aircraft duct tape and foil tape
small foldable shovel
15' tow strap
signal laser (red)


What items can you think of that I am missing?

Any items in my list I should omit?

Thanks in advance.

Craig

You might want to carry some trioxane or esbit tabs, im only 15 so i have never been in a really bad situation, (lost over cold night while morel hunting) <-WOO, no big deal, but fi you cant start a fire with wet wood ( melted snow) i reccomend them because they arent bulky or heavy. pretty well equipped though! good kit!

First Aid Kit appropriate for conditions.

Rather than food that must be heated and soaked, I would pack things like peperoni and cheese that can be either heated or eaten as is - take plenty of calories for cold weather. I think I would make that a large fuel bottle. Melting snow takes a lot of gas.

You will need to stay hydrated in cold weather. At least a canteen, but even better would be a thermos of at least a quart capacity with a wide mouth.

Worst case scenario - you need some sort of shelter and probably a sleeping bag, although I understand snowmobile suits are really warm. Just be sure you can spend the night out if you have to.

What about tools and repair kit? I would definitely carry a multi tool rather than merely a pocket knife. Maybe it's just me, but I would include at least 60 feet of nylon rope (you always need a bit of rope) - versatile item that can do a lot.

How large is your large back pack? - capacity in cubic inches.

For a four day trip, I would plan on wearing one set of thermals, with another pair reserved for emergencies. This would free up space. Toiletries would definitely be minimal - skin oils provide some protection from the cold.

I have never snow mobiled, but I am surprised you don't have more capacity. You are not carrying any more than a touring skier, who would also carry a large back pack.

Sounds like an interesting trip. Have fun!

looks like Hike gave the right advice.more fuel for the stove and some real high energy foods..i assume you have a repair kit and spare gas.with other riders around and that phone you would be at worse inconvenienced if anything went wrong and not looking at a survival situation.i would keep a eye on the weather,just cold is no big deal with modern snowmobile suits but a heavy snow storm could slow you down to the point of not making the next town for the nite..if you get a chance stop someplace at the end of the trip and try and make a fire with the kit you have along to see how it works out in "real life"..photos would be great--

Hi, Craig. Sounds like a great trip. A few thoughts:

More calories, definitely. Even a big jar of peanut butter.

Tarp and light rope for quick windbreaks or the roof of a shelter? (A colour that is highly visible on snow would add signalling capability.)

Insulating pad between you and the cold, cold ground?

Folding saw for firewood?

Siphon tube for getting gas from your sled? (I assume you have oil injection; not sure if the MSR will run well on pre-mix.)

Signalling gear -- maybe add a signal mirror and a super-loud noismaker (like one of those hand-held air horns); maybe some flagging tape also?

Flashlight/headlamp?

Toilet paper?

Finally, is this kit duplicated for each snowmobiler? Maybe split up the PLB and the SatPhone between the two of you?

Have fun!

Hmmmm. Not sure I am clear.

Is this list just your kit to be used only in emergencies, and not part of what you intend to use along the way?

Are you carrying other things to address the ongoing regular need for water, shelter, fire, food, first aid, navigation, signaling, hygiene, and morale?

To me, minus 20 plus wind chill from 40 plus mile an hour winds is pretty serious stuff to contend with for 4 days. Will you have re-supply and shelter options in the towns you visit?

Am I correct in reading the scenario that you expect to travel less than 3 hours per day? Are you going to camp out nights?

Bivi bag and tarp or similar
FAK
decent knife (can you carry a fixed blade?) plus a saw and a multitool
Whistle
Something you dont need to cook to eat

None of this needs to be too bulky - and while you can survive without it, any fool can be uncomfortable

Even with your ability to signal your position in an emergency, SAR might not have the ability for a quick rescue in temperatures approaching -30C (wind chill @ 50mph will approach temperatures around -60C ). These are very very cold temperatures approaching Antarctic expedition temperatures so you will need a sleeping bag and mat used from the expedition kit lists used in the Antarctic.

Here is a typical Antarctic sleeping bag. Expensive yes but so are missing a few toes and fingers.

http://www.phdesigns.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=66

An Exped Downmat 9 Deluxe is also an excellent choice for a ground mat

http://www.rei.com/product/780366

A Goretex Bivi bag would also be extremely useful even though the sleeping bag above has Drishell outer fabric. A Vacuum Flask is a must in very low temperatures for keeping water in a liquid state, which is essential in such dry and arid conditions.

BTW there isn't that many calories in Mountain House freeze dried packs. I would just take along lots of chocolate. As you can see from the quantities in the British Antarctic Survey BAS ration pack

http://www.photo.antarctica.ac.uk/external/guest/detail/cart/10003853/1/8

Lots of Cadbury's Milk Chocolate are shown in the BAS ration packs

Hikermor: first aid kit – One of the riders is a RN and he is putting together a first aid kit so that area will be covered. My pack capacity is about 50L and the other rider’s pack will be about the same.

Canoedogs: We will have a NOAA radio and typically we will get a weather report and advice from the lodge before starting a new leg of trip.

Dougwalkabout: The modern toys won’t be duplicated (most everything else will). The satphone and plb will be split.

Dweste: Just an emergency kit. We are staying in lodges along each leg of the trip and also stop off somewhere for lunch. Average outdoor time will be about four hours before coming in for lunch, stopping for gas, warming up, lodging etc. Definitely not camping out – we want to avoid that.

My revised list from the received feedback.

LB and Sat phone w/ 3 batteries (split between riders)
Current paper trail map and compass.
GPS with trail map
MSR Dragon fly stove and small largest msr fuel bottle.
Minimal utensils (cooking pan/pot).
About three meals of mountain house-type pack food.
Windproof matches
Regular matches
flint, steel, dryer lint, magnesium chips, permalog type emergency tinder balls..
Pocket knife
Aircraft duct tape and foil tape
small foldable shovel
15' tow strap
signal laser (red)
-------------------------
Water bottle
Multi-tool
60ft nylon rope
energy bars, peanut butter, jerky and cheese
LED flashlight and headlamp.
toilet paper
tarp for wind break, roof shelter.
whistle
10 ft tubing for siphoning gas.

That kind of cold? I'd add a four season tent, winter weight sleeping bag, double sleeping pad - Tied on the seat behind you. ( rent what you don't own - REI or a local college outdoor desk.)

No chemical heat packs? I'd carry at least a half a dozen.

TRO

Its been said before but I'd add a Sierra Saw / folding saw. Especially since your on ATVs.

Updated List:

PLB and Sat phone w/ 3 batteries (split between riders)
Current paper trail map and compass.
GPS with trail map
MSR Dragon fly stove and small largest msr fuel bottle.
Minimal utensils (cooking pan/pot).
About three meals of mountain house-type pack food.
Windproof matches
Regular matches
flint, steel, dryer lint, magnesium chips, permalog type emergency tinder balls..
Pocket knife
Aircraft duct tape and foil tape
small foldable shovel
15' tow strap
signal laser (red)
-------------------------
Water bottle
Multi-tool
60ft nylon rope
energy bars, peanut butter, jerky and cheese
LED flashlight and headlamp.
toilet paper
tarp for wind break, roof shelter.
whistle
10 ft tubing for siphoning gas.
-------------------------
Hotronics M4 foot warmers (these are wicked awesome - forgot to mention these previously).
Chemical heat packs
pfak
folding saw
vaccuum flask for water.

Not much room for a sleeping bag and tent. Any recommendations for emergency/survival shelter?

I am honestly puzzled - about your carrying capacity. All you can carry on a snowmobile is a hefty day pack (50L capacity or approximately 3,000 cu in))? I have no experience with snowmobiling, so this is an honest question - please enlighten me.

My cold weather snow experience is ski touring and climbing in similar temperatures, but on any trip, we would carry packs of up to twice the capacity you list. Those would be adequate to carry the gear proposed here. Isn't there any way to affix duffel bags or similar to the snowmobile?

One thing about a sleeping bag - consider it part of your FAK, since any significant injury will not just be the injury but the injury plus potential hypothermia. You need to keep the victim warm....

Perhaps you didn't mention it because you have it somewhere else, but I would put a few reliable windproof lighters on the list, as well as a windscreen/block for the stove. I would include one that is larger/longer, such as the ones used to light grills, so your hand isn't near the stove and you can operate it with your gloves on (ie, the trigger operated ones). This is important if your gloves are synthetic - you won't want them near the flame.

I say this bc using matches to light a stove in that wind won't be fun/easy. Even the best windproof matches go out in 40 mph wind, in my experience. The really good lighters may not be that much better, but relight is easy and you only need a moment of flame to catch a gas stove -- and you can position the long lighters right next to the gas outlet for an easy light.

Dan

Hikermor:

Carrying a very large pack when traveling at 40 to 50 mph is very challenging if the trails aren't smooth as glass. A good jolt from a bump and larger bag can bounce around potentially throw you from the machine.

We typically rent sleds (slang for snowmobile) and depending on the make/model there can sometimes be very little room to affix packs. Sometimes there will be room on the back deck behind the seat to bungee packs down and we can carry more. We don't know the exact model sled until we show up at the outfitter's location; we can only reply on knowing engine type and size, and track length and paddle depth. So we plan for no room on the sled. Most sleds will have some sort of compartment on the tail but they are usually small and we fill that up with extra two cycle oil.

I've fit most of the stuff on list in my pack on previous trips. I may upgrade to a larger pack for this trip though. I also carry a smaller front waist pack for quick access items (flashlight, jerky, glove liners, etc.)

Good point on the sleeping bag being a part of the FAK. Looking for something lightweight and pack up small.

Sensei:

My stove (MSR Dragon fly) comes with a full wind screen. I did not know windproof matches go out a that wind speed. Good to know, thanks. Any recommendation on a small windproof lighter?

Avalanche potential?

Training, Beacon, Probe and Shovel for each.

Snow saw and clinometer for the group.

Really like the Tracker beacon for its simplicity and
speed of use.

If you can and have the ability and you are truly concerned if issues pop up I would sugest pulling a slead and negating the space issue.

If the trails you are on are highly traveled you may (please no one shoot me for this) be able to get away without the need for sleeping bags and tent/bivisac. Personaly I would find a sled trailer that you can pull and put the gear you need on the sled and not have to worry about spending an night out on the trail.

I was talking to a friend of mine and he does about 120 to 150 miles a day on his slead, so 90 per day is resonable.

One of my concerns is that you don't know the area and that you are on a motorized mode of transportation. Why the conern about the motor? Besides the obvious about breaking down and all that there is the conern that when things go wrong, they will go wrong fast and in a bit way. All it will take is about 20 min of "I am on the trail" thinking when you are not on a trail at all and next thing you know you are about 10 to 20 miles from the trail or anything.

As for gear,, I cant recomend enough that you Carry a sheath knife. Yeah you have your pocket knife, but have you ever tried to open a pocket knife with a glove on? and don't even put that sucker near your teath to try to open it, even one handed opening knives don't realy work well with gloves on. If you had to get to the knife due to an emergency you will not pay attention to where you put your glove as you rip it off, and next thing you know once the chrissis is overted, or delt with, your wearing a sock on your hand trying to keep your fingers warm.


Having the GPS is great, but a compas doesn't take bateries!



I don't know what kind of tow strap your bringing but you cna usualy get away with replacing that and recovering some fo the space, with 1 inch webbing and carabiners (NO, it isn't perfect but you can regain about 1 square foot of space by doing this)


I woudl add a camelback drinking system,, they make them for the winter and can keep your watter warm to prevent freezing and allow you to drink on the fly.

Snow shovel. and if you are going into back country you need a hatchet/ax,

Just some thougths.

Don't they make some sort of panniers that fit over the seat?

Blizzard bags might be part of an option for extra protection
if immobile.

No avalanche potential. We are "marked trail" only type of folk plus we will be in the midwest. If we were venturing into avalanche domains I would look into an ABS pack but first I would want to learn how to use a Beacon.

I'm sure they do but the challenge would be fitting it an unknown sled model. If I had my own sled I would get something to carry cargo

edit: as always late to the rodeo. FWIW here is my original post.

Let's check against the essentials:

1) First Aid - not in your list so unless you have a dedicated kit with the snowmobile you are not mentioning add this to your kit. Even if you do have a kit with the snowmobile add at least a small FAK as there is always the possibility you will get separated from the snowmobile. Consider the possibility of broken bones and add a sam splint to the FAK as well. Also see what Hikermor said about the FAK in his post.

2) Shelter - not in your list either so add some shelter items - tent if space allows, tarp and rope, maybe the heatsheet 2.0 insulated bivvy on your person (see more about on your person items below).

3) Warmth - this category encompasses not only fire making items but extra clothing, blankets/sleeping bags, warmers, candles, etc. Ditto hikermor, add a good sleeping bag. Other good suggestions regarding ground pad too. You have some ok fire making items but I would rethink the dryer lint. Unless it has some accelerant or other additive to increase its burn time and heat output you might be surprised how ineffective it can be. I certainly was when I tried to use a small amount to start a fire from some moderately wet wood. I used my knife to get some shavings from what appeared to be the dryest parts of the wood, arranged it around the dryer lint and lit it up. The dryer lint burned up so quickly the shavings never even had a chance to ignite. Fortunately this was not an emergency situation and I have since replaced dryer lint with tinder quik tabs. If you decide to keep the lint in your kit, make sure you can start a fire with it every time; practice with some wet wood as well. I would suggest the addition of some long burning candles as well as a good lighter and some strike anywhere matches with a tinder quik in a waterproof case to be carried in a zippered pocket on your person. There are also several fire starting/fire making kit threads on the forum to look through as well. Away from fire making, add some warmers to your kit.

4) Water - See what hikermor suggested about canteen or thermos; maybe a nalgene bottle instead (wide mouth may be easier to work with). Maybe some water purification tablets too.

5) Signaling items - Hikermor has already touched on some of these. Signal mirror, plastic pealess whistle, brightly colored tarp, flagging tape, orange duct tape, rescue streamer, maybe even something to color the snow (I was thinking food coloring but surely there is something better). A brightly colored bandanna is a decent signaling aid and could also serve many other uses as well.

6) Food - what everyone else has said, high calorie, low prep (but something warm would sure hit the spot if you can fire up that stove ). Ditto extra fuel for the stove as well.

7) Tools - Good fixed blade would be ideal, multi-tool a very good idea, sharpener, flash light (no need for anything big or bulky or fancy, an LED headlamp should do nicely), extra batteries (for everything, not just the light), saw would be good but not necessary (uses a lot of energy you may want to save for other things).

8) Personal Protection and comfort - Sunscreen and sunglasses (yes even in winter; think snowblindness; also the reflection of sun off the snow can cause severe sunburns too); TP or wipes; lined work gloves; hand sanitizer; and bear spray, if that is an issue.

9) Multi-purpose and repair - repair kits for all items (tent repair, glasses repair, stove repair, etc); safety pins; sewing kit; ziploc bags of various sizes; waterproof paper and pencil; rubber bands; zip ties of various sizes; make a flat pack of your duct tape by wrapping it around a credit card or other plastic card of similar size; garbage bags; aluminum foil. Since these are all small items you may want to put them into another container so they do not get lost in the bottom of your pack.

10) Navigation - map, compass and GPS all already there so you should be good to go.

Other items: playing cards or other entertainment.

Also I would consider carrying some bare minimum items on your person in case you get separated from your pack. Check out Doug Ritter's Pocket Survival Pak ( http://www.equipped.org/psp/index.htm ), it is a good place to start and also contains many of the items mentioned above. Supplement with a good pocket size first aid kit, a good shelter item, water items (like carry bag and purification tabs), a good large bladed folding knife (or possibly the pocketknife you mentioned or the multitool we have suggested for you), small flashlight, and extra fire starting items. For the larger pack kit you should also check out Doug's 72 hour kit ( http://www.equipped.org/72hourkit.htm ) for some good suggestions (obviously some things don't apply to your situation and other items should be added to fit your needs). If the area you will be riding in has the proper materials you may be able to improvise some of these items and save some space in your kit. All goes to experience and skills. Tough to improvise though if you have a broken leg or arm. Keep that in mind too. As far as what you can eliminate, I have already mentioned what you might consider replacing. It depends on how comfortable you are with the items. I would certainly not suggest you go with something you are not experienced with vs something you have worked with for several years. That said, I would eliminate the windproof and regular matches and replace with good lighter and strike anywhere matches in a case as mentioned above. Add some of the pro force wind and waterproof matches (the ones used by the SAS). Upgrade the pocketknife to a multitool and/or larger folder. I would consider eliminating the signal laser but honestly am not familiar with its abilities. That's your call to make. It goes without saying certain items need to be kept warm and/or dry. Sorry for the lengthy post and hope this helps.

A whistle can come in handy

Not really practical to pull cargo sled from a trail machine. A touring machine maybe but I don't get much enjoyment from a touring machine. Plus, pulling a sled will kill the mileage range.


Not concerned about the motor. Concerned about arriving at a gas station and they are out of two cycle oil. Or out of the brand the outfitter insists on for their equipment.


I agree and a compass is already on my list.



Folding shovel is on the list. Folding saw is on the list as well.

I agree and it is on the revised list.

thanks!

Mark, Wow. super post. Thank you!

Your welcome, and Thank you for the vote of confidence. Others with more experience than myself seem to have already made similar and probably better suggestions. Like my edit said, late to the rodeo again. I should have refreshed the thread before I posted.

A whistle is important. But I think it will take a lot more to get the attention of other sledders whizzing by. That's why an air horn may be better in this situation.

BTW, your list is coming along. Good luck on your trip!

Packets of Jell-O mix in bright colors, such as strawberry, are excellent for staining snow to make a signal. Hot Jell-O liquid makes a good warming drink, too.

Hot Gatorade is pretty good, too. Especially when mixed in with the oatmeal and raisins...

I hear you. I hate to wear anything on my back when bicycling for basically the same reason. That is why I will put the weight almost anywhere else - panniers are great.

I would imagine some of these items could be carried on your body in pockets and the like. That way you can be sure you have them. If kept warm, Bics are great lighters - also light and cheap.

There is no problem what so ever dragging a sled with a trail machine. Agreed, it's boring because you can't play as much as when you don't pull anything, but you need only one sled and you can rotate on the job.

You need only one (small) sled to bring complete, comfortable camping gear for the whole group (tent, groundsheet, sleeping pads, sleeping bags, stove). Add two jerry cans of gas, that'll more than make up for the lost mileage. Two jerry cans is about 40 kilos. Camping equipment is perhaps 40 kilos if you're generous. 80 kilos (about 160 pounds) is virtually nothing when mounted on a sled. You can easily pull that kind of load with basically any kind of machine unless conditions are really marginal. My own experience with this is from Spitsbergen, not many gaz stations there... Most trips involved at least two jerry cans on a sled. (Although I freak out when I think of how we utterly failed to prepare on some of our trips... whish I then knew what I've learned from this site...)

Most likely, you've already made the decision for no sled. That's OK, it is your choice, a sled would make life a bit easier but it's not impossible. I just want to make sure that you don't make that choice on false assumptions.

Another safety factor that is really important: I assume each rides his own machine - that is a huge safety asset. When (not if, when!) a machine breaks down you can saddle up two on one machine and ride home. It's boring and a pain to ride two on one machine, but it sure beats freezing your butt off...

As for the details of the equipment - I really have nothing to add. I'd say there is really good advise in this thread - kudos to all that has contributed

Just cause I love sledding - I will add my .02

As far as your equipment dont overload your sled. It will make you top heavy if you get on a hill or deep powder.

If you are on a 2 seater turn your pack into a back rest or a bigger back rest for your passenger. If no passenger, lay it flat so you can lean against it.

other then that the key to snowmobiling is NOT to get lost stuck or broke down. Most of the time (recommended all of the time) you will be with at least one other snowmobile. Have equip to:

stay warm
find where you are/where you need to be
eat / hydrate
be rescued.

I am not down playing any suggestion put forth, it has been my experience though that you pack enough to walk back to your camp / trailer. If you plan on making distance (100's of miles) have a cell phone / sat phone and an extra battery.

I am jealous, have fun and WEAR A HELMET!

In order to not hijack this thread, I created a new thread on medications in below 40F temperatures. Most meds seem to like to be stored at "room temperature".

And one with an electric shield. I switch to electric about four years ago and now will never ride with one. Absolutely wonderful in cold snowy weather and I consider part of my PCK (Personal Comfort Kit).

Could only reply to one of the replys on improvised snow dyes. Not intending to hi-jack but do you mix the jello/gatorade/kool aid powders first or just put the powders straight on the snow? I knew others on the forum would have some insight on this. Thanks to Jeff, nighthiker, and hikermor. Thanks in advance for any replies. Not trying to hi-jack so behave yourselves .

P.S. Thinking about the lost hikers on Mt Hood and the impact weather had on that Search and Rescue. CC, mind the weather reports not only for your travel plans but also for any SAR attempts.

After Years of research the US Military discovered that warmed instant Jell-O (NOT the sugar free kind) is the best way to help a person recover from hypothermia. I carry about 4 packets of them in my winter Bag. It was a required item to have when I took my Wilderness EMT class at SOLO in North Conway NH.

I respect your decision not to pull a sled, infact the renter may forbid it. But I must adress the issue of preformance and pulling a sled.

During my time with the State of Maine's College Conservation Corps and donig SAR in Maine I often was on a sled that I pulled a modified dog sled with (***WOOOF***) The sled had a 1 inch thick plywood triangele and a Universal joint that connected the sled to the snowmobile. This allowed me to pull gear (as in Chain saws, chains, straps, grip-hoists, fuel, food, axes,, you get the point), or people, plus one of my coworkers would ride in the mushers position on the dog sled (no he never cracked a whip, but he did yell "MUSH you Skirvy dog" a lot).

During this time (about two winters) I would patrol trails that were groomed as well as break new trails and do rescue missions. I had that snowmobile and dog sled combo in up to 3 feet of fresh unbroken snow, launched it in jumps (my coworker never let me live it down when we launched about 10 feet in the air) and managed to find lost snow mobilers on the trail and bring them back using the dog sled as a trailer.

While I did have to be aware of overhead objects(almost took off my coworkers head once or twice), to be honest I never noticed the weight as slowing me down, nor preventing me from going somplace that was "intresting" There must have been a bit of a tax on the motor more than if it was just the snow mobile alone, but to be honest,, The benifit outweighed any loss of mobility.

ChicagoCraig, I do realize that where your going the snow will be deeper, and a finer powerder than I was donig in the East Coast, so the decision to not take a slead I can understand. I also have to not my personality type is to enjoy a snowmobile that would have a double long track, and is more methotical and powerful, than fast and fun. so for me slapping a sled on the back would be easy peasy.

Based on your earlier post I thought maybe you had done this before (or knew someone that had done it). I just wasn't sure if the coloring would go very far or work as a powder; or lose it's impact as a liquid. If it was windy it would seem leaving it as a powder would be a bad idea also. Of course we do have plenty of snow right now so i could experiment some tonight.

I'm a big fan of small and lightweight. I also believe in eating my own dog food, that is to say, actually using the items in my kit under realistic conditions to see how they meet expectations. Last weekend it was down in the low teens with medium winds and gusts up to 40MPH, and there was still two inches of crusty snow left over from the pre-Christmas storm. On top of that I was still recovering from a cold. Obviously, this was the perfect time to test out my EDK.

I won't bore you with all the successes and failures (of which there were many of the latter). Instead I'll limit to things which should be of interest to you.

1. Scarf. Maybe this is obvious to you but it wasn't to me. I considered it a luxury item not worth of space in my kit. I quickly discovered my error as I tried to move around in gusty, 11*F winds with my parka partially open to avoid overheating.

2. Stove & Wind Screen. Spurred by my earlier garage success with my home-made SuperCat alcohol stove, I gave it a go outdoors in the wind. Short story: Failure. Over 20 minutes of burn time and 2 oz of grain alcohol with an improvised HD foil wind screen still could not turn snow into 14 oz of boiling water. I believe this can be overcome with a better stove/wind screen design.

Further comment: white coleman stove fuel might wind up being the best choice for winter cooking. The only problem might be the need to pre-heat the generator in order to light the stove. This can be accomplished with a small stripe of fire gel paste or even a tinder quick.

3. Mylar Emergency Blanket. While I (and most others) have one or more of these in our kits, I thought these would really only be good for some protection from wind and rain. I was quite surprised to find they do indeed do a great job of conserving body heat and make it noticeably warmer and more comfortable when no other shelter or warmth is available. The problem is that it's hard to wrap the slippery, crinkly material around you and it provides zero insulation from the cold ground. Nevertheless, I spend a very comfortable six hours dozing on-and-off sitting upright in a patio chair with nothing more than normal street clothes. some minor supplemental clothing from by EDK, and wrapped like a 6-foot baked potato in a generic Mylar blanket. I am also impressed by how durable these thin blankets are. I've used, folded and reused the same one a half dozen times now, even tied up the corners to make a wind break, and it shows no signs of wearing out.

I would recommend something like the AMK Emergency Bivvy for better protection, and in fact I have one in my kit but didn't want to sacrifice it on this research project. Of course a 4-seasons tent or Gortex winter bivvy plus a down mummy bag would be a more comfortable solution, but if you can't afford the weight and/or space, a Mylar blanket is better than nothing.

What about a couple of road flares? For fire lighting, it beats fiddling with matches with freezing fingers. You can used them gloved, and while it won't substitute for proper fire prep it can give you a bigger margin for error if you get stuck overnight in between lodges.

I use a Lifeventure Silk Sleeping bag liner as a scarf in very cold conditions

http://www.lifeventure.co.uk/htm/sleepgear/silk-travel-sleepers.html

It makes for a very warm improvised scarf, which actually packs down more than a conventional scarf. It can also double up as a insulating chest protector is cold windy conditions.

A Mosquito head net can also be a useful item in Arctic Survival kits as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gM2KcirdNk8

I would also include a chapstick (not kept in the FAK, but in a easy to reach pocket)

"1. Scarf. Maybe this is obvious to you but it wasn't to me. I considered it a luxury item not worth of space in my kit. I quickly discovered my error as I tried to move around in gusty, 11*F winds with my parka partially open to avoid overheating."

Yes, I'm always amazed at how much warmer I feel when my neck/chin are protected from the cold.

I've taken to wearing a neck gaiter (merino wool) instead of a scarf - more effective IME and less bulky. Being a Buff fan I tried theirs first, but found it thin and itchy. I much prefer the Icebreaker version.

[No affiliation with either outfit ... ]

Clarification; I was talking about mixing the powder with water to make a liquid to pour on the snow versus putting the powder itself directly on the snow. I did not mean to mix colors. Seems like you answered my question anyway so no harm done. Anxiously awaiting the new thread. Improvised snow dye? or ... ???? i'd beat you to the punch but that would be mean and rotten of me.

My preference is to mix the powder with water, drink, and then color the snow.......

Updated List:

PLB and Sat phone w/ 3 batteries (split between riders)
Current paper trail map and compass.
GPS with trail map
MSR Dragon fly stove and small largest msr fuel bottle.
Minimal utensils (cooking pan/pot).
About three meals of mountain house-type pack food.
Windproof matches
Regular matches
flint, steel, dryer lint, magnesium chips, permalog type emergency tinder balls..
Pocket knife
Aircraft duct tape and foil tape
small foldable shovel
15' tow strap
signal laser (red)
-------------------------
Water bottle
Multi-tool
60ft nylon rope
energy bars, peanut butter, jerky and cheese
LED flashlight and headlamp.
toilet paper
tarp for wind break, roof shelter.
whistle
10 ft tubing for siphoning gas.
-------------------------
Hotronics M4 foot warmers (these are wicked awesome - forgot to mention these previously).
Chemical heat packs
pfak
folding saw
folding shovel
vaccuum flask for water.
Tang/Jello mix (warming drink or snow marking)
Safety pins
Sewing kit
Ziploc bags
Zip ties
TP pack
Water purification tablets
Fixed blade and sheath
FAK
Aluminum foil
Garbage bag
Sam splint.

Snow shoes?

A method for getting out if both machines fail from
bad gas etc?

Methinks that was hikermor's attempt at being a comedian. Get it, yellow snow and such. Ha ha ha.

Nice updated list CC. Does it all fit?

Just two things from me:

Firmly intending to stay nights in a lodge is almost a guarantee that you won't, because you're tempting the Fickle Finger of Fate (getting the middle one is the worst).

Dehydration contributes very much to hypothermia, so stay well hydrated.

Sue

I don't see them mentioned and I don't know if they are in your regular clothes but spare socks, mitts and if you wear felt lined boots at least one spare pair of liners are very good things to have.
If there might be a problem drying them overnight then more are better.
Hands and feet get wet from snow as well as sweat and having a spare pair of boot liners and gloves might save you some frostbite.
You will want a dry pair of felts each day for sure,
You can dry the spares overnight, same with the mitts and mitt liners.
Having 2 sets of spares cover you in case you get a soaker.

You mention a folding shovel. Would this be an aluminum avalanche type shovel of one of the folding military styles.

You will want one of the aluminum shovels to move snow.

Snow shoe aren't needed as we do not venture off trail. Sleds trails are well packed beds of snow and are not a problem to physically walk on.

If both machines fail and walking isn't a viable option I'll get on the sat phone and call for help. If the scenario is life threatening the PLB will be activated.

I've done many trips like this in the past and (so far) have never spent the night out on the trail. So I'm looking to pack useful items in case my luck runs out. ninety miles a day is a conservative distance and areas of shelters are about twenty to thirty miles apart. Good note on staying hydrated to help avoid hypothermia. Thanks.

I wear Baffin snowmobiling boots and have a custom molded insole to my foot with hotronic m4 heaters. The m4's can give well over twelve hours of continuous operation but I only use them on an as needed basis. I've found that wearing liners insulate my feet from the heaters and am more comfortable without liners. I do bring plenty of warm socks though - one fresh pair per day plus one.

The folding shovel in my kit now is a basic metal camping folding shovel. It isn't the best but it better then using my hands. I also consider it a little heavy. I am interested in replacing it would something more suited for snow. Recommendations welcomed!

I hope so! Most of the items aren't bulky so I don't foresee an issue with a pack capacity of 50L plus I'll a large waist pack which will hold key items like the PLB and PFAK. The one item I see an issue with is a tarp so sourcing a lightweight and thin material will be important.

Not going off-trail is part of your plan, emergency kits are for the unexpected and deviations to the plan. $**t happens.

A lot of example here.

http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_listing.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302725879&bmUID=1263063787436

I prefer one with a D handle and telescoping shaft. The D handle seems to work well with mitts on and the longer shaft makes it easier on my back.

I currently use the following model when backcountry skiing and winter camping.

http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442243587&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302725879&bmUID=1263063791392

It does not have the long neck protruding from the shovel blade which makes it more packable but still has a very solid connection between the shaft and blade.

I agree.

Which is why I'm putting together a list of item for my cold weather kit.

Exactly what I am looking for. Found a D grip model on mammothgear.com for a tad under $63 (USD) which seemed like a good price so I ordered it. Thank you.

I could use a recommendation for a fixed blade knife.

I think Mora knives represent the best value, especially the laminated steel blades. Incredibly cheap, as well. Ragweed Forge has an extensive line.

Prefer quality over cheap. Are Mora Knives good quality in addition to being cheap? Any model recommendations?

Yes, Mora is very good quality. They're robust no-nonsense tools and look like it.

Sorry, no spesific model recommendation. Take whatever feels good to you - I don't think you can go wrong with a Mora. Sure, you can get a prettier knife and most certainly you can get a bigger knife if you like that sort of thing. But for a no-nonsense general purpose knife with around 4" blade, Mora is one of the best buys around.

If you scroll down here, you'll find the model 511, which I use. It fits perfectly into my hand, but your mileage may wary:
http://www.ragweedforge.com/SwedishKnifeCatalog.html
I'm a lousy sharpener but have high standards and ambitions, and this knife is the only knife I've ever manage to get anywhere near as sharp as I want to. Note that carbon steel blades do require some minimum maintenance to prevent rust. A stainless steel blade may be a better choice if you're looking for a stash-and-forget type of knife for your kit.

You will find almost as many recommendations for knives as the models available. Here are some of my recommendations. The Ontario Rat 7 in D2 steel plain edge (not serrated) is my current kit knife. Not too big, not too small, and the sheath has a pouch for a small survival kit (or fire making kit might be better in your scenario). Other knives I would recommend include the KA-Bar Becker knives, either the 7 or 9 (extra pouch on sheath as well). The Cold Steel Recon Scout, Trailmaster, or SRK also come to mind. I must admit mine are the old Carbon V blades and I cannot speak for the current production models but my Cold Steel Bushman is made of the same SK5 steel as the recon scout and trailmaster and it has taken a beating and is still going strong; also the SRK is made of the same AUS 8A steel that made their original tanto so tough.

Others to consider (I say consider only because I have no personal experience with them) that look promising: ontario Ranger series RD 6, 7 or 9 (available with orange handles and pouch on the sheath); the ontario ranger afghan got a good review in tactical knives as well; Gerber big rock camp knife; and for a good stainless option, the SOG Seal 2000 can be had with a nylon sheath with pouch (if you end up needing a shorter blade there is the seal pup).

As you might be able to tell I prefer a larger blade (I also tend to stick to production blades as custom and semi-custom are a little too pricey for me). In your scenario I would probably consider a shorter blade because it would ride more comfortably on the snowmobile (although that certainly wouldn't prevent me from trying to carry the rat 7). My thought being that with the knife on your person (instead of in your pack) and a fire making kit in the sheath pocket that even if you are separated from everything else you can still make an improvised shelter and a fire. You should consider whether a stainless blade is necessary or not. I wouldn't hesitate to use a carbon blade and bring along a tuff cloth to help protect it from the elements. You may want to be able to handle the knives before you buy. In the end it will be what you are most comfortable with. Nothing wrong with a buck 119 Special you can still buy at Wal-Mart. Standard disclaimer, no affiliations with any companies listed here, no kickbacks, etc. Also you might consider any safety issues on carrying the knife on your person while riding the snowmobile. Would like to know which blade you end up with and how you plan to carry it.

Thanks Mark.

I visited various knife forums and some knife reviews on youtube. From what I gathered stainless steel gives a more worry free blade but doesn't hold a good edge. I would imagine I want a knife that holds an edge so I added carbon steel to my criteria. With that choice made having a sheath that does not retain water is a must. One knife which I come across one just about every site I visted was the Recon Scout.

So I decided on the Cold Steel Recon Scout SK-5 Carbon Steel (39LRST). I found a source that has a few of these NIB and placed my order yesterday. As for where to stow it - I don't think I am comfortable carrying an instrument like that on my person and certainly not in my waist pack (at least while sledding). Falling off the machine or being moderately ejected to me screams safety issue. So for that reason I would plan to stow it in safe fashion away from my body most likely on the machine.

In that case CC, I would also suggest a large folder on your person. Or the multi tool. Or both. Did I mention I am a knife knutt . Seriously though, be sure you have one on your person. You could get separated from your pack or the snowmobile or both.

P.S. The Recon Scout is a good choice IMO. Let us know how it works out.

Thanks KK.

What recommendations do you have for a large folder? My current folder now is a Kershaw ATS 34 Model 1431. I have a leatherman mutli tool on my list which I can carry on my person. How long of blade does a folder have to have to be considered a larger folder?

Again many options and many opinions. Actually I like the looks of the Doug Ritter RSK Mk 1 (standard disclaimer here and for rest of post, no affiliations). Perfect blade shape for survival use, excellent review in tactical knives http://www.dougritter.com/tkmay2005.htm , and the CPM S30V is super tough. Plus there is a model with an orange handle available now. My current large folders include a Cold Steel large voyager, clip point, plain edge and a Columbia River large point guard, drop point, plain edge with zytel handles and LAWKS. There are many other options available from many different makers at many different price points. Stick to:

- A reputable maker
- Locking blade 3" to 4" min blade length - be careful of local laws here
- Clip, drop or spear point
- Preferrably no metal handles for cold weather (this cannot be avoided in some cases, as with the multi-tool)
- Plain (not serrated) blade
- No cheapies (they are under $10 for a reason)

That said your kershaw should work just fine for now. Hope this helps.

P.S. Just for the record I prefer a fixed blade. I had a hard time joining the "tactical knife" revolution that Benchmade and ernest emerson fueled in the 90s. I still have a hard time trusting folders for hard use because there are moving parts that can fail. But if the chips are down it beats rocks or fingernails. For that reason I EDC a victorinox boyscout huntsman. FWIW and YMMV.

I can understand the concern about a fixed blade. Rather frightening item to have on your belt in a snowmobile crash. Still, it's worth having some essentials in your pockets or attached to your person; that's all you can really be sure of. I guess that would be even more true if you were crossing frozen water on your tour.

A big Leatherman like the Core would give you strong pliers along with a couple of decent-sized blades and a passable saw. Also, these are unlikely to open up in a spill (yikes!). I like mine, despite its honking size; it's a real tool for real work.

Or, consider the big Victorinoxes with the locking main blade and big saw. (These are ultimately a first-rate saw with other useful attachments thrown in.) A light and effective tool in the field IMO.

My $0.02.

Updated List: I’ve added some brand and model information to some of the items.

PLB and Sat phone w/ 3 batteries (split between riders) (ACR Aquafix, Iridium 9555; borrowing plb from brother in-law otherwise I’d purchase the SARlink)
current paper trail map and compass. (will obtain from outfitter/local club)
GPS with trail map (Garmin 400t with trail maps of area)
MSR Dragon fly stove and two 20 oz bottles of white fuel.
stormproof matches (REI)
strike anywhere matches stored in a water proof case.
flint, steel, dryer lint, magnesium chips, permalog type emergency tinder balls.
pocket knife (Kershaw ATS 34 model 1341
aircraft duct tape and foil tape
stow able shovel (Avitech t3)
15' tow strap
signal laser (red) (AixiZ Laser – 650nm 200mw w/ a 3x focusable spot lens, and cross and line lens 90 degree fan spread – very easy to hit a target!)
-------------------------
multi-tool (Leatherman Supertool 200)
60ft nylon rope
energy bars, peanut butter, jerky and cheese
LED flashlight and headlamp (Maglite 3xAA)
toilet paper
tarp for wind break, roof shelter.
whistle
10 ft tubing for siphoning gas.
-------------------------
Hotronics M4 foot warmers (these are wicked awesome - forgot to mention these previously).
Chemical heat packs (hand and feet)
PFAK
folding saw
Tang/Jello mix (warming drink or snow marking)
safety pins
sewing kit
ziploc bags
zip ties
TP pack
water purification tablets
ixed blade and sheath (Cold Steel Recon Scout)
FAK
aluminum foil
garbage bag
Sam splint.
-------------------------
Spare pair of gloves (medium weight to reduce space in pack - can be used on sled in a pinch.)
Sled handlebar gauntlets (hand protection from wind)

Interested in a recommendation for a folding or wire saw. I was reading online a wire saw can be used to reach limbs in hard to reach places like above ground by adding some rope and thrown over the limb. Which type of saw is more practical?

Sorry CC. Check out what Doug Ritter says about saws here:

http://www.equipped.org/devices24.htm#ToothedSharps

Wire saws are useful if space is a consideration like in a pocket sized survival kit. Like Doug says, get a good one from a reputable source (read the article carefully). For your pack and for the use you mention use the linked type Doug mentions like the Pocket Chainsaw from Supreme Products Or the Saber Cut from Ultimate Survival. Again be sure you are getting one of the good ones as there are cheap copies of these out now that use similar woords in their names and descriptions. A folding saw like the Buck brand folding saw (brightly colored handles available) or Gerber (no affiliations, just good tools) are also good alternatives. There are also a number of Bow saws that break down for easy carry (one is called the saw-vivor I think). I am not familiar with these and am not sure which is better. Maybe someone else can chime in on this. just looked back at Doug's article and the sawvivor is what he recommends. Again read Doug's article carefully. Good Luck. nice updated list by the way.

I received my Recon Scout on Tuesday. I'm no knife expert but wow it is a beefy chunk of metal. Very nice lines and a good well balanced feel. The sheath is very cool; really like the way the blade 'clicks" in.

I picked up 2" webbing and carabiners from REI. Much lighter then the standard yellow "vehicle tow strap" stuff and the carabiners make attachment simple and safe. For snow shovel I went with the Avitech T3. An hatchet/axe is just plain dangerous IMHO.

Cold Steel is most well known for the excellent balance of their blades. Their SRK is highly spoken of in knife circles but for a larger blade it is hard to find any as well balanced as the Recon Scout or the Trailmaster. FWIW and YMMV.

I lived in Northern Minnesota for 10 years, and during that time, I went out on my snowmobile often, in all weather, alone or in small groups of 2 to 4. My weekend trips included Upper Michigan, Northern Wisconsin, and of course Northern Minnesota forests. Each trip averaged over 100 miles. As with rental sleds, my snowmobile equipment compartment was about the size of a shoebox, and unless you have the optional luggage rack, or the optional trailer hitch, most of what you carry has to go in there, or in your pockets. When renting, it is essential to check and see that the OEM toolkit is in the compartment, and that all of the tools are in there. Snowmobile trailer tip over on forest trails at normal touring speeds.

This might constitute heresy, but rather than list the equipment in my PSK, I'll tell you what I actually used in 10 years and 5000 miles of backwoods travel.

Spare headlight bulb (hit a big bump, and they can burn out)
OEM sparkplug wrench
spare sparkplugs (sparkplugs foul often)
spare drive belt
magnetic compass and topo and trail maps
Leatherman Supertool (to remove barbed wire that had wrapped itself around my drive axle)and a million other things
Bic lighter (kept in my inner pocket)
Mini Maglite (also kept warm on my inner belt)
Helmet
Thin nylon balaclava (I got frostbit on my lower chin/neck crossing a frozen lake at -25. I never felt a thing. Balaclava complely eliminates this, and the thin nylon doesn't make your helmet too tight).
Thin cotton gloves (for detail work that you can't wear your snomobile gloves for)
A retractable saw (I used to carry a small hatchet, but they are unsafe on bitter cold days when your hands are cold and ice forms on the handle during use).
Clif bars or equivalent high energy food
instant coffee and tea bags
A metal canteen cup to melt snow for beverages.
Bandana
Whistle
Extra snowmobile key in an inner pocket

All of this will fit in your pockets or in the small compartment under the seat. Have a safe trip.

I would toss out the regular matches and substitute a simple, and cheap mini-Bic. More lights and more power, for dealing with wet fuels, than a similar weight in matches.

I would also add a bus ticket to Florida. Where you can toss the kit into the weeds. Or trade it to a north bound citizen for sunscreen.

I regularly use Bics and other butane lighters these days, but in really cold weather, I still carry regular matches. I know matches will work in extremely cold temperatures - not so sure about Bics. The extra ounce or two is well worth carrying.

Butane doesn't vaporize at low temperatures. But don't let that stop you. Lots of people in extreme low temperatures still use them. Keep the lighter in a pocket, or stuff them into an armpit for a minute if they are coming out of a kit and cold, and they will be plenty warm enough to work well.

You could trust me on this but even better is to go out in cold weather, or the freezer a local restaurant, and give it a try. All the online advice in the world doesn't beat some hands-on experience. Give it a go. Prove it to yourself.

Exactly my point. Matches work at very low temperatures (-40 in my experience and at fairly high (14,000) altitudes), quite reliably. They don't need any special placement or care.

Thinking back, they can present problems. We were forced into what was likely to be a rather frosty bivouac. None of my companions had any fire making materials. All went well, until my matchsafe spilled down the cliff, leaving me holding a single match which of course then became the only means of lighting the fire. Fortunately I pulled it off and we had a decent warming fire during a fairly long night.

I am not one for duplicating items, but I always have about three means of striking a light. Fire is simply too fundamental and useful out in the woods.

After all, if you have a fire, all you need is a pot of water and a tea bag, and you are set.

Most of my trips during the year are in these same area except Minnesota.



Any extra gear I carry goes into a backpack. Its never really an issue for me as the weight of the pack rests on the seat while seated and the straps are basically holding the pack upright as opposed to normally having a load on them.



This is one of the first things I do. I also insist on actually seeing the toolkit, extra belt and spark plug for each machine. Some outfitters don't fully replace the items once used and I have had situations where they will chime out "there enough between the two machines." That doesn't fly with me - each machine in a group need to be self sufficient for servicing.



No replacement for experience- thank you.



I think this is more of an issue on single light sleds. The newer sleds will have two bulbs for low and two for high. So I don't think this is critical but definitely worth taking a bulb along - I would probably say a low beam as a high beam can be troublesome in snowy conditions.



These are a part of the sled kit. I always check for kit completeness.


All of these items are currently on my list. Aside from being illegal in WI and MI riding without a helmet I believe isn't a good choice.


I cannot imagine riding without a one. I like the versions which also have a bib which lays over your pecks and shoulder blades to create a "seal" between the jacket neck and helmet.


An absolute must. Gassing up without some sort of thin liner glove can be hazardous to you hand. Some of the gas pump handles in older town are metal. Ever grab a one of these metal handles at -15 or colder without skin protection? I did - once and I'll never do it again.


I picked up a few Cliff bars for a recent trip in WI. I think out of all the health/breakfest bars I have had these are the best so far.

My winter kit: Strike anywhere matches, flint steel, wind proof lighter. I guess one could get a spark form the sleds plug wire (remove it from the plug and slowly backing it away while keeping a fuel dampened rag touching the plug tip) if in a jam. I'd had to be in a real pickle to pull that off though.

Most of my trips during the year are in these same area except Minnesota.




All I can say here is that you're missing some excellent riding. You won't do better than the North Shore Trail along Lake Superior. You can stay on it, or branch out into true wilderness areas. Plenty of little snowmobile-friendly towns along the shore, but less so in the interior.

Welcome Byrd_Huntr. A nice list from a voice of experience. The other stuff we have suggested is for the "what-if" factor, otherwise known as Murphy's Law. Many, many people get by with carrying less gear than they should. When Murphy catches up and something goes horribly wrong, well, those are the stories you see in the nightly news. "Local hunter dies of exposure" or "Hikers lost in desert succumb to the elements" are the typical headlines. They could be easily averted by carrying just some very basic gear. FWIW and YMMV.

Sounds like I will have to check this out... Thanks for the tip!



Would you take other gear with you if branching out into wilderness areas? For me skirting off a trail into a soft ditch can turn into quite some work without at least a tow strap.

I didn't mean to suggest going off trail. I meant that there are mapped wilderness trails that branch off of the Superior trail.

Would it be correct assume the wilderness trails are marked but not groomed?

craig--everyplace in Minnesota you could possibly take a snowmobile you will find the track of someone who has been there already.

Wilderness Areas are closed to motorized and mechanized
vehicals.

Carhartt Men's Fleece 2-In-1 Headwear
http://www.carhartt.com/webapp/wcs/store...0&langId=-1

Is an awesome piece of cold weather gear I recently got.

Retractable saw someone suggested too. Gerber makes a decent money for <15$.

I think too much gear aimed to 'stay in place' is a bad thing myself. Sure, matches, lighter, etc good but some kits I see here and other places are enough "stay in place gear" to live out in the middle of winter. To me, the goal is to get rescued or make your own way back to civilization. Hand warmers or foot warmers, a good hat, dry gloves, wool socks are all very important in cold weather. Also a map of the area you are going to a compass, PLB, and a GPS if you want. These are IMHO more important than say fishing line, or cotton swabs to light a fire.

Looks very warm. It doesn't look like it will fit underneath of a helmet. Will it?



I think I am going with a hand chain saw. Between that and the recon scout I think I could process wood fairly well.



Good observation but perhaps staying in place is a good thing if injured or if a PLB was activated.

Good observation but perhaps staying in place is a good thing if injured or if a PLB was activated.
[/quote]

Good call CC. In all but the most extreme scenarios you are better off to stay put and wait for SAR.

I'm definitely with you on this. I see those stories too, and one of them haunts me when I pass this place. In Minnesota there is an area called Weaver Bottoms on the Mississippi River. I travel there with my wife to observe migrating waterfowl a few times a year. In Nov 1940, weather forcasting was not yet developed to the standards of today. Unseasonably warm weather suddenly gave way to freezing rain and quickly switched to a severe blizzard with very heavy snow, killing 49 Minnesotans. Many of the victims were duck hunting in Weaver Bottoms in flannel shirts or light gear. Some were found ice-covered and frozen to death, still standing in the marsh. Standing there today, you can see how it could happen. Weaver Bottoms is not that big; a mile or two of flat marshland between two 300' high limestone bluff riverbanks. People then and now look to these highbanks for orientation. In a blizzard the hunters could not see the highbanks and did not know which way was West, so they were unable to walk to safety in time. A one dollar compass would have saved them all.

So I picked up a flashlight for my kit. I choose a Gerber Cornea HI Flashlight (22-80122). It is a three watt LED with a maximum output of 105 lumens along with 65 and 30 lumens on medium and low settings. It has a strobe mode as well. Focusable bean from flood to spot with even coverage. Runs on three CR123 lithium batteries making it a good power source for cold weather.