Hi all!<br>I'm searching for a pocket sharpening, to use for my knives. I found one that gives me a V shape,but the buyers said me that I may remove one stone to use for chisel grind. Do you know about that type of sharpener?<br><br>For Presumed Lost (I tried to write you a PM, but unsuccessful..): how do you shape your Sampson's Kiss? mine is partially serrated, so how may I sharp the serration of the crkt?<br><br>thanks all,<br>mac

Mac:<br>the "v-shape" sharpener uses two opposed tungsten carbide inserts held in the "v" position. As you pull your blade through the carbides they strip fine shreds from your edge. This can be detrimental in the long term, and you cannot alter the angle of the edge produced. This is the system Wiltshire uses in their kitchen "Stay-sharp" knives.<br><br>Regarding sharpening serrations, I have found a narrow diamond hone slides up and down the inside of each serration (single side only) and across the blade rather than along it, so keeping a chisel edge inside each serration and doesn't grind down the teeth.<br><br>Hope this helps!<br>

A quick search will reveal many knife sites with usefull sharpening links. There are as many opinions regarding edge profiles and sharpening systems as there are about knives themselves ! A common mistake is to constantly sharpen via metal removal. Once an edge is set up, a quality ceramic or steel hone is usually enough to revive an edge ( unless badly abused.) People learning to sharpen would be well served purchasing some inexpensive blades for practice ( swedish Moras, french Opinels etc.) Dull knives are like inaccurate compasses- DANGEROUS!

I"ve recieved a number of private messages on this forum before- hmm.... maybe I know what the problem is... I'll see what I can do.<br><br>Anyway, I see that you've gotten some advice from others, and it's probably better than mine. As I've said elsewhere, I have some serrated knives for specialized work, because they are generally faster on rope in particular- hence usually better for climbing, sailing and diving... but for all of that I don't much like them, and sharpening is the main reason. It seems to me that being able to sharpen a knife with the most commonly available tools for the purpose (flat stones) is a virtue, and having to have very specialized tools to maintain something as basic and simple as a knife is not. But that's just me- others swear by them.<br><br>Neither my Sampson's KISS nor my Stiff KISS have serrations. You don't want to be using any of the V-sharpeners for these chisel-ground knives- they're meant to be sharpened on one side only, with at most a very light honing on the "flat" side. Putting a bevel on the "flat" side of a KISS would be a bad thing, since the blade rests flat against the handle when folded.<br><br>That having been said, the best tool I have for the purpose is a thin triangular diamond "stone". It does OK, but I'm not thrilled with it- every knife maker does serrations differently, and each seems to require a slightly different technique. I find sharpening serrations tedious and time consuming, and I avoid it as much as possible- which makes me somewhat reluctant to use those knives, or those parts of the edges of partially-serrated knives.<br><br>Besides, they make the peanut butter look funny. ;-)<br>

Mac<br><br>As Bones indicated, a thin cylindrical diamond sharpener is effective in sharpening the serrations. EZE-Lap makes at least 2 kinds. We have used the model S EZE-Lap sharpener with good results in sharpening the serrations. It has a thin D-shaped blade which can sharpen other edges as well. We have used a variety of their sharpening products to our satisfaction. You can reach their online catalog via the ETS Manufacturers links. They're popular in the USA. I don't know about other sharpeners.<br><br>Our only serrated blades are on our Leatherman tool. Our new blades have all required sharpening before use. I agree with all the criticisms of serrated blades for general purpose knives. But come to think of it, we have serrations on my favorite steak & grapefruit knives. :-) So I guess I don't hate them all.<br><br>Good luck,<br><br>John

Hi PL,<br>thanks for the help.<br>I never had in mind to sharp both edges of my Kiss! :)<br>I give up on pocket foolproof sharpeners, after your posts I'm thinking about freehand sharpeners.<br>Putting aside serrated blades, what do you use for your crkt knives?<br>I think a fine grain diamond stone would be ideal, or not?<br>Here in Italy there is not peanut butter, so serration may be useless! :)<br>but I have an uncle in USA that sent me a can of PB: this is the reason I have a serrated kiss! :)<br><br>Mac

I start reading the sharpening faq linked from doug's site.<br>Chris, you opened my mind talking me about ceramic sharpeners! :O<br>I didn't know that a ceramic one may be enough to revive an edge.<br><br>I answer here to John and bones too: doing so I'll spare two post for your sake! ;)<br>Thanks to all of you for your suggestions, after your posts I think I may purchase a<br>ceramic sharpener for edge revival (for all of my knives, from SAK to Buck)<br>and a diamond rod for serrations (maybe a narrow one: my Kiss has two serration: a larger one and a narrower one..). The EZE products seems to be very interesting, I hope to find them in Italy, or to find an equivalent product.<br><br>thanks to all,<br>Mac

Actually, I usually give the "flat" edge of a chisel-ground knife just a few strokes with a very fine stone. My impression is that if you don't, the sharpness is limited by the finish on that side- which might be fine for a knife with a mirror-finish, but the CRKT knives are bead-blasted, and I think lightly honing the "off" edge helps.<br><br>I rarely sharpen in the field, but I carry a folding two-sided flat diamond hone, with plastic handle. It works very quickly, and I don't think I've ever used the coarse side. I'd like to find one smaller.<br><br>For a new knife I use a Lansky sharpening kit at home to establish the first edge. The kit has an angle guide that clamps to the blade, and five stones from coarse to fine. It's been years since I have read much on knives, so there may be easier ways now.<br><br>I congratulate you on your courage in trying peanut butter- most Europeans do not see the attraction, and if you haven't grown up with it, I understand- it certainly does not look appealing. For what it's worth, though, peanut butter is MUCH easier than the Australian's Vegemite. I eventually came to enjoy Vegemite- in small doses- but it wasn't easy.

Presumed, check out www.ragweedforge.com He has small diamond plates that easily fit in my wallet or under paracord on a sheath. Barry @ Blueline may also have something. The honing papers from Lee Valley tools proved usefull also for inclusion in my PSK with the cheat sheet, rite in the rain and cardboard nametag from kindergarden ( I refer to it periodically to reconfirm my identity in society ;O)

Chris,<br><br>Thanks for the tip, I just checked it out. I have some sort of knife, however small, in every PSK and pouch (I’m at a serious disadvantage facing metal detectors) and have often felt silly for not having some sort of sharpener as well. A the diamond plates look as close to ideal as it’s going to get.<br><br>I remember seeing a page somewhere on modifying a Leatherman Wave so that the diamond “file” is removable, and hence can be used to sharpen at least the non-serrated blade. Seems like a good idea, but too much work for me right now. I’ve also wondered about full-tang removable scale designs ( like the Buck Intrepid, just as an example). I’m surprised some maker hasn’t incorporated a diamond “stone” into the inner side of one of the removable scales- seems like a natural.<br><br>I’ve dealt very satisfactorily with Ragweed Forge before. Aside from the knives (I have a bone to pick about the authenticity of their “trade knives”, but it doesn’t relate to quality), it’s amazingly hard to find a good, bronze, penannular brooch these days- all you can find are little,silver ones that are useless for holding up enough plaid to sleep in. And we call ourselves advanced.<br>