OK, I've said it before, I don't fish. But I just found out about braided fishline, and I've put a bobbin of 20 test Spiderwire in my tin. It will work fine in my larger needle, and my awl needle, so I'm liking it.

Question is, is there anythign special I need to know about it? It cut ok, but does it need to be fused? I can I treat it like a I would any braided thread of this weight? Or do I need special knots like I do for monofiliment? Weaknesses I should know about? I am I off my nut thinking this stuff can be used like the thread used for leather making?

I would be interested in any info also...
But I did not get the 20lb stuff, I bought whatever was the strongest they had at the time... I think 80lb or greater...

You might consider sheathing ends you are going to knot. I believe it suffers from the same problems as other synthetics do, where knots create a weak point that needs to be reinforced. There's some internet info related. Search on kite string stuff.

I'm still a big proponent of Dacron fishing line. I keep yards and yards of 120 lb test wrapped on tongue depressors between a spooling of duct tape on one end and electrical tape on the other. I have one of these in each of my bags. 100 feet doesn't take up much space.

Definitely get the braided. It can also be used as thread for sewing cloth, leather (the heavy duty stuff is better) and skin and even as cordage or even floss. Monofilament is easier to break and is 3-5 times thicker for the same tensile strength. I'd say for a PSK, this stuff is definitely better than monofillament or fused single strand simply for multiple use + strength / size.

Each hauser wraps a bundle of monofiliments in an abrasion resistant thermally sealed cord and then those are braided. Unlike a sheathed cord of nylon or polyester, the sheath won't "retract" from the end of the monofilament bundle when cut cleanly. So the only problem is worrying about the braid coming undone, which is easily amended with a knot or heated knife. A triple overhand knot should suffice. I don't recall ever using a match or burning twig to seal the end, so I'm not sure if that's a good thing to try or not.... given how thin it is, it might be better just to knot it.

Hey IR,
The only warning I'd give you is, don't make the mistake of thinking "20 lb test, no big deal, I'll snap it with my hand", it'll cut you to the bone (don't ask how I know, I just know <img src="/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />).
The stuff is great for stitching, just don't pull the stitches too tight, you'll cut whatever it is you're stitching. Knots work fine for securing the ends from ravelling.
Overall, spiderwire is VERY well worth the space/weight in a kit, I'd put it right up there with 550 cord, but again, you have to watch the cutting ability. On the other hand, it's a great candidate for garrotte cable <img src="/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Troy

So unraveling is a significant concern with this stuff?

And to those who warned about it's strength, I know- this stuff is specta, about as strong as steel of the same size.

No, I don't think that unraveling is a great concern. I haven't used the stealth stuff (Teflon coated), so that might be different, but unless you get a bad spool or something, this is good stuff. And yeah, you HAVE to be careful with it. Without a knife, you would need a sharp rock or abrasive material to abraid it to the point of breaking. Pulling it between your hands... yikes. Even using your teeth would be better! <img src="/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />