REI Storm-Proof Matches in a matchsafe...

I'm about to buy the REI Storm-Proof Matches to keep in match safes. My question is, Does each match have to be wrapped? I have read some stories about matches igniting within matchsafes that get jostled around.

I've heard of that happening too. One suggestion to me was to alternate which way the matchheads were facing. Meaning some were pointed up and some were pointed down, to reduce the chances of the heads rubbing together.

strick anywhere matches may ignite when stuffed in too tight, but REI Storm proof require a sticker. Wrap up the striker Or keep it in the plastic sleeve it comes in and you should be O.K. Unless you have an extra long match safe you will have to cut down the REI Matches to fit.

I bought both regular-sized and long brass match cases from K&M (see http://www.kmmatchcase.com/index.html) in order to test them both. If the short ones end up being a pain, then I'll use them for something else.

Something I picked up from these forums was to use nail clippers to trim down the excess on the REI matches so they fit in the case.

i just use the wire cutter om my leatherman...

I use the green plastic cases. They fit exactly one box of Coghlan's storm matches (put in up and down), and are snug with both strickers (facing the plastic) on opposite sides of the case.

Does anyone know if there is a difference between the Coghlan's and the REI?

Yes, huge difference, literally. The REI have about double the combustible material compared to all others (see image below). The exposed wood ends do need to be trimmed down by about 1/8-3/16 inch to fit a conventional match safe. The REI are vastly superior to all others I have tested.

(Below: BCB = NATO Lifeboat, Safesport = most others)

"... The REI are vastly superior to all others I have tested..."

yup...

I switched to REI's due to this board and the inability to light the BCB types worth a flip. BCB's now go inside questionable tinder bundles to help the butane lighter along. What was I doing wrong????

Not sure. How do you strike the match? I have some Pro-Force NATO matches which are very similar to the BCB matches if not just renamed/rebranded. My technique is to drive the match head into and across a friction surface, in my case a piece of wet/dry fine sandpaper. This is the opposite of using paper matches where I press the head onto the friction surface and drag. I'm not even sure if my technique is the overall best way of doing it but I haven't had a missed ignition yet with the NATO matches.

My strike anywhere matches (Canadian Redbird) are another story. Because I believed that a coating of wax waterproofed the matches, they no long strike "anywhere" but a hard friction surface and sometimes I have to rub the wax off first to get a light! When I made them up, I should have put a thinner coat of wax on them.

The Coughlans' matches are anaemic by any measure with it's small head and very thin sticks and they will work but they are just not as good as other matches, even kitchen matches. BTW, I was taught that a "real woodsman" can split a paper match and get a fire lit with just a portion! Yes, it is possible (I've done it) but I would rather work with as big a match as I can.

The guy at Pro Force used to be the BCB importer and has replicated and/or rebranded much of the product line.



While the technique to push instead of pull is correct for the NATO matches, I am curious as to how the sandpaper works? These matches are safety matches and normally do NOT ignite from friction. They are designed to ignite only from the chemical reaction between the material in the match head and the red phosphorus in the special striking strip.

Here's some information on safety matches and how they work: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Match

I am beginning to think the NATO/BCB's were moisture contaminated. When struck they mostly just came apart. However, my one handed SparkLight was able to light one off. Good thing to know if I am short on good tinder. Putting a few of the sub-par matches in with the "OK" tinder bundle helped "get things going".
O yeah, they were OLD issue items from long ago that wound up making it home and were lost/found cleaning the garage.

It´s good to hear that Pro Force matches belong to the high-end segment. I have got them too. I submerged a burning Pro Force match in the water and once pulled back on air it started burning again. So it worked as advetised.

Desperado: I have read that someone stored matches in that cylindric effervescent vitamin tablets case because the cap contains some stuff that sucks the moisture and keeps the items inside dry.

Do those REI matches degrade over time? I was thinking of buying alot, but if I don't use them for a few years only to find they "got old"...

Haven't had them that long. I know BCB/NATO were from 1994 at least.

I have some BCB from 1994 as well, and I just lit three of them. They all took a few strikes to ignite, although every strike produced a flash. They took a little while to actually burst into flame once lit, and when submerged half-way through their burn, the flame went out but they kept burning at the same pace but only with a small vigorous blue ring at the chemical. They all burned down to the end or very near the end of the chemical, but they all went completely out when there was no chemical, even the one I didn't dunk in water.

I just lit two more:
1. dunked and then lit, the reduced blue burn, but eventually came to flame, back to reduced blue burn when wet to end of chemical.
2. lgnition on first strike (I pushed harder that time), flame all through to end of chemical, not dunked.

So, they still work, but if they get wet before striking, dry them off, and don't let them get wet while burning, as it might be harder to light tinder with only a small blue burning ring. The wood is only a handle. I don't recall if the wood burned when I purchased them in 1994. I also can't recall from back then if the flame was noticably reduced after being dunked, but I don't recall that they weren't either, and because I think I would have remembered that, they probably didn't. I do recall being very impressed with them when I first got them, now not so much. They are probably losing efficacy.

"..."real woodsman" can split a paper match and get a fire lit with just a portion! Yes, it is possible..."

check this out!

"...prisoners during the war, and many men were able to split a match into six portions, and strike each one of them with certainty..."

All matches break down over time, that is half of why I shellac my strike anywheres. These are already coated, but if you want to be really sure, find a very long match case, and put an O2 and dessicant package in with them (easier than a sliver of dry ice), and grease the cap with something like a lithium grease. Then vacuum seal the whole thing.

Problem is that the striker itself has a half life, and as I recall that is based on just the decay of the compounds. It would break down in deep space, stored in the thin stuff.

I just leave the REI matches in their original packaging, in a ziploc snack bag. Easier for me to identify things in their original package if it is servicable.

I do the same with my GSI teakettle, in the cardboard box, in my pack, I always figured I could use the cardboard in a pinch and it obviously fits well inside it's original box.

Too low tech?

REI matches are excellent, but I can't get them here. i have to either wait till I make a trip outside or get a friend to pick some up for me. They will not mail or ship them to Alaska.

But I have found these and they are work great.

http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Product___84852

- just keep the striker pad dry.

i have been carrying strike anywhere matches around for years and never had one strike in a case..the photos below show a bottle i came across that holds REI flamers just right..

this is a urine sample bottle with a very good leak proof lid--
i got several of these that had been opened but not used and as the seal was busted they could not be re-shelved and re-used.

not only to the REI matches fit but i could get a pack of the new ration heating gel in--

along with the striker and a candle stub..this is carryed as my "last ditch" fire making kit on canoe trips.

They're close, but not as large as the REI's. The flammable part is a little larger than "lifeboat matches", but not the size of the REI matches. We're glad we found them. But they're not "strike anywhere" so you gotta keep the striker pad dry to use.
On a scale of 1 to 10 I would give:
REI - 10
Esbit - 8
"Lifeboat" - 7

- but this is just my judgement, your personal milage may vary.

Danny
If you shoot me an email in March, I'll bring up a few packs and mail them from either Anchorage or Bethel.

I added REI's matches to all my kits, then took them out after deciding they were obsolete. Now they are all back in the kits after realizing that my wife doesn't know how to use flint and steel, etc. Here's what my K&M match case is stuffed with. The fint striker is from TAD gear. I missed out on the aluminum Sparklites.

On kind of a side note ...

For those who own the REI matches but have never lit them, I'd suggest you test one or two out. They don't burn like any other match I've worked with.


Quite frankly I was surprised when I lit my first one. If you find yourself in a tough situation that last thing you need is a surprize.

Ken

As posted before, REI matches are not strike anywhere, so you have little to worry about regarding them rubbing together and igniting.

You drug store will be happy to give you a few pill bottles that will easily hold a box of The REI matches, a couple of spare striker stripsin their wrapper, a few of Four Seasons Survival "Tinder-Quik" tinder pieces. A self stick striker (posted elsewhere on the ETS forum) can be cut to fit the top of the pill bottle. I wrap the top of mine with vinyl electrical tape to help waterproof the top and bottle.

CDVFX7, where did you get that matchcase? I like that one! I'd be interested in purchasing one.

K&M Match Cases: http://www.kmmatchcase.com/

Thank you JC, I did a little hunitng, found it, and have one enroute now

+10 on the K&Ms...I'm happy with mine! Not light, but solid and dependable.