Since this is a pretty handy crew, I'm soliciting suggestions for tightening the driver-side mirror on my venerable Escort.

It's a simple ball-and-socket, with no provision for tightening it. It's old enough that on very hot days, it loosens up enough that air flow at freeway speeds is pushing the mirror out of position.

Any suggestions on how to tighten it up without permanently fixing it in place? Is there anything like Loc-Tite that would just increase the friction?

Stainless steel ball in a black plastic socket.

Can you pick up another socket (or the entire assembly) at a salvage and simply replace the existing one?

Loc-tite was my first thought, but I don't think Loc-tite and plastic are compatible. Hopefully someone who knows will tell me I'm wrong.

I had to replace both power mirrors on my truck (one of the mirrors had cracked) and I was quite surprised at how lost cost an off-brand replacement was. They've worked fine for over two years. Still, if you can find something at a salvage yard - go for it.

is there room for a stainless hose clamp to tighten on the ball, and not pull the ball out...possibly a piece of plastic hose, then a screw clamp... regards

Not sure what your mirror set-up looks like, so possible I'm way off-base.

Is it possible that you might have overlooked an out-of-view set-screw or integrated tightening-nut (speaking from personal experience).

Or maybe a screw to tighten hidden within the housing (requiring removal of mirror assembly from door to access)?

Off-the-wall suggestions (since you want a repair that won't permanently fix mirror position); these would preserve ability to adjust mirror position:

Is there some sort of retaining ring that can be removed, allowing you to pull the ball from the socket? If so, how about cutting a tiny square (1/4-in, 3/8-in?) from sheet of medium or fine grit sandpaper, fitting into socket, grit-side towards ball (not so coarse that ball won't fit back into socket, but coarse enough to provide decent friction against ball surface).

Or -- assuming ball can be removed from socket -- insert a small square of very thin, compressible foam into the socket, then reinstall the ball.

shim it, thats what i would do, unless a replacement was easy to perform and cost under $10.

Get some small piece silicone putty (silly putty) and jam it in there (there being around the mirror face, around the edges).

Or wrap something stiff and water proof like playing cards in electrical tape and jam it in a corner.

Or if you've got a thin silicone rubber band, stretch it around the mirror or jam thin sheet underneath (natural rubber will melt).

What might also work is flexible caulking (bathroom silicone),
but application would be trickier and it might stick too much.

You know that there is an approved BOB repair product designed to repair loose rear view mirrors.

http://www.octanecreative.com/ducttape/bodyshop/

It is a little over half way down the page.

Locktite is not recommended for use on plastics, at the bottom of the page on the right.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/25/t_lkr_green/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Green-290.htm

The green locktite is designed to capillary into an already assembled joint.

If you don't need to move it again, drill a small hole all the way through the joint and install a bolt in it. Don't tighten the bolt to much so as not to crack the plastic. Have seen that type of joint loosen up before and i have not seen a good repair to fix it. Good luck and let us know what you do.

Try wrapping some #0-coarse steelwool around the shaft,closest you can to the socket,Then use a straight screwdriver or butterknife,To push the steelwool into the socket.That should tighten it up,Quite well!Keep the screwdriver/butterknife handy,to periodically shove it back in,as it will back out over time.This worked on an old Mazda,of which had the poopy-design,You describe above. Good Luck,& Get to a Pick-a-Part asap!

Superglue it if you only keep it in one position. Drip around the joint, work the joint to let it seep into the gap and set position before it dries.

Another idea: Drill a hole in the plastic base that terminates at the stainless steel ball. Then insert a set screw through the hole.